Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys i've got a 91 hzj75 with 340 on the clock and never rebuilt and it's been cooked at least once by me and I'm playing wih the idea of fitting a turbo I havn't done a compression test or a oil sample so am I just asking for trouble fitting a turbo To a motor with high Kay's also I don't want to do any work to it before hand also I would only run 10 pound or less

i did it to a ex miners rig with over 400 on the clock and it had been cooked at least ounce that the old owner new of and it ran 12psi without a drahma just long as you put the right amount of fuel into it and dont run to hot with exhoust temps it should be fine .
that is just my expereince any way i could have just been lucky.

Cheers for that mate i've read a few things like the the main things seems to Be get a good EGT guage and watch it like a hawk and maintance but some people have said I'm Made and you didn't touch any of the internals of the engine

didnt even drop the sump to fit oil return we used the spike that they use to punch the hole for the safari turbo kits and tapped the thread into it ..was a budget build we borrowed a egt gauge and boost gauge to tune it then drove it and that car now has over 600 000ks on it and is still running strong ..the guy that owns it now uses it to tow a 4 horse float with no probs so it is a freak of a car ..

Turboing 1hz is a bit of a gamble.
I would say do a compression test, leak down test and get an oil sample tested. This will let you know what state your engine is in.
When you turbo it, fit an EGT gauge in the manifold, pre-turbo, tune it and drive it so EGTs stay below 650degrees C.
Keep boost mild and use the biggest front mount intercooler you can fit.
Running too much fuel WILL kill it.

Wouldn't using a front mount intercooler restrict the air flow through the normal radiator and risk cooking it that way

Not if the intercooler is fitted properly and your radiator and cooling system are all working normally.

Jesus mate I'm shuddering right now, have a read of my thread I put on a couple of weeks ago- injector pump causing overheating. Make sure your fuel system is tip top b4 turboing. I've been chasing temp and fuel issues since January when I turboed my 330k 1hz, all up for what I've spent I could've safely put a 1HDTor possibly a FTE in for same coin. :-( Not knocking 1HZ's at all but just a heads up. Has the pump been done up?

Morning Lads,

What sort of Egt's you lads running on flat hiway at 100?? 280-300

I got fitted a denco kit. Labouring the piss out of it on big big hills e.g. 5th at 60km/hr, highest we could get was 525. Normal harder driving 300-400. Am told these figures are pretty good? Car drives very well. 04 105 with 152 000 kms. Turbo running standard deco boost which i am told is 8-10lb - Fitting gauge this arv.

So many mixed reports as to the 'Considered max temp' 550 or 650 or ororororororrororo ??????????? Thoughts from the 1hz guru's. I want this thing to last.

Is your thermo probe in the manifold or in the exhaust?

If in the manifold, that should be ok.

Readings from after the turbo are too unreliable

Pretty sure its at the top of the dump pipe where denco have the pre threaded/allocated spot for it. I would find it hard to fathom why this would be accurate ????

A lot of thermal energy is absorbed by the turbo, its been proven the temps measured in the dump pipe can be 200degC (or more) less than what is measured in the manifold pre-turbo at any given moment. There is no reliable rule of thumb on what the difference will be, you can only guess.

Turboing the 1HZ (particularly in 105series) is a bit of a gamble, get your EGTs 200degC too high, and you're gambling on a time bomb, egts measured in the dump pipe are really increasing that gamble.

Dave, putting a FMIC infront of the rad in a 100 series or 80 series might be ok but in a 75 it's a real bad idea. I'm not completely sold on my W2A cooler but i know for a fact that putting something in front of the already small surface area of a 75 rad is bad juju.

When i took the air conditioning radiator off my truck it didn't completely sort the cooling on the truck but it was a DEFINATE measurable increase in cooling capacity and more importantly a decrease in time taken to come back down after a hard WOT pull.

for the OP - You are more than likely going to be ok by turboing it but there's a few things to remember.

1. The boost alone won't kill the engine. In fact you could run any amount of positive pressure you like in the intake manifold and it won't kill it. Unfortunately, boost is totally linked to fuelling levels in a diesel. You can't have one without the other. which leads to point 2
2. As Dave mentioned you MUST put a EGT guage PRE_TURBO. You will live and die by that guage. It will tell you more about what is going on in your engine than ANY other guage or diagnostic tool.
3. Your cooling system is marginal from factory. The frontal surface area is limited by the bodywork design. It MUST be in tip top nick and it'll probably still get warm on long hill climbs.
4. Fit the turbo and drive it around a bit without touching the fuel just to get a bit of a baseline feel for how much of a difference it is
5. Then add more fuelling a tiny bit at a time until you are happy with the added amount of boost and EGT heat.

You are more than likely to get a bit of black sooting when you take off and off boost. But if you are getting black soot while cruising and on boost then you are definately over fueling. Even a little bit of boost and fueling is going to be better than stock, so for an older engine and a daily car i'd run no more than 6-7lb and don't allow EGTs to get over 600 pre-turbo

Mine runs 15lb all day long but I accept that it's here for a good time not a long time. I also have to actually DRIVE the thing instead of just jump in, cruise and forget. I watch that EGT, boost and water guage like a hawk and i'm constantly balancing throttle/heat/and road speed. It gets very tiring.

Hope this helps

Some good info. Currently mine the way its tuned (Denco running standard 8-9lb boost) is running maybe 300 on the hiway and am aiming to keep it bellow 500. I am told deco warranty card says something about 2 minutes at 600 max or something similar? Again this is dump pipe egt. General driving is pulling 200-400. Seems to ave plenty of pull and dark all smoke. Very happy with it (even though ill be selling soon). Random toy project to make some beer money Surely at a conservative tune these things will last forever i have many stories along these lines. Seems just the over fuel laden boys that go tick tick boom

Whats bad about overfuelling? Surely its better than underfuelling, as far as EGT's are concerned?

Baja Burley wrote:Whats bad about overfuelling? Surely its better than underfuelling, as far as EGT's are concerned?

Forget what you know about petrol engines.

In a diesel, power output is determined by the amount of fuel pumped in (within limits), air is un-governed. More fuel burnt equals more heat produced, excess fuel equals excess, un-productive heat is produced. Un-controlled, it equals dead 1hzzzzz. In situations where the engine is under load, full throttle, ie smoked diesel climbing a hill, combustion temperatures can rocket to the point that damage is done.