Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys ive got a 98 80 series with 275 ks on it and want it turbo , i think its got compression issues cuz its rollingon the gear. i want to do it all properly and just wonder what people have done and what would b the best option. cheers

Best option, if you have the coin is a 1HD-T or 1HD-FT with a Gturbo, big front mount intercooler and 3" zorst

80's_delirious wrote:Best option, if you have the coin is a 1HD-T or 1HD-FT with a Gturbo, big front mount intercooler and 3" zorst

Thanks :-)

True enough, selling a working 1HZ and paying $7700 for a good condition warranted JDM import 1HDT is an economical solution when you crunch all the numbers. PJM Performance here in Perth did that to their own 100 series and installed a Safari FMIC, 3" exhaust, Gturbo (Grunter 2) and I tuned it. Now every potential customer drives it and cannot understand how its even possible how well it goes - far better than stock 1HDFTE. They ALL buy one (intercooler/exhaust/Gturbo). So well does it go, that it easily outpaces the $20K+ V8 6.5 Chev Turbo swaps. No need to change diffs etc.

Now as for the much maligned 1HZ, I have a kit for those using a genuine new 1HDT manifold. If this site wasnt so hard to post pics to I would post a dyno sheet that shows AFR's, power, boost response of th Gturbo along with the two best widely used options. In any case, basiclaly fuill torque (~400nm) from only 1400rpm under steady load, with AFR's around 20:1. All with standard 2" stick exhaust. What a difference. So impressed was the customer (PJM did the install), that he dropped off two cases of beer a couple of days later.

I think there is life in the 1HZ. I am considering doing a "hotted up version" much like the TD42's you see around. The problem is many 1HZ's are tuned to 15-17:1 and people must watch their right foot. I tune about the same power with earlier torque at 20:1 which is far safer (lower EGT's).

For those that dont know, AFR's and EGT's go hand in hand. So, if you tune to correct AFR's (which is an instantaneous readout), the EGT's take care of themselves.

care also needs to be taken on if tune was done on cold or hot day. The old style inj pumps could benefit from a winter and summer tune. Fitting an intercooler will minimize this effect.

You should be able to upload pics directly from your PC now, just click the 'Upload Attachment' button just below the Review, Save, Submit buttons.


I wish you weren't in WA, I'd gladly offer my 1HZZZZZ as guinea pig :-)

I'd like to know what you can come up with to MAXIMISE output from the 1HZZZZZ.

ndog wrote:hey guys ive got a 98 80 series with 275 ks on it and want it turbo , i think its got compression issues cuz its rollingon the gear. i want to do it all properly and just wonder what people have done and what would b the best option. cheers

If you can spin some spanner's.
Buy a written off 100 series & convert it to a 1hd-fte, All bolt in & others are reporting an total cost of 6g after the left over bits have been sold.
Search on lcool in the 100 series section.
PM if you want more details

Hamo

80's_delirious wrote:You should be able to upload pics directly from your PC now, just click the 'Upload Attachment' button just below the Review, Save, Submit buttons.


I wish you weren't in WA, I'd gladly offer my 1HZZZZZ as guinea pig :-)

I'd like to know what you can come up with to MAXIMISE output from the 1HZZZZZ.

Great, here goes....

Provided by Shawn Swaffield at Diesel Central Gracemere, QLD

Pink lines are the Gturbo. Red/Green is GT2860RS with an intercooler and Blue is DTS. Look at the AFR's...........

Torque/power curve. All uncorrected, at wheels
This one shows steady state at 1409rpm. It's making 66whp, 11psi boost and AFR's are still over 17:1.

The 1HZzzzzz usually makes less than that at 3400rpm!

The EGT's on this setup are great, not so for the other options presented.

Hamo wrote:

ndog wrote:hey guys ive got a 98 80 series with 275 ks on it and want it turbo , i think its got compression issues cuz its rollingon the gear. i want to do it all properly and just wonder what people have done and what would b the best option. cheers

If you can spin some spanner's.
Buy a written off 100 series & convert it to a 1hd-fte, All bolt in & others are reporting an total cost of 6g after the left over bits have been sold.
Search on lcool in the 100 series section.

Hamo

The 1HD-FTE is great; I have one and I did a conversion on mine in entirety. I am doing more work to it and getting some high flow injectors done - Im not sure this has been done before. If it has, I havent read about it. The elctronics aspect totally sucked and is a little risky when it comes to the immobiliser. I couldnt get it started when I first tried an it was stressfull

As great as they are, I am leaning more and more to the 1HD-T. I removed the injectors from a spare 1HD-FTE I have and hated every second. OMG the valve train is complicated while the 1HDT is simple. I would not relish the idea of having a high km FT or FTE in regard to a full valve train rebuild $$$$. The electronic pump is awesome and I love tuning it with my laptop..... but a VE pump can flow the goods so power is there, is dead simple to tune and almost gives the same economy....

1HZ's's rev the best, bulletproof valvetrain and while ~10-15% less economical, can be made to be very good. A turbo kit install is dead easy as well (5 hrs tops). Possible to push the stock pump to over 120rwkw, which is no slouch (stock FTE 108rwkw). So, make them reliable and they could be a good option as well.

