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CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 5:21 am
by evanstaniland
As it states I'm looking at changing out my factory booster/mc setup for a CNC setup.
I'm looking at a single pedal dual MC with remote res, but am unsure on a few things.
I don't know what bore size I need front and rear. I'm running factory 80 series disc brakes and 2 of the 2in2out cutting brake units.
Also will a manual MC setup like this have enough 'bite' to pull it up?
Cheers
Evan
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:23 am
by MikeH
If nobody chimes in find out the diameter and number of your caliper pistons then go and see a brake specialist.
Bite depends on a number of things, master cyl sizing, pads, pedal mechanical advantage to start with and finishing up with leg and firewall strength.
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 11:53 am
by brooksy
The only person I know who has CNC is Guts in his buggy
brooksy
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:19 pm
by Turbo Tonka
jases zuk has it. and last time i drove it it was shit,didnt want to pull it up at all.
may have been from many other parts of the brake system but you really had to stand on it to try stop it
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 1:48 pm
by bru21
I have the set up you are after.
Its cnc and i bought it when I was in the states and was going to run 80s diffs in the jimny.
The guys at Kartek helped me work it out and they have 80s there.
Its a full size 16" pedal, and (from memory) 1/2" master fro the rear & 3/4" for the front.
I also have 3 reservoirs one for each and the clutch CNC as well.
Let me know if you are interested.
cheers bru
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:02 pm
by WICKED
I'm 99% sure that Dave Camp runs them in his 40
Brakes are hard, all the bore sizes need to work together with the correct mechanical advantage.
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 4:04 pm
by joshy
Evan didnt jake have that in his POS. Trying to stop that bucket while getting it off the trailer was a pita. Probably wasnt the right one for the application tho
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:47 pm
by ethann
Turbo Tonka wrote:jases zuk has it. and last time i drove it it was shit,didnt want to pull it up at all.
may have been from many other parts of the brake system but you really had to stand on it to try stop it
Jases has been bled again and is better, but doesn't help with the t700 trying to drive through the brakes haha.
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:42 pm
by Turbo Tonka
that was true. my GF tried to drive it and standing up on the brakes it kept driving lol
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 4:12 pm
by SierraDan
yeah it stops awesome in N haha.
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:26 pm
by mud guts
I was running i think 3/4, but had issues of pushing through brakes, i upgraded to 7/8 cylinders, my calipers are 1 ton big single piston and it felt like i was running out of cylinder before calipers were. on top of that i put in a higher stall, a lot of tuning on dizzy, idle and fuel has eliminated drive at idle.
I think it could be better but is ok. Next move is a longer pedal to increase ratio
Cylinder size needed is calculated on caliper size
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 1:20 pm
by bazooked
wilwood is the way to go, after reading how crap cnc actually are on pirate, shoot wilwood an email tell them way you want etc and go from there.
Re: CNC manual brake MC......who runs them?
Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:09 pm
by MikeH
there really is a lot to it, you don;t "run out of wheel cylinder" if your wheel bearings are tight and you arent getting pad knock-off. (assuming your disks or pads aren't under size and the pistons fall out)
I dont run dust shields on my disks and I use a residual pressure valve to hold a very small amount of pressure in the line to stop the mud knocking the pads back.