Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Guys,
My 60 has a bit of a habit of snapping the rear axle studs.
That in itself isn't really a huge problem, They are quite easy to replace.

The issue is that I buy the studs from the local bolt shop as they are high tensile. But I can't find anywhere that sells just the cone washer. The cheapest that I can find are the entire axle stud kit (1 X axle stud, 1 X washer and 1 X cone washer sold in one pack) for $3.41 from Repco. I find it a waste since the only thing I want from the kit is the cone washer.

So, question is, does anyone know where I can buy just the cone washers alone.


Cheers
Dan

hi mate. there must be a reason why it snaps them.. either alot of torque or bent housing or axle can also do it.. toyota is the best place to find the cone washers. ive given up on the 8mm stud idea. going in the direction of 10mm hex bolts with nordlock washers. could be a solution to breaking all the time.. i got all bolts nordlock washers drill bit and 2 taps to convert them and it cost me about $35 from conventry fastners

Loose wheel bearings will also cause the studs (and axle) to fatigue leading to failure. Can't help with a source for washers though. I got a good deal on the stud/washer set from ruffy @ rally offroad in Geelong, vic.

The main reason I snap the studs is because I run a 6.5 Chev in it.
And I am not light on the loud pedal.
I perfer not to up grade to the 10mm studs as I can fix the studs easily on the side of the road with a cordless drill and easy outs. I always carry spare studs with me and I normally don't even lose much diff oil and if I upgrade I risk the studs staying put, but then whatever breaks moves into the diff....Much harder, and more expensive to fix.
Toyota want $7 a cone washer, the best price I can find is ebay at $2 a cone washer, I just reckon there has got to be some where cheaper to buy them from.

Upgrading to 10mm dowells and studs gives you approx 50% more material in each stud, I would guess the torque required te shear them would be a hell of a lot higher. Upgrade to 10mm socket head cap screws with 10mm cone washers and flat washers increases the tensile strength even more as cap screws have the highest tensile strength

LOCKTUP sell cone washers, dont know the price, but worth the call!!
great service!!

locktup sell an ARP stud kit for them. That coupled with 10mm dowels is plenty strong. holds up to my 40" sticky tyres well

Are you replacing the dowels as well? Without the dowels the studs will shear very easily.

Might be worth a try to change to cap screws, I now run 8mm cap screws with the cone washers, they can be torqued higher than the stock studs. Just make sure you use anti seize or they are a PITA to remove.

yeah, I am replacing the dowels at the same time as the studs.

Cap screws? you mean just normal bolts?


Thanks for your help so far guys.

No, capscrews are different

http://www.boltsplus.com/PartImages/5570/5570.JPG

hulsty wrote:No, capscrews are different

http://www.boltsplus.com/PartImages/5570/5570.JPG

Got you now.....

I'll give them a try next time I need to replace them.

Still, the best price I have found for the cone washers is $2 each.

I still reckon that's a bit too much........But if thats the price then thats what I have to pay.

the amount of money u spend replacing studs and cone washers wouldnt u be better off going to socket head bolts... if it does put strain on the diff the change will be minimal. aslong as youve got a well setup diff i suppose.

10.9 or 12 bolts will increase the strength ALOT. not all cap screws are inhex head.

as the studs break, replace them with bolts... very dodgey and will prolly break bolts but youll eventually get them all to a higher tensile, higher torque and more strength

I'll have a good look at the hex bolts when I next need to replace the axle studs.
The diff was rebuilt only a few months ago.
It's a 4.11 geared center with air locker.

I've only snapped the axle studs once off road, was using one rear wheel to get me out of a hole while all other three wheels had either no traction or were in the air.
Normally I snap them on road, normally after I have given the cruiser a bootfull and launched it hard.

Z()LTAN wrote:locktup sell an ARP stud kit for them. That coupled with 10mm dowels is plenty strong. holds up to my 40" sticky tyres well

I'm all for this option. Already upgraded to the 10mm grade 12 cap head bolts and washers. But none of the after market axles come drilled to suit 10mm so I'm going to lifetime guarantee arp studs

Just out of curiosity do you break axles too or just sheer axle studs?

If you change to high tensile bolts, check that the bolt heads won't protruded past the outer diameter of the hub, bit hard to get wheels on and off with bolt heads on the way.

Giggles83 wrote:

Z()LTAN wrote:locktup sell an ARP stud kit for them. That coupled with 10mm dowels is plenty strong. holds up to my 40" sticky tyres well

I'm all for this option. Already upgraded to the 10mm grade 12 cap head bolts and washers. But none of the after market axles come drilled to suit 10mm so I'm going to lifetime guarantee arp studs

Just out of curiosity do you break axles too or just sheer axle studs?

Just sheer studs.


The studs are the weak link in the driveline.
As I said. Easier, and cheaper to replace the axle studs than any other part of the diff.

Thats my theory anyway.