Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok so the time has come that I have decided to turbo my 105 series, 1FZFE I want anyones input who has built up the 1fzfe and more specific the coil packed model and its ECU usability!
I have spent last few weeks reading build ups and sourcing information from various companies that build kits for the 1fzfe and still have questions! I originally thought the ease of a turbo kit would be the go but after diving deeper into it I'd now rather set up my own turbo set up!

There isn't a tight budget as I want it to be set up right and still be a reliable tourer but at the same time I don't want to spend money on unnecessary things!
The idea is to set up the turbo on my current stock engine (low km 100,000km) and have the option for producing more power one day as I have a spare 1FZFE in the garage that I plan to slowly rebuild with forged internals and little head work (mainly for flow)

Here is what I think I need for a reliable set up running boost around the 6-10ps! Correct me if wrong and add extras if you feel i need them, I have a couple of questions reguarding a couple of items (Ill put them last)

I have sourced some prices also so I know what I'm up against

Turbo- garrett 35/40 internally gated with T3 flange $1900
Intercooler- PWR water to air kit including barrel 5"x8", bosch water pump, fan, radiator $1600 (good for 450hp or upgrade barrel to 5"x10" for 600hp)
Fuel regulator-Turbo smart $??
New fuel pump- Bosch $500 (either in tank or surge tank set up) advice please? would standard pump be fine to get the flow to the surge tank then run the bosch to engine to keep up with the duties?? rather steer clear form surge tank as i need to find room for it!
Manifold- Cast Treadstone performance manifold (are there any other cast ones available or ones without the external gated spot) can just blank it off! ($800)
Complete new exhaust and dump pipe-(thinking around the $1200)
Piping, silicon joints hose clamps, plumb in oil return line for turbo etc
Couple of gauges to keep eye on things ($400)
ECU-( piggy back or complete computer, do the piggy back ones do the job fine or do i need a complete new computer and do I loose anything buy doing this like cold start etc?)-($1400)??
Tune-($1200)
Injectors--(getting mixed opinions on this?)
Airbox- custom alloy one mainly because the 100s air box is shi^ and doesn't seal around the lid and I don't think the turbo would enjoy water splattered over its turbine fins
XHeavy duty clutch- have one in atm but 40,000km old so see how it holds up!

any input would be welcome but my main concern is the ECU/computer set up, I really have no ida how these operate and weather a piggy back system is sufficient enough or do I need to spend big $$ on a complete new fully re programable unit

The fuel system I have been given mixed opinions about, some saying that the pump and injectors will keep up but it seems maybe they are working at the top end of there duty cycle so I figure I'll definitely upgrade the fuel pump.... just not sure which route to go down (in tank or surge) but what about the injectors are they able to perform reliably if cleaned and flow tested them?


Cam

There are heaps of these builds on 80 series on ih8mud worth a search. Here is one

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/ ... build.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

CHeers mate good info there for manifold choices. Still getting mixed ideas about fuel management. THink I'll try to source better injectors straight up.

i have turboed my coil pack 1fz

The T3 garret turbos of the xr6 are perfect,but the treadstone performance manifold has a T4 flange which means you need a t3-t4 adapter which are a PITA as ive experienced.
Go with a low mount manifold from safari or AXT

Fuel managment forget a piggy back and get a complete aftermarket ECU if you want to do it right
then enjoy all the power

Thanks mate I just found that out today also about the flange, I have also found out the internal wastegate turbos are a bit longer and the dump pipe might interfere with the firewall with a high mount.

I have now considered the low mount as the better option.
I found turboglide have one but would be interested pricing up axt or safari manifolds too (are they possibly just turboglide ones?). I have a feeling axt and safari come as the kit and they don't sell them unless with the kit. Any ideas?

http://www.turboglide.com.au/index.cfm? ... duct_ID=85" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Nothing wrong with the high mount setups. But! You must use heat shielding thoroughly around all the cables and everything else on that side of the engine bay.
These engines run dam hot standard and even hotter with a turbo.
I have always used turbonetics setups on the ones I have done as their build quality is just so good.

But, things I would point out to you.

Barrel coolers - no good.
35/40R internally gated - must get the wastegate ported and larger swing valve to stop the boost creeping.
Fuel Pump- run the standard pump into a surge tank and a bosch 044 from there to feed the engine.
Injectors - staged Secondary injectors are trumps in this setup to retain good fuel economy at cruise and light load.
ECU - Unichip or other piggyback will do fine, but your price is a bit shy of one installed (factor about $1800-1900 as a fitted/tuned price)

Below is a setup I done many many years ago. Made 220kw at the wheels with about 9psi of boost. These pics are before aux injectors and other stuff was fitted.
It runs front mount, turbonetic turbo and manifold, turbosmart external wastegate, aux injectors + larger primary injectors, surge tank with 044, unichip, 3" exhaust + other tid bits and pieces.

Cheers mate some good pointers there. You cleared up a few issues.

Couple of Qs.

The barrel coolers, what's the reasoning for been no good, is there another water to air set up I should go for or am I not gaining any great benefit to worry about a water to air and just go with air to air.

The turbo set up, is this a option I could have done to the turbo upon purchasing or a modification I should read up about. is it worth running externally gated, I have no preference either way I just thought running internally gated would eliminate extra plumbing and clear more space.

Cam

Camos wrote:Cheers mate some good pointers there. You cleared up a few issues.

Couple of Qs.

The barrel coolers, what's the reasoning for been no good, is there another water to air set up I should go for or am I not gaining any great benefit to worry about a water to air and just go with air to air.

The turbo set up, is this a option I could have done to the turbo upon purchasing or a modification I should read up about. is it worth running externally gated, I have no preference either way I just thought running internally gated would eliminate extra plumbing and clear more space.

Cam

I was getting boost spike with the STD xr6 internal waste gate and switched to a external

My honest opinoin on the barrel coolers is they dont have enough internal surface area to cool properly.
The turbulator design is not great, and to fit one with enough cooling capacity it would have to be huge.

On a low boost setup, especially on a petrol the barrel will probably be ok. But there is much better options available.

I would recommend just an air/air for this setup. Its simpler and it will work even if you use a cheap cooler.

As for the turbo. External gate is one option.
Second option is to purchase a large swing valve and die grind the wastegate port out to match it.
Safari/Airpower Systems do a swing valve upgrade
http://www.airpowersystems.com/falcon/swing_valve.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You can also use an exhaust valve out of a 350 chevy or similar size. Anything that just fits into the area you have to work with.

Below is some pics of an upgrade to the wastegate I do for Subaru turbo's that have the same issue. Standard the boost will creep from 12psi @ 3000rpm to 20+psi @ 7000rpm
With the modification I am able to run them @ 15psi till redline.

Old Size


New Size


Valve size difference



Stock Valve Closed


New Valve Closed

Old Exhaust valve ready to be cut off and used as swing valve.

Too easy mate looks easy enough to do, I'm guessing there is no set amount to port out? as much as possible providing I can get it sealed again with what ever I use as the new lid, and without making any wall thicknesses too thin.

cam