Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey there,

I`m building a rear steer diff for my zook using a Hilux front diff. I`ve stripped it all down and starting to build it up now, putting on the 6 shooter kit and 30 spline Longs.
When we did the stub axle flanges up on the wheel side of the knuckle, which compresses the axle, Now the axle wont turn easy when turning the pinion. Ive machined out a fair bit inside the bell but how much is really required ?

It started like any other front diff, then we cut all the mounts off with the oxy
Then grinded and linisher to smooth it all off
We cut the rear cover [hat] off the rotated it

Then cut into the knuckle welds down to the Bell tubes
Set the pinion angle to 15*, same as the front
Used the oxy to heat the axle tubes so I could rotated the Knuckle Bells, then triple weld at the new angle

I had to remove the 4 centre studs, 2 top & 2 bottom. Switching the long stud for the short studs . Now they fit the third member, plus a bit of redrill the open up two other holes that were 1/2 a mm out of alignment
Applied some gasket sealant and dropped the diff back in place
Started with the knuckles, poly seals, and rock rings

Packed some HT grease in
Pushed the CV onto the axle and into the tube
Anyway, now that we`ve got the stub axle going on but it seems to be about 1mm or 2mm away from closing up properly and when we tighten the bolts down, its impossible to turn the axle. What else need to be done ?

Sounds like ur axles are too long or the splines too short.

What sort of locker are you using? Thrust block in there?

I bought a better die grinder, removed a bit more material. Cv fits good now.

Ya went to a lot of trouble with that diff and ya didn't even shave it.......?????

did you check the hosuing for straight after all that welding?

He hasnt done any welding on it that would make it bend.

Bentzook wrote:I bought a better die grinder, removed a bit more material. Cv fits good now.

IMG_0386a.jpg

Iv never had to remove any metal when fitting longfields???? if you have there something up... longfields should fit in the knuckles without doing what you did.... ???

Id be looking at the axle fitment into the diff like Benny said... what locker you using??? i fitted a set of 30 splines in my truck for TTC this yr without any issues....

Some earlier housings had thicker knuckle balls. The longfeild website states that you 'may' need to grind them to suit.

Had this problem it will be the inner axles that are to long by about 3mm cut of the small taper of the end of the inner axles then grind a new one all fixed Bobbys measurements arnt that good sometimes

Thanks guys, I actually did cut a few mm off the axle with the ultra fine cutting disc. I`m using a Detroit Locker which came out of the rear diff I was using before. I swapped the standard Cv`s and axle and they go straight in without any problems. The Longfield Cv`s are a bit bigger, these early model housings are thicker than newer models, yes, so a bit of grinding is required.
The welding on the tube was done in sections and 1/2 an hour between welds, so that too much heat didnt buildup, but all tube and knuckles are straight.
Shaving the diff ? Why bother, cut and all that effort. No I can`t see the benefit, but when I`m stuck on it at TT2012, you can heckle me then

An inch off the diff = 2 inches in tyre size. Well worth it I think.

Willy Hilux wrote:An inch off the diff = 2 inches in tyre size. Well worth it I think.

X2

Jason

Z()LTAN wrote:He hasnt done any welding on it that would make it bend.

your not serious are you????

uninformed wrote:

Z()LTAN wrote:He hasnt done any welding on it that would make it bend.

your not serious are you????

ok? what welds then?

Nothing is bent or out of shape,
Installed the IFS hub kit, Bolted it all back together, Creeper flanges, ARP hub stud kit,

Bolted the brakes back on
Now to do the other side

delete the bit about cutting off your axle, according to locktup website, it will void any warranty

Z()LTAN wrote:

uninformed wrote:

Z()LTAN wrote:He hasnt done any welding on it that would make it bend.

your not serious are you????

ok? what welds then?

looking at the oxy work and any of the welds, espeically the diff hat. As an example the same size rover housing will move with just a simple difflock actuator block welded to the long side tube near the diff.... I would like to see how it came out with a test 3rd, puks and a straight 1 piece shaft.

You can put alot of heat into diff housings aslong as its done properly.

Radial welds on the knuckle will not bend an axle. Neither will oxying off brackets. Assuming there was no stored tension.

Z()LTAN wrote:You can put alot of heat into diff housings aslong as its done properly.

Radial welds on the knuckle will not bend an axle. Neither will oxying off brackets. Assuming there was no stored tension.

no worries, would they stress relieve them in production or just jig build them? I certainly wouldnt trust not checking it. The one housing I laminated etc needed pressing back. I have also seen a suspension bracket oxy'd off a chassis near a body outrigger, this intern made the doors move.

the other side
almost ready to go
all done

Would be a better idea to run the arms the other way so nothing can get hit. ( above the center) Just a thought.

I did see a setup like that so its an option I guess, depends where I put the ram. Was also considering dual calipers on each side as well, the knuckle allows for it.

the knuckle allows for dual calipers, so thats what I did. Duals on each side.

why would you want dual calipers? singles pull up every car i have built fine

seems like all you would be doin is making yourself use a bigger master cylinder to pump more fluid