Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey I want to make some SHS driveshafts and was wondering what size tubes you put together (and wall thickness) so they arnt too sloppy.

Going to start doing more comps and these will be alot cheaper to bash around rocks.

Cheers
Brad

If you can source some trailer hitch SHS then that would be ideal with a 50x50 male. The first one I made used 50x50x5 female and 40x40x4 male, it was fine on muddy stuff but hit granite country and the 40x40 pretzled. I now use the same 50x50x5 but with 40x40 solid with a 20mm hole machined up the middle to reduce some weight.

The above suggestion will work but the extra weight will take its tole on your pinion bearing on your diff.

Here is how I have made my last 3 box section drive shafts. I have yet to brake or twist one.
Using a 4" I trim and shaped the flange to where you can slip 4mm wall 50mm box section over it. Doing this it take stress off the welds from the twisting power.
I do the same on both ends. Make sure you use GOOD AUSSY Steel at least 4mm side wall. You can also sleeve it with a thin walled pipe. Doing this it is less likely to grab on rocks and walk.

V.W.Dave wrote:The above suggestion will work but the extra weight will take its tole on your pinion bearing on your diff.

Here is how I have made my last 3 box section drive shafts. I have yet to brake or twist one.
Using a 4" I trim and shaped the flange to where you can slip 4mm wall 50mm box section over it. Doing this it take stress off the welds from the twisting power.
I do the same on both ends. Make sure you use GOOD AUSSY Steel at least 4mm side wall. You can also sleeve it with a thin walled pipe. Doing this it is less likely to grab on rocks and walk.

Thanks for the info, if you used 50x50x4 SHS what did you put over it so it has a slip joint? I see you put a bigger piece over it to help brace it up at uni end
Cheers brad

Was that for your zook dave?

Brad I normaly take the end with me to the steel store and find what i need

sprungupcruiser wrote:Was that for your zook dave?

Those pictures are from when i mate it for my Zook. Remember it has Hilux outputs on the transfer and 60 diffs. I have also built the exact same thing for a 2 Hiluxs

Thanks for the info, just got to get some uni's and ill
Give it a go.

Cheers

Why make a dodgy unbalanceable SHS slip jointed shaft when you can buy a proper extra long splined slip joint?



http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.ph ... -inch.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

$250 vs $10 I'm guessing

CanberraMav wrote:$250 vs $10 I'm guessing

Poor man pays twice....
Do it right, do it once....

SHS is unbalanceable so it will chew out uni joints and pinion seals/bearings a lot quicker..

How long is the slip on the extra long one?

SIMMO84 wrote:How long is the slip on the extra long one?

Ten inch it says in the link...

I have that exact one on my hilux.

The thing is between my custom front and rear shafts they cost me about $900

I'm going to start doing comps, all crawling stuff and was planning making something cheap to swap over before the event, and if it breaks or bends I can put my proper balanced shafts back on.

I need to have spares for The comps and find it hard to justify the $$$ on something that's just gonna get smashed by rocks.

Brad

want33s wrote:

CanberraMav wrote:$250 vs $10 I'm guessing

Poor man pays twice....
Do it right, do it once....

SHS is unbalanceable so it will chew out uni joints and pinion seals/bearings a lot quicker..

Would never get driven above 60km/h so it's hard to see being a problem

If its for comps only I don't see a problem. If the box section shaft wears out a seal or uni every thousand km's that's a year or two of racing for me both those are easy to replace. I've never felt a vibration or noise from my front shaft and I've had it up to at least 100km/hr before.

brad 93hilux wrote:I have that exact one on my hilux.

The thing is between my custom front and rear shafts they cost me about $900

I'm going to start doing comps, all crawling stuff and was planning making something cheap to swap over before the event, and if it breaks or bends I can put my proper balanced shafts back on.

I need to have spares for The comps and find it hard to justify the $$$ on something that's just gonna get smashed by rocks.

Brad

Fair enough....

want33s wrote:Why make a dodgy unbalanceable SHS slip jointed shaft when you can buy a proper extra long splined slip joint?

want33s wrote:

CanberraMav wrote:$250 vs $10 I'm guessing

Poor man pays twice....
Do it right, do it once....
SHS is unbalanceable so it will chew out uni joints and pinion seals/bearings a lot quicker..

Believe me when I say they dont balance up to well regardless

My old Sierra needed 10" of slip and I didnt want to risk the long slip from Locktup thats why I went with the box section.

I have seen a few people make them out of PTO shafts they work well and if you have a farm equipment wreckers around you they can be found quite cheap then simply cut down to size.

[quote="V.W.DaveMy old Sierra needed 10" of slip and I didnt want to risk the long slip from Locktup thats why I went with the box section.



I have only always used standard hilux slip joints on all my comp trucks... my lux ran 18" race runners front and rear and never once dropped a shaft out even on full drop of the suspension...

I suggest you have a engeering shop like Overkill make you a chromoly shaft , They can get it true.. and with a decent wall thickness you wont bend it crawling in the Lux mate... A standard tailshaft is made out of shit hence you bend them off road... My current front shaft is 1 3/4 x 4mm tube, small strong and doesnt vibrate..

MogLux wrote:

V.W.Dave wrote:My old Sierra needed 10" of slip and I didnt want to risk the long slip from Locktup thats why I went with the box section.



.

I have only always used standard hilux slip joints on all my comp trucks... my lux ran 18" race runners front and rear and never once dropped a shaft out even on full drop of the suspension...

link suspensions use hardly any slip
a long travel leaf spring suspension in the front (shackles at the back) uses a heap of slip joint

I'll definately look into the cromo one.
My front needed the long slip in the front but In the rear with one piece shaft and nearly 16" travel it is fine with standard spline.

Cheers

I have a long slip front shaft from my POS I'm parting it out, pm me if your interested and I'll sort out pics and work out a price

The long slip shaft from Lowrange are meant to be unbalanceable also. I got one for a mate in one of my orders. Its a good thing, Way better than Box, but its not the best comparing to factory spline fitment. Our one had a bit of play in the splines.

Any particular reason why you would use SHS instead of tube? Cost?

I have no idea where to buy tube suited to tail shafts (without buying a 6-12m length). If I could buy a couple of Meters of heavy wall tube I'd just lengthen them myself and not worry bout balance..

I have the long slip spline from lowrange off road (one in pics) and had shaft lengthened and balanced by Daniel engineering, I've had it up to 120km/h with no vibrations so not sure how they are unbalancable..

Was just thinking of SHS because I have heard of people using it and with it you don't need a slip joint. But since hearing about snapping 40x40x4 and 50x50x5 (which is the strongest combination of available tube) then I won't be making one. If they made suitable 60x60 to pair up with 50x50 that would be ideal but they only make 65x65x6 - which is too sloppy paired with 50x50.

Brad

I was just saying, meant to be unbalanceable because thats what it said on the packaging. I wasnt sure real world.

Narrowscopeofreality wrote:Any particular reason why you would use SHS instead of tube? Cost?

How do you transmit drive with round tube spinning inside round tube?

Mudzuki wrote:

Narrowscopeofreality wrote:Any particular reason why you would use SHS instead of tube? Cost?

How do you transmit drive with round tube spinning inside round tube?

? Weld in a slip joint like factory