Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi All,

This is my first official post if you disregard the one in the members section. As I have already listed few problems that my 60 has over there. I was thinking about gear ratio reduction for larger tyres. Everyone keeps talking about reduction on the diffs. Can anyone tell me why not on the transfer case? It will put bit more stress on the diffs and drive shafts, but isn't it easier to do it on one spot like transfer case rather than on the diffs?

Back in the day Mark's made 42% and 68% reductions for the transfer case. Now they only make 55% which might not be enough. So diff gears my be a better ratio or you may need both.

I have 68% with an auto and 4.3 diffs.

I vote for transfer gears. Unless your running 36's or bigger you shouldn't need any reduction. I had 35s with no reduction for about 10 years and occasionally you need to slip the clutch a wee bit but no enough to spend $1200 to $1400 getting gears and a case rebuilt.

What tyre size are running? Do you run smaller road tyres?

Diff gears I think are cheaper than transfer gears in a cruiser.

I have 30 inch no name all terrains for now. It should be enough if I do 2 inch body lift and put 35 inch tyres with -44 offset rims. I don't expect rubbing, unless someone with more experience tells me otherwise!!! My suspension doesn't have that much travel anyway, hence the diff lockers. I taught about gear reduction as mentioned above, but as I'm being told, gearing can stay as it is for 35 inchers.

Try it out first, if you have a manual, it is very easy to get cheap reduction gears, fit the gears from auto gearbox transfercase, brings the low range gearing with 35''s back to as if you have 31''s, works great for me.

hulsty wrote:Try it out first, if you have a manual, it is very easy to get cheap reduction gears, fit the gears from auto gearbox transfercase, brings the low range gearing with 35''s back to as if you have 31''s, works great for me.

Thanks mate, that's good to know!!! how about high range, does auto transfer case affect that?

hi will stay the same
just low range will be lower
i run this transfer and 4.88 in diff
37s treps and it still crawls
and runs fine on road
cheers

High range is unchanged, suits me.

SCANAS wrote:spend $1200 to $1400 getting gears and a case rebuilt.

And the rest. Last time I looked, Marks wanted close to $1800 for gears alone, so rebuilding/installing is on top if you're not doing it yourself.

Ouch your right! I thought the gears where $800 ish but I just looked $1850 for gears and $350 for a rebuild bit so $2200 before labour...

Have a look at http://www.advanceadapters.com/categori ... uiser/148/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

They have four different options. The 4:1 gears also have a 10% reduction in high range, meaning you can run 35's and it's geared like stock. It's also the cheapest of the lot and is currently on special.

Having the gear reduction at the T/C puts more strain on the T/C output, drive shafts and pinion gears. The Cruiser drivetrain should handle it though.

I've personally done diffs first but the T/C will cop reduction gear also in a few months. I went this way as I wanted to install lockers and new bearings. New gear at the same time seemed logical.

I had 35's, 15x10's with the -44, 2" body, 2" spring and extended shackles and the fronts would touch on full compression but not enough to worry about.

Might have to drop the tyre size. or find a cheaper way. Can't justify $1500 for gear reduction only, for the car I paid $5000 for

ROAMER wrote:Might have to drop the tyre size. or find a cheaper way. Can't justify $1500 for gear reduction only, for the car I paid $5000 for

I just spent $5,500 on mods to a Lux I paid $1,100 for. Haha

When you consider it's less than a third of the purchase price to make your car twice as capable, I think it's all money well spent.

hulsty wrote:Try it out first, if you have a manual, it is very easy to get cheap reduction gears, fit the gears from auto gearbox transfercase, brings the low range gearing with 35''s back to as if you have 31''s, works great for me.

Not all the autos have transfer gears as low as yours hulsty..... I've actually checked a few (maybe half a dozen) and have only found one set as low as yours...

RED60 wrote:

hulsty wrote:Try it out first, if you have a manual, it is very easy to get cheap reduction gears, fit the gears from auto gearbox transfercase, brings the low range gearing with 35''s back to as if you have 31''s, works great for me.

Not all the autos have transfer gears as low as yours hulsty..... I've actually checked a few (maybe half a dozen) and have only found one set as low as yours...

I suspect only diesel autos had it, mine were from a HJ61, 88 model.

Mate I read through your members post and I'd have to say, get some 33"s and wheel with them for a while. I can't see 2"s of tyre being the deciding force that stops you when you've already got 2 lockers and a winch. The cruisers have a pretty good crawl ratio IMO and with 33's its still pretty good.

You won't need to worry about gearing with 35's. On road will be a bit sluggish. Off road will be fine, especially with a diesel. (if you have a diesel)

33's wil be fine all round. You could run two sets of tyres. Personally that's my preference as you can get a good road based tyre (AT, even quality MT) that wears well, quiet etc and really aggressive bias off road tyres in sizes that suit each application. Just a bigger out lay to begin with.

I will a stock case and stock diffs on 37inch boggers! Wasn't a power house but it worked! Tired old clapped out 3litre diesil 4 cyclinder too!

Before that I ran 34inch jungle Trekkers for years! Was perfect! Youll be fine up too 35s! Easy!

I'm leaning towards 33" given the amount of lift fot 35" as well that is required. Don't want to spend extra $2000 or so as well for a 2 " suspension lift.

ROAMER wrote:I'm leaning towards 33" given the amount of lift fot 35" as well that is required. Don't want to spend extra $2000 or so as well for a 2 " suspension lift.

Why do you need a 2" lift for 33s?
I had 34s (big 34s) with 25year old leaves. Worked great and factory gaurds on the front and the rear was trimmed on the door side.

WICKED wrote:

ROAMER wrote:I'm leaning towards 33" given the amount of lift fot 35" as well that is required. Don't want to spend extra $2000 or so as well for a 2 " suspension lift.

Why do you need a 2" lift for 33s?
I had 34s (big 34s) with 25year old leaves. Worked great and factory gaurds on the front and the rear was trimmed on the door side.

I meant the lift required for 35' , that's why I'm leaning towards 33'.

ROAMER wrote:

WICKED wrote:

ROAMER wrote:I'm leaning towards 33" given the amount of lift fot 35" as well that is required. Don't want to spend extra $2000 or so as well for a 2 " suspension lift.

Why do you need a 2" lift for 33s?
I had 34s (big 34s) with 25year old leaves. Worked great and factory gaurds on the front and the rear was trimmed on the door side.

I meant the lift required for 35' , that's why I'm leaning towards 33'.

My 34 jungle Trekker were bigger than 35 baja claws and bigger than 36 swampers.

Sure you a need lift?

WICKED wrote:

ROAMER wrote:

WICKED wrote:

ROAMER wrote:I'm leaning towards 33" given the amount of lift fot 35" as well that is required. Don't want to spend extra $2000 or so as well for a 2 " suspension lift.

Why do you need a 2" lift for 33s?
I had 34s (big 34s) with 25year old leaves. Worked great and factory gaurds on the front and the rear was trimmed on the door side.

I meant the lift required for 35' , that's why I'm leaning towards 33'.

My 34 jungle Trekker were bigger than 35 baja claws and bigger than 36 swampers.

Sure you a need lift?

I'm just judging based on what I read from other people's experiences with rubbing, full compression etc. never actually did any bigger tyre upgrade, so I don't know from first hand situation.

Test fit one dude. You might be surprised!

Benny this is a 60, not a 40. 35s on a 60 def needs some lift or a lot of grinding.

RAY185 wrote:Benny this is a 60, not a 40. 35s on a 60 def needs some lift or a lot of grinding.

Oh well I was talking about gearing :s


Ummmm........... Ignore me on lift thenzzzzz...... Lol