So, they all have their merits and some persons time worth more than anothers. Beauty of 1HDT swap is it really is a direct swap. I tell yo what though, Peter at PJM when he first installed the 1HDT (unmodded JDM import) was gutted at how slow it was when he first put it in. He couldnt be happier now, but in stock form.... slow......

Man those pictures suck Graeme. Can you get clearer ones or even scan print outs.

TheBigBoy wrote:Man those pictures suck Graeme. Can you get clearer ones or even scan print outs.

Ctrl printscreen then save it as an image file.

stilivn wrote:

TheBigBoy wrote:Man those pictures suck Graeme. Can you get clearer ones or even scan print outs.

Ctrl printscreen then save it as an image file.

Its still fuzzy as.

Doesn't clicking on them bring up a clear pic?

Hamo wrote:Buy a written off 100 series & convert it to a 1hd-fte, All bolt in & others are reporting an total cost of 6g after the left over bits have been sold.
Search on lcool in the 100 series section.
PM if you want more details

Hamo

Went to salvage auctions in Brisbane this week- a 1992 HDJ 80 with 315km sold for $6450. With the auction fees and freight this would be around $7500. Hard to believe how sought after these things are.

slosh wrote:

Hamo wrote:Buy a written off 100 series & convert it to a 1hd-fte, All bolt in & others are reporting an total cost of 6g after the left over bits have been sold.
Search on lcool in the 100 series section.
PM if you want more details

Hamo

Went to salvage auctions in Brisbane this week- a 1992 HDJ 80 with 315km sold for $6450. With the auction fees and freight this would be around $7500. Hard to believe how sought after these things are.

Not really, incredible engines tbh.

Graeme, do you know any way for a home tuner to measure AFRs with out spending big dolllars?

80's_delirious wrote:Graeme, do you know any way for a home tuner to measure AFRs with out spending big dolllars?

The old look for the black smoke . Other that a wide band O2 sensor and gauge or LM2.

TheBigBoy wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:Graeme, do you know any way for a home tuner to measure AFRs with out spending big dolllars?

The old look for the black smoke . Other that a wide band O2 sensor and gauge or LM2.

yeah, was hoping for something slightly more scientific than looking in the mirror

80's_delirious wrote:

TheBigBoy wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:Graeme, do you know any way for a home tuner to measure AFRs with out spending big dolllars?

The old look for the black smoke . Other that a wide band O2 sensor and gauge or LM2.

yeah, was hoping for something slightly more scientific than looking in the mirror

Actually, this mighht be interesting for you guys.

IDI burns with less smoke when the AFR's are low than DI (low pressure DI). So, no or very little smoke may be bad on a IDI like a 1HZ. You really need to tune on AFR's. On a DI like 1HDT (especially), they start to smoke even at 20:1 so you typically are safe if you tune by smoke. Same is true for the 1HDFT but they are a cleaner engine due to better swirl of the 2 valve design

CustomTurbos wrote:

Hamo wrote:

ndog wrote:hey guys ive got a 98 80 series with 275 ks on it and want it turbo , i think its got compression issues cuz its rollingon the gear. i want to do it all properly and just wonder what people have done and what would b the best option. cheers

If you can spin some spanner's.
Buy a written off 100 series & convert it to a 1hd-fte, All bolt in & others are reporting an total cost of 6g after the left over bits have been sold.
Search on lcool in the 100 series section.

Hamo

The 1HD-FTE is great; I have one and I did a conversion on mine in entirety. I am doing more work to it and getting some high flow injectors done - Im not sure this has been done before. If it has, I havent read about it. The elctronics aspect totally sucked and is a little risky when it comes to the immobiliser. I couldnt get it started when I first tried an it was stressfull

As great as they are, I am leaning more and more to the 1HD-T. I removed the injectors from a spare 1HD-FTE I have and hated every second. OMG the valve train is complicated while the 1HDT is simple. I would not relish the idea of having a high km FT or FTE in regard to a full valve train rebuild $$$$. The electronic pump is awesome and I love tuning it with my laptop..... but a VE pump can flow the goods so power is there, is dead simple to tune and almost gives the same economy....

1HZ's's rev the best, bulletproof valvetrain and while ~10-15% less economical, can be made to be very good. A turbo kit install is dead easy as well (5 hrs tops). Possible to push the stock pump to over 120rwkw, which is no slouch (stock FTE 108rwkw). So, make them reliable and they could be a good option as well.

So, they all have their merits and some persons time worth more than anothers. Beauty of 1HDT swap is it really is a direct swap. I tell yo what though, Peter at PJM when he first installed the 1HDT (unmodded JDM import) was gutted at how slow it was when he first put it in. He couldnt be happier now, but in stock form.... slow......

I know 12hts are rather old hat but they are still popular with the poor folks (me and probably some others)... but can you (custom turbos) give a short appreciation of the 12ht... good points... bad points... limitations and how they can be improved reliably etc.... thnx