Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok...i'm hoping someone can set a few things straight. I just spoke to a suspension company that told me i cant raise the torsion bars more than 1.5 inch???? he also said that i might be lucky to even get that.

he quoted 400 bucks to put a longer leaf in. everywhere i go to try and get a lift leads to a dead end.....

Ultimate Suspension or TJM. They have kits. The TJM can be a bit harsh.

From memory, I paid $1200 for a kit. Custom rear leafs, TJM shocks, and just a turn on teh Torsions. I got about 60mm I think....

The US comes with new Torsions bars. Mike H knows all about their stuff.

Jason,

You might get more than that, prolly about two and a bit inches, at best. Leaves are made by a few companies, ultimate, tough dog, lovells, dobinsons, all depends on your model.

Do a web search for these companies and you'll turn something up. Otherwise, call a relaible 4x4 retailler and get them to get quotes for you, this will end up more expensive tho...

wait a minute... what about new torsion bars for u.s. models? do explain...

SimplyPV wrote:wait a minute... what about new torsion bars for u.s. models? do explain...

U.S = Ultimate Suspension

awww... got my hopes up....

murcod wrote:

SimplyPV wrote:wait a minute... what about new torsion bars for u.s. models? do explain...

U.S = Ultimate Suspension

haa haa stupid american.....

You should be able to get them in teh states PV.

bloody aussies.....

ok well i went to a suspension place yesterday to see what they said bout getting a two inch lift out of my fez. after he went over it he gave me this quote;

4 shock = $420
1 Shackle bush 4 pack = $47
1 Shackle buch 4 pack = $40
1 Urethane Bush = $43
1 Leaf springs = 285
4 Special U bolt = $72
1 Fitting = $231
1 Wheel Alignment = $55

Note that ive requested an extra leaf be put in for and increase in load carry ability.

total was $1193.00

He said that to get the lift the best way with my fez was to get them reset and then an extra leaf added in the prevent re-sagging again.

this guy had worked with feroza's before and recons this is the way to go. so far he's the only guy to offer any help with lifting my fez.

so i dare ask......what do you guys think????

If your going to be spending all that money, i would be going the little bit extra and getting complete new lifted springs for the rear and not bothering with getting them reset with an extra leaf.

Try to stay away from urethane bushes if you can. They tend to be noisy and transmit more vibration through the vehicle. They are cheaper than the rubber OE ones, but rubber is still better and is worth the extra cash.

Be wary of just getting a set of leaves reset higher for more lift. The reason, leaves are a certain length, from centre bolt to front eye, and centre bolt to rear eye. Now the rear length, assuming your shackle is at the rear end of the spring, determines the angle of the shackle at rest. This has to be correct, so that it doesnt lay completely down under spring compression, nor will it tend to invert under spring extension.
Now, if you just get the springs reset, then the actual length of the centre bolt to rear eye changes, actually shortening, so there will be a tendency for the shackles to stand more upright. Under spring extension, there is a greater chance of shackle inversion. Hence, if you check the specs of two springs, one standard, and one with some lift, the latter will actually be longer in overall length.
Solution, there are three. First, get the springs reset, and hope the shackle doesnt invert. Second, buy aftermarket springs with a lift. Third, do some research and find a set of springs that are the same width, but are actually longer than standard springs. Then get these springs reset with a lift. This is the option I went for for my Rocky. Nissan C20 springs are about 2 inches longer overall than standard Rocky springs. Getting these reset gave me about 4-5 inches of spring lift. This was even after I had a set of new springs with 2 inches of lift made for me by Dobinsons. Hopefully all this confuses the issue even further.

ok...thanx for the advice.

i've decided to get some rancho 9000 adjustable shocks for 198 bucks each. once i have them i'll go for new leafs with a two inch lift and improved strength. not sure which brand yet. then i'll get new torsion bars to allow for the lift.

once i have all these, all i have to do is get someone to fit them.

jason lownds wrote:ok...thanx for the advice.

i've decided to get some rancho 9000 adjustable shocks for 198 bucks each. once i have them i'll go for new leafs with a two inch lift and improved strength. not sure which brand yet. then i'll get new torsion bars to allow for the lift.

once i have all these, all i have to do is get someone to fit them.

