Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey fellas, i know plenty of people get away with this on their trail rigs but what about a rig that may see some high speed work?

u will have no dramas as long as they are the same angle and are within there working angle

yeh doesnt matter

just need to make sure the flanges are in the same plane while suspension is at rest and the universal joints will cancel each other out.

Or if you can't get the above alignment sorted. A DC or CV joint on each end of the shaft is the magic bullet.

I could run a clearanced 60s DC at the transfer end?

Z()LTAN wrote:I could run a clearanced 60s DC at the transfer end?

You either need to run them both ends or keep the end that has a single joint running close to perfectly straight.

Z()LTAN wrote:I could run a clearanced 60s DC at the transfer end?

if you did this, you would ned the uni at the diff to have 0degre angle to eliminate vibrations. A DC is a constant velocity joint, it is self balancing, this also means that a uni at the other end of the shaft has nothing to balance it out as unis balance each other in pairs by being in phase. A drive shaft with a DC one end and single uni the other will vibrate and wear joints quicker unless the single uni is running zero angle

(read "drive shaft tech" on Pirate)

As long as you are within the unis limits, your unis dont know the t/case output and diff pinion are offset to the side anymore than they know they are offset vertically.
If your drivetrain (engine/transmision/Tcase) is running parallel in the chassis, you will have both Tcase and diff pinion flange parallel automatically, so you will just need to set diff pinion angle (up and down) as per normal

Certainly not ideal & personally I would be correcting as soon as finances would allow as it will reduce it's life regardless.
What 80 Delerious said is spot on but I would not have it as a permanent set-up



brooksy

brooksy wrote:Certainly not ideal & personally I would be correcting as soon as finances would allow as it will reduce it's life regardless.
What 80 Delerious said is spot on but I would not have it as a permanent set-up



brooksy

how does it reduce its life any more then a regular drive shaft (angles being equal)? the drive shaft dosnt know whether is it sideways, up, down, left or right?

redzook wrote:

brooksy wrote:Certainly not ideal & personally I would be correcting as soon as finances would allow as it will reduce it's life regardless.
What 80 Delerious said is spot on but I would not have it as a permanent set-up



brooksy

how does it reduce its life any more then a regular drive shaft (angles being equal)? the drive shaft dosnt know whether is it sideways, up, down, left or right?

As long as the total angle (left/right + up down) is within the working angle I don't think the uni is going to give a shit.

Chances are with big flex that it won't be within its working angle at full flex though. You would have more chance of keeping it in its working angle if it is aligned front to back.


I think Zoltan is building a comp rig with coilovers? so it will probably have alot of flex?

Atlas = centered output

I kno Evan, i will go an atlas once i start popping in/out shafts

roger that!!

Flex angle is the exact reason.



brooksy

sounds like he has a centered rear diff so flex isnt going to do much, and generally if your flexing your car your not going at 100km/h your goin under 5km/h so as long as they are not goin past there limits you will be fine

of course if they bind they are goin to wear/break

i ran a centered rear diff with offset tcase in 2 different cars as daily drivers for well over 4 years without a single failure with upto 37" tires and one of those cars was a SWB sierra so a failry short driveshaft

so from my personal experience you will have no dramas