Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys,

A mate and I have just bought an 86 RR classic with the intention of building it for events like TTC and some good old social crawling. It currently sports the following
*Mild worked p76 4.4 ltr with zfhp22 auto and lt230 transfer
Front and rear arb 24 spline airlockers
*Front and rear 24 spline maxi drive axles
*Diff centres thrust pined, 3.54 ratio
*Tailshafts are custom heavy duty Hardy Spicer jobbies with wide angled flanges
*35in claws
*Mild worked 4.4 ltr out of a p76 with zfhp22 auto and lt230 transfer
*CCDA spec internal cage and racing harnesses.
*extra cab chop (done quite well)

Suspension is radius arm front and custom version of the Rover a-frame rear. We are thinking of retaining the a-frame rear as it seems to work well, but replace the front with a 3 link and panhard to match the performance of the rear (front needs to be moved forward anyway). Any knowledgeable opinions here would be appreciated.

Does anybody know who still does rear disconnects for the LT230. I have read Sam O's pirate tech thread on it, but I thought there may be a commercial version since then.

The biggest unknown is the diff/axles setup. It seems that all the Kool Kidz are running 40" stickys these days, so we'll aim for 39 to 42's. The question is what options will handle this. I understand the Maxidrive gear is OK for up to 37's but is still an 8" diff and its weakness will always be the R+P?

I have researched the forum a bit which shows i shoudl decide between the following.

1) GU front and 80s rear - correct offset, GU front can stay stock, Longfield inners and outers on rear. Is there are 4.6 version of the 80series to match the GU? Weak GU CV's with no aftermarket Cromo options? Would like a GU rear, but is the offset difference too much?

2) Toyota 3RD member with Rovertracks axles - dont know much about this setup. Seems to be OK for 37's but will it be significantly stronger than my current Maxidrive/ARB setup

3)Keep current setup and settle for 37's. Should I then need to change R+P ratios (currently 3.54:1) or get reduction gears for transfer to gear it low enough for crawling?

4)60series - correct offset but too narrow. ( I dont have the fab skillz to do custom length tubes and axles). Will still need cromo axles etc but are the diff gears more robust than the 80series and hilux options? Does it have a high pinion front? Will need to to disk brake conversion aswell.

5) custom Dana60s f + r - Too expensive, but you know what they say about doing it properly the first time.....

Additionally, are there drive flange options for the front of the 60 series and Patrol options above, to eliminate free wheeling hub failure.

Any advice appreciated - I know this has been kind of covered in various other threads, but was after some up to date advice on my specific situation. The other threads seemed to relate to weekend warriors on 37's.

I know there are alot of questions but thanks heaps!

alex.

hhmmm - 2 motors i presume that was a double post
is the p76 injected? if not, i would, to save carby issues on crazy slopes or gas inject it

make sure u have a decent cooler for the ZF, not the crappy toilet cleaner that they usually have

get mogs and be done with it, cheaper then built axles from the states (if u dont want to fork out for them or bubs housing or spiders, etc) , dont need reduction gears really, but a bit of mucking around to fit them, i wouldnt go rovertracks or 80 series or pootrol or 60 series with 40's, unless u dont want to be able to drive it hard, if your going to run sticky 40's, etc ok for 37's

airshocks or coilovers, rid the coils and shocks, lengthen the a frame (if u want to keep it) or go 4 link, if u wanna go the tuff truck route

mick garner MAY be able to get made disconnects for the LT for you

if u stay with 37's 49% LT gears and it will crawl well enough


my 2 cents worth..................

I agree Mogs are the best value for money options.

Thanks Guys,

Fuel injection is already on the to do list.

Maybe too many clearance issues with the mogs up front. I'd like to keep it as compact and low as possible. However I agree with the value for money. Something to think about anyway.

first thing i would do is sell the current diffs (or the whole car) and start again with more money in your pockets to buy whats needed (some sort of portal diff) what are the portals that bolt to the rover diffs like? i seem to recall someone used to make them, might be enough to beef up what you already have to whats needed. and your getting the correct gearing etc. otherwise maybe adapt some portals from something onto the rover diffs?

Buy my buggy & save yourself $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ I'm not joking, just add it all up !!!!



Jeff

is that the disco on mogs? if so i will second that.
will save a lot of money buying already done, what were you asking for it?

Mogs will give you about 8 inches of lift, The only clearance issue i found was the uper link on the front

440 BB wrote:first thing i would do is sell the current diffs (or the whole car) and start again with more money in your pockets to buy whats needed (some sort of portal diff) what are the portals that bolt to the rover diffs like? i seem to recall someone used to make them, might be enough to beef up what you already have to whats needed. and your getting the correct gearing etc. otherwise maybe adapt some portals from something onto the rover diffs?

maxidrive used to make them, but 5 odd years ago they were $10-12k if i remember correctly and more or less impossible to get your hands on now, Tibus (Killeraxles) makes them but i would imagine they would be at least in the $15k mark, thats why dirty old 404's are top shelf for $4kish and stronger too. portal diffs aren't 'needed' but they are pretty much the cheapest semi bullet proof solution to running 40"+ tyres and driving cool shiat, plus the added bonus of the gearing they give u.

STIKA wrote:Mogs will give you about 8 inches of lift, The only clearance issue i found was the uper link on the front

I dont suppose you have any photos of your front link setup and clearance Brett.

Also did you convert yours to disk brake, and if so what was involved/how much?

I do have a disk brake set up, it wasnt that cheap.

I can't remeber what the hub were but it $800 to get the splines on the hubs + 4 x GQ front rotors and 4 x GQ rear calipers.

I am running a 3 link in the front with not much up travel, and the motor has been moved to the driver side of the vehicle