Outer Limits 4x4 Board

On current build I am struggling for room to mount Fox bumps on the front. The solution I have come up with is mounting the cans inside the coilover tower & have the bump pad roughly 50mm behind top bush on the radius arm. What is opinions about loading bushes ??
The build is the Lux winch truck I am doing with custom bisalloy RA's. Using GU front bushes & 80 series rear bush.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 3&start=90" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



brooksy

What about mounting them on the inside of your chassis rails? I'm going to look at doing this on my truck because of the suspension setup that I'm going to run. I'm going to recess them into the chassis rails like I've done on the rear.

I don't know the technical reasons for not doing what you're suggesting but I know that if you're using bushes it isn't recommended because it loads up your bushes and not only flogs them out earlier but creates variations in your steering geometry when hitting the bumps that may make your truck more unstable than it already is.

Can't mount inside of chassis rails as IronJock centre & 24V alternator is the issue on drivers side. Recessing into chassis won't work either unfortunately
If having to replace bushes after each season is the downside, it may have to be the sacrifice. Steering & Geometry shouldn't come into play as bumps will be so close to front upper mount I would have thought



brooksy

I was being lazy before but I've just had a look at your setup. I see what you mean about space. The lower radius bush will be behind the bump stop so you shouldn't get too much deflection or rotation of the diff if you land on the stops. Like I said though. I'm not an engineer. Just working through it in my head.

In the You tube video ive posted below you will see a Hilux with what looks like what your after

Have a look around the 7 mins into the vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aye0Ch19fZY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

On initial thoughts I would think you will cause premature wear of the RA bushes, especially the front two.

Cheers

Cool vid.....

Always going to be the case with premature wear on front bushes due to extra stresses but I am sure they will last within the maintenance schedule that would be in place (change bushes every season).



brooksy

Can you box the top of the radius arm mounts and bounce the bumps of them then the cans can be mounted behind the coil over and on the out side of the rail.I have been thinking of putting my bumps on top of my sway bars and running 1 1/2 sway bar links with 7/8 heims that way I don't need I large pad for the diff to roll on as the bumps will only be getting vertical load.
Always hard in the front you should of just gone leaves .

Hahahahaaaa funny bastard Garth !!
Leaves are too hardcore ....
But yeah, was originally thinking flush with top of arms & box in a pad slightly to the inside of arm. This placement has the bump hitting in between the 2 front bushes & should clear coilover at full droop with mounting just behind but inside tower bracket.
I'll get Twisty to post a couple pics to show better.



brooksy

I could not think of good way to describe what i was thinking ... remembered reading about Light racings "jounce shocks"

http://www.lightracing.com/images/stori ... heeler.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Using the bump can remote and using a lever ... ? may not suit your needs but might give you some idea's ..

Yeah the LR's are nice & I have dealt directly with them over the years with good service. They are what I have planned for my build but unfortunately not for this one.


brooksy

Hey Brooksy, have you thought about just extending the diff brackets to include a cap over the top of the radius arm and use that as a pad for the bump stops? That way you transfer the force directly to the diff instead of the radius arms. That way you could also move the bump stops forward to hit directly above the axle instead of behind it. It wouldn't take much to do. You could even have it as a bolt on kind of like castor plates. Just goes over your existing mounts and uses the bolts that you already have.

Tough nuts idea sounds like a good one if I do say so my self ,have you thought of mounting the bump up side down on the inside of the radius arm with a pad on the out side of the chassis it would look wrong but work the same and when you roll it it will look like you put the cab on up side down.
Have you thought about putting leaves back in if you are worried about flex you could go buggy leaf ?

Wouldnt mounting a pad off the Diff above the radius arm cause the housing to rotate backwards everytime they hit? Wouldn't do your bushes any favours, I think right on top of the housing is the only place they should be. And I believe it says somewhere on the bumps not to be mounted upside down.

It's alright gudge .... Garth is a joker with a splash of serious. You unfortunately took the bait

I do like toughnuts idea, might see if it will work for me.




brooksy

gudge wrote:Wouldnt mounting a pad off the Diff above the radius arm cause the housing to rotate backwards everytime they hit? .

My thoughts too.

Nope, but will cause extra forces on bushes which I agree will happen but maintenance schedule makes it negligible.
Bump stop locations are not always directly mounted over axle although only in comp & recreational style vehicles. Factory style is over axle due to bump stops not being regarded as a periodic servicing item.



brooksy

I think that the rotation it would incur on the bushes would cause a bump steer situation due to the change in castor during rotation. Right when you don't want it.......

rockcrawler31 wrote:I think that the rotation it would incur on the bushes would cause a bump steer situation due to the change in castor during rotation. Right when you don't want it.......

Thats why I suggested a mounting that sits directly above the diff and even easier if you just bolt or weld it above the upper radius bush.