Modern super charger technology's have advanced in leaps and bounds sure and have their place in performance automotive applications.
In this case most people dont tell you that supercharging 1hz'ed can be done but special attention is required to the harmonic balancer, as just bolting a pully on the front to drive after market kits usually has them parting company and bits flying everywhere. Additionally the cost of a supercharger installation is always almost double that of a aturbo application.. Sure you can buy "cheap" blowers, and you'll get cheap over all performance. Cheap blowers wont have reticulation bypass systems, wont make boost properly, have poor adbatic efficencies etc.. ( read: boost pressure isnt always real boost..heated and expanded air give boost pressure but less density - in short ) 2lobe and 3 lobe rotor blowers work well for give rps ranges, but most like a gm style wont have a bypass system and has a constant drag on the engine robbing of you of power and economy..yes you can have econmoy with a blower if the installation is correct.
In general tho - if anyone ever says i want a blower and i want economy they arnt well informed of the real cost of supercharging initially and overall.
Turbo charging however in your application is better.
Initial costs are lower - and yes who ever quoted you that price for the turbo and intercooler assembly needs arse kicking ..thats well over normal - not including tune up and exhaust system...
Personally i believe the full exhaust system is over rated and is more for Noise power .Not fitting it.. peak performance takes a small hit...but your pocket doesnt...dyno figures I've worked with suggest I'm right as well...1000 bucks for 10 peak HP..forget it.
Big dump pipe and a good centre muffler..ditch the rear all good.
Intercooled boost systems are definately a good practice on aspirated engines that get boosted...you can stick as much air in as you like really ( within reason ) but if the cylinder temp gets to high..thats when pistons and head gaskets say enough's enough...
Intercooled turbo systems...and blown..can see pre-cooler intake tempretures as high as 200 degree.. Fitting a good intercooler ( read into them as well i suggest ) will take anything up to 75% of the boosted heat temp out and leave you with a more managable 60 - 100 degree intake temp..
Heat in the intake charge is what leads to engine heat up and detonation. This is exacerbated if combined with a poor tune, over fuelling and or to much initial advance in the injection timing.
AS most tuning places cant adjust the advance curve of the injection pump itself internally, the total amount of injection advance isnt curbed, so most places will give a moderate initial timing setting and just fuel her up a bit to try and compensate- which then affects your overall economy to.
Additionally - blowers have a fraction of the life span to that of a good water cooled turbo with moderate boost say (1 bar . 14.7 psi) Given your starting with an aspirated engine and want it to last...8-10 psi only is a good recommendation.
Power example.
I had a 91 model factory turbo 80 series. tweaked tuned and no intercooler at 13 lb boost went and pulled like a train.
I fitted a dts turbo kit with dts intercooler assembly to my brothers 1999 100 series. I tuned it and even with the standard factory exhaust on it we had a squirt on the way home after fitting it all up.
We halled up a road with a hill on it, and the bloody thing of his over took me and went around me on the outside of the turn....it was very impressive at the time, and it only ran 7 lb's boost. Buts he's always has complained about economy as the aspirated pumps dont have boost compensators and the other trick ( and expensive to fit bits ) like a factory turbo engine pump
So in the end. the converted 100 series engine had more power..but worse economy always _ ( i always put it down to the fact he was driving a big white bus, compared to the sleek lines of an 80 series....