Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just wondering if any one knows of any good auto joints to send my 3spd to for a rebuild and get it manualised ?

im in newcastle but sending it interstate is not an issue if they are good

Wyong autos?

Let us know how you go if you dont mind. Id like to go full manual as well.

Im not sure how to hook up the existing vacuum shift as i have boost at the manifold.

oops wrong login. Its Canberramav.

can't you just put the vacuum line in front of the turbo so when to throttle on it will cause a vacuum ?

bolt the fawking thing together and wheel it dont need to rebuilds and manualised

redzook wrote:bolt the fawking thing together and wheel it dont need to rebuilds and manualised

eat it ill be wheeling this weekend !!! in yours !!!!!!!!!

I would recommend just putting a decent stall in it first! no need for a manual shift, IMO. It will make the biggest difference by far.

^ on that topic.

I'll be putting a 3spd in mine. What would I be looking at in regards to $$$/effort to get the stall speed setup better?

when you say decent stall way are we talking about ? i mean I know way a stall converter is but way figures are you talking Greg ?

hypo wrote:can't you just put the vacuum line in front of the turbo so when to throttle on it will cause a vacuum ?

Unless there is a throttle body in front of the turbo there will be bugger all vacumme at that point, only from whatever restriction the air filter might be causing which wont be enough

oozuk wrote:

hypo wrote:can't you just put the vacuum line in front of the turbo so when to throttle on it will cause a vacuum ?

Unless there is a throttle body in front of the turbo there will be bugger all vacumme at that point, only from whatever restriction the air filter might be causing which wont be enough

what other ways can you pickup vacuum on a boosted engine then ? and alo what about the brake booster vacuum line ?

1MadEngineer wrote:I would recommend just putting a decent stall in it first! no need for a manual shift, IMO. It will make the biggest difference by far.

Whats a good stall size for a 'rock crawler'?

ethann wrote:

1MadEngineer wrote:I would recommend just putting a decent stall in it first! no need for a manual shift, IMO. It will make the biggest difference by far.

Whats a good stall size for a 'rock crawler'?

Minimum 2500 IMO. 2750-3500 would be sweet depending on engine and stall design.

1MadEngineer wrote:

ethann wrote:

1MadEngineer wrote:I would recommend just putting a decent stall in it first! no need for a manual shift, IMO. It will make the biggest difference by far.

Whats a good stall size for a 'rock crawler'?

Minimum 2500 IMO. 2750-3500 would be sweet depending on engine and stall design.

That seems a little high for a 1.6L 4 cal ?

hypo wrote:

1MadEngineer wrote:

ethann wrote:

1MadEngineer wrote:I would recommend just putting a decent stall in it first! no need for a manual shift, IMO. It will make the biggest difference by far.

Whats a good stall size for a 'rock crawler'?

Minimum 2500 IMO. 2750-3500 would be sweet depending on engine and stall design.

That seems a little high for a 1.6L 4 cal ?

No! If you ride the clutch in a manual in a 2nd gear launch it would bite around those revs. Don't forget you ratio in first is high.

Zook motors do seem to love that rev range.. Different I know, but my 1.3 carb performs its best at about 3000-4500rpm.

As much as big stalls are good for crawling just remember how much heat they will put into the auto and fit a big cooler

Rhett wrote:As much as big stalls are good for crawling just remember how much heat they will put into the auto and fit a big cooler

Mostly depends on the brand. I had a 4000rpm dominator converter in my race car, replaced it with a 4800-5000 Melva convertor and the car ran 4-5mph quicker top end and the auto was 30degrees cooler. A good convertor will provide a higher percentage of lockup at low'ish revs but will flash to the required rpm. Don't forget a zook is light and you will have reduction gears as well which reduces the load in first gear. The higher stall will also allow you to up the idle revs a little which helps off-idle launchs and give some flow to the power steering system.

1MadEngineer wrote:. The higher stall will also allow you to up the idle revs a little which helps off-idle launchs and give some flow to the power steering system.

this alone sounds good to me

mmm interesting

I have a stally of some kind and it' makes the auto soo much drivable on the big climbs. I recon I can stall up to 2000-2400 on big ledges and still the wheels can just turn but with lots of torque..