Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hay hay,
I want to convert my rangie to toyota diffs, any recommendations, like which series to run. any pit falls???

Cheers NAT

Theres a guy over here in England who has put Toyota axles on his Range rover, apparently its not to hard to do. Don`t know of any pit falls, but on the plus side he now has locking diffs I can try and find out more if you like?

that would be great! i want to go this way so i get the strength and stud pattern.

Cheers nat

Hi Nat
80 series front and rear.
You just grind off all the Toy mounts then either fabricate new mounts or carefully cut off your old Rover ones.
New is better as you can go stronger and copy all the positions off the Rover ones.
If you are not a competent welder find one
80 series bits turn up on Ebay and forums with lockers now and then...usually after they just rolled their rig
Maggot on AULRO has done it years ago
Dave

pdd1098 wrote:Hi Nat
80 series front and rear.
You just grind off all the Toy mounts then either fabricate new mounts or carefully cut off your old Rover ones.
New is better as you can go stronger and copy all the positions off the Rover ones.
If you are not a competent welder find one
80 series bits turn up on Ebay and forums with lockers now and then...usually after they just rolled their rig
Maggot on AULRO has done it years ago
Dave

There you go, its been answered. the conversion is getting a little common over here.

I know where there are some toy converted diffs with 4.1 gears and arb lockers front and rear, think he wants about $3k.
These are toyota converted diffs not toyota diffs

nat p wrote:hay hay,
I want to convert my rangie to toyota diffs, any recommendations, like which series to run. any pit falls???

Cheers NAT

Could I pursuade you to stay loyal to Rover....smaller housing = better clearance.

Oh and by the way I have a sick setup for sale on AULRO see driveline components for sale Maxidrive heaven there

Dave

I would stick with the rover diffs. Axles are cheap and easy to get these days. No hassles with engineering and mod plates. Been there before with fitting Patrol front and and 80 series rear. Wish I never bothered as engineering and fab costs were way too much. I should have bought maxi drive.

Just bought another 1994 and doing it easy this time.. Hytuff axles and air locker being fitted as we speak

Camo

V8 Rangie wrote:I would stick with the rover diffs. Axles are cheap and easy to get these days. No hassles with engineering and mod plates. Been there before with fitting Patrol front and and 80 series rear. Wish I never bothered as engineering and fab costs were way too much. I should have bought maxi drive.

Just bought another 1994 and doing it easy this time.. Hytuff axles and air locker being fitted as we speak

Camo

Just out of interest how much all up for the locker and Hytuff install?
Cheers
Dave

Will end up being 4k for both diffs with lockers.

The diff conversion is way more. for 2 good diffs 1.5k-2k, 2k for lockers, 1k fab work cost, 1k for 2 custom drive shafts (still vibration prob, even with landcruiser rear), 1k for engineering+mod plate, plus time wasted getting all this sorted when you are missing out on weekend 4x4 trips! Thats nearly 7k....pass

I'd stick with rover diffs anyday or if you are real keen, do toy conversion on the rover diff.

That makes my Maxi setup disc to disc both ends and Cromo CV's a bargain at $3k!
Dave

pdd1098 wrote:That makes my Maxi setup disc to disc both ends and Cromo CV's a bargain at $3k!
Dave

Apart from the fact that the spares availability for the lockers is poor (early) to non existant..(late)

My choice nowdays would be Ashcroft lockers, ashcroft rear axles, Rovertracks front axles and cvs, with ashcroft Cw+p's if required.

Thats the best option in my mind if you are runnning 35's or maybe even 37's

Ive seen too many broken toyota centres in rover housings to make it seem worth while to me. I mean one of them was Sams and he wheels mostly on the end of a winch rope

WRT to rear axles I run Hytuff's and while I haven't yet broken one I am not 100% happy with them.,... even with oil fed wheel bearings and plenty of oil getting to them they are fretting.

wowsers, thanks pete!!

hi Pete,

what do you mean by "fretting"?

x2

what is fretting?

I may be using the wrong term, but i understand it as the wearing of the splines. ie them becoming lose.

links

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fretting" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Rea ... tting-wear" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thanks Pete,

how are you checking this??? I wonder if its the axle or actually the flange....either way not so good hey.

Petes wrote:Ive seen too many broken toyota centres in rover housings to make it seem worth while to me. I mean one of them was Sams and he wheels mostly on the end of a winch rope

BURN!!!
FKNLOL

p.s. Hey Sam, how is the wombat these days? Been way out of the loop for too long, I need some gossip!

At least with the early ie 28 spline maxidrives, spares are still available. Hytuff had axles and the side gears are holden 1 tonne. The side gears in the later 24 spline centres I don't think are available any longer unless M R Auto has made new ones or someone else has started manufacturing them again. This seems to be a problem with the later units.