Jason, it might pay to do a search in the Daihatsu forum before purchasing Ranchos....

Mate, I am not speaking from experience but have noticed a lot of people dissing 9000's for Ferozas, as they are too firm, made for much larger trucks. Perhaps 5000's would be better.

Also, you dont have to get new torsions, you can wind up yours as they are. The only reason to get new ones is to buy bars with a different spring rate for comfort, depends if its worth it price wise...

And finally, if you have the tools, you should be able to fit them yourself. Its just a matter of bolting bits in with the car on stands. Hell, I put my shocks on in about an hour without even jacking the rear up, just the front.

Anyhoo good luck however you get there...

god dam it...... why do i always come to a dead end.

ok. can anyone recommend an adjustable shock for my fez?

i would never have thought this could be so frustrating........and yet so enjoyable.

Why do they have to be adjustable??

I would set it all up together with the springs at the same time, ring companies direct and tell them what you want to do, how you want the vehicle to handle on the road, what you are likely to be carrying, then ask them what they reccomend, then make your mind up based on the different reccomendations.

Feel free to ask around here, but as with all things many of the manufacturers have changed lines, and some products are not made any longer.

Just a note on shock changing- the rear is a right PITA if you've got the factory three way adjustables. You have to lift the carpet in the rear and undo an access cover in the floor on each side, then unbolt the motor off the top to access the top nut on the shock.

Koni no longer make off the shelf shocks to fit the Feroza, you could however get some custom made by one of their distributors. Procomp and Tough Dog also make adjustables but probably not to fit a Feroza?

i was after adjustables because i wanted to be able to change them to match the load.

however, i think now i will just go for a lifted heavy duty kit. Tried one well know company already but their customer service was crap. Will ring a few more today and keep the info posted here.

ok well i'm pretty sure i'm going to get tjm to do it all for me. i'm going new springs heavy duty with a two inch raise (if i can get that much).

an option was to replace the torsion bars.....can anyone give some advice on wether this would be a good idea?

If i were you, i would stick with the standard torsion bars. (unless you want to blow $1000+)

I have wound mine up quite a fair way, and havent had any problems. I got a quote for new ones and the only reason i would get them is due to the amount of down travel left. f*ck all!!

But if you can live with that, it will save you $$$

yeah i think i will. i think they were about 450 bucks. Might use that to get a two inch body lift instead.

bing bing sunshine. Keep in mind the TJM kit can give a harsh ride. Get the BL. get some decent tyres. weld the front diff. all good.

A question to ponder:

How are new torsion bars going to give more down travel (providing you keep the ride height at the same level)?

The up and down travel limits are controlled by the bumpstops, so I fail to see how heavy duty torsion bars will make any difference.....

Question pondered
Theoritically, they cant... all the new torsion will do would rotate the lower A frame into the bumpstop. Which is all you do when you wind em up.

I suppose it will give more ease of up-travel.

They could also limit your up travel if they are stiffer and harder to compress.....

I would think that if you went to new torsions then it would be for a different spring rate. If you wind up the standard ones then you are putting more preload on them and thus they willnot soak up small bumps comfortably. A progressive rate designed to be wound up to the height you want would have at the beginning of its travel a lighter spring load...

Is there such as thing as progressive rate torsion bars though? I've never seen any listed.

Croz wrote:I would think that if you went to new torsions then it would be for a different spring rate. If you wind up the standard ones then you are putting more preload on them and thus they willnot soak up small bumps comfortably. A progressive rate designed to be wound up to the height you want would have at the beginning of its travel a lighter spring load...

Adjusting the torsion bars does not put any pre load on them, when you move the adjuster it moves the other end aswell. All adjusting them does is changes the neutral postion of the suspension. It does however allow the suspension to move further upwards, thus twisting the torsion bar further then the factory design which could then lead to breakages and such, but i have never seen it happen. You will find the different feel of the suspension will be due to the front A arms being in a different neutral position to standard thus reacting differently when hitting bumps and such.

jason lownds wrote:yeah i think i will. i think they were about 450 bucks. Might use that to get a two inch body lift instead.

You could do a body lift for $150