Outer Limits 4x4 Board

toughnut wrote:Mate a mist is always going to be better than a gut load of water. You'll never get full coverage unless you have a heap of nozzles. Just so you know. This will do SFA to your EGT's.
EGT's are fine, it's just that the engine now makes more heat at WOT than the surface area of a 75series radiator allows to get rid of with just normal air cooling.

Just your water temp. If you have an oil cooler mounted in the same place then this will help oil temps too. No need for ice water as its the evaporation that aids the cooling. That is why a mist is better than a spray.
That's what i thought, but i guess i was just wondering if a mist is even going to have time to really wet up the radiator at speed or just get sucked past by the airflow before it can get on to the rad and then evaporate.

So basically get some mist nozzles from a hardware/gardening store and set it up so you get the best coverage. Remember that the spray area of each nozzle will be reduces considerably at speed. Don't go overboard with the amount of nozzles either as you'll have to carry more water for each extra nozzle you have installed.
How do you reckon you'd go mating the garden stuff to the normal washer bottle hose? Any idea if it's all been done before with any level of success?

Also you should conect it to a thermostat so that you don't have to be concious of it while driving at speed.
Wayyyy too hard. temporary booty fab remember
It will just turn on atomatically if your water temps get to a certain level....... I have a brand new thermostate switch sitting here in a box that you can use for the comp if you want.
We'll se how we go, i got a Navi bitch to keep an eye on that sort of thing though.

Z()LTAN wrote:engine or intercooler rad?

Z()LTAN wrote:Do u think there is a reason why you don't ever hear of someone using a mist setup on an engine rad?

Dont bandaid the problem, look at increasing airflow through the radiator or decreasing your egts with more boost or water/meth fumigation.

toughnut wrote:On my GU patrol I just ran the heater lines to the second radiator on the tray. This was sufficient for my engine but not sure about yours.

I have a davies craig electric water pump and thermostat sitting here at home if you need them. The water pump is perfect for this application and running it with the thermostat would be the preferred option as running your engine too cool will do just as much damage as running it too hot.

Oh and if you run the second radiator on the tray then block the radiator overflow on your front radiator and only run one on the rear radiator. Otherwise all your water from the rear radiator will flow out of the front overflow.

rockcrawler31 wrote: Thanks guys. I might take you up on that pump offer steve. Only thing is that we'll have to figure out how to go from heater hose size up to standard radiator hose size then back again. I've got a little bosch water pump running my intercooler now and it's perfect for the job, it runs 3/4 inch hose in and out from my intercooler barrel, but even if i used that then any second hand radiator i get is still likely to be larger hoses anyway so the problem is still there.
It wasn't a problem for me as it is not a high volume line. From memory the pump that I have here has 3/4 inch fittings anyway. Just get a couple of adaptors from a plumbing supply or hardware shop.

I was wondering about your thermostat steve, since the engine already has one in it and blocks flow the the engine if it's not warm enough anyways surely a second thermostat in the heater line would be redundant, and secondly, since the heater line wouldn't get any flow with the thermostat closed chances are it would never actually open right? Just my first thoughts.
Its a thermo switch rather than a thermostat. Just like you have for thermo fans. It won't stop the water flowing completely to the second radiator, its connected to the pump and will switch it on when needed. That way you won't get the full effect of the second radiator until you really need it and if you're running on a cold morning like the guys do in comps like outback challenge then you need this so your engine gets a chance to warm up properly before flogging it down a track.

I'm wondering if the best place for this second rad is under my tray with a thermofan? I don't have the room on top of the main hoop because it will foul my toolbox, so maybe under the tray with a sheetmetal shield to stop rocks and mud getting thrown into it? or is that just going to stifle it's effectiveness even with a fan?
Under the tray would be fine. You just need to have a think about how to best mount it and protect it. If you do this I'd suggest that you use an inline tap on both the intake and return hoses so if you do hole the second radiator you can just turn the taps off and not lose the function of your main cooling system.

To be honest a 10* drop would do it. I've seen temps up to 110* but i'm also pretty vigilant so i've always backed off when it's got that high so i guess it would probably go higher if i let it. Normal operating temps are 90* odd degrees anyway so just having 10 degrees up my sleeve would probably give me the time i need to get to places where i'm backing off anyway.

V.W.Dave wrote:The shroud from memory is fine. He has 2 mid size spottier in front but the are a long way in front. He also has the back of his bonnet lifted to let heat out. It's simply a big heavy rig with big tyres that gets pushed a little harder then the current cooling system can handle.

shakes wrote:Just as a test drop the bonnet back down... Chances are it's working to let the air flow flow through. But see if the extra force of air all following the same path creates that last little "vacuum" it needs to keep it cool. Very unlikely to work but it will only cost you your time.