Outer Limits 4x4 Board

This kit uses standard or 2'' raised springs and standard length shocks to
give up to 50% more extension travel as most coil sprung rovers have more compression than extension travel i have made my own custom shock mounts which lower the mount position 3'' and solve the problem of shocks bending by allowing the shock bush to pivot with axle cross movement also releaving load on the original mount pin.
Full kit available inc crawler cones (t.m) ,cranked and laminated control arms,taper lock shock mounts,bump stop extensions,sway bar disconnects
and brake lines if applicable.
Or with my 41mm bore foam cell shocks and standard or raised springs.
As for anyone questioning the traction on the dislocated wheel, i feel if you
havn't yet driven a dislocated suspension system and after the 6 months
development i have done you are simply assuming what you are commenting on.

jeez... could the pics be any smaller

can't please everyone

I went and had a look at the big pics, and have a few questions...

Have you sleeved the trailling arms or just laminated them by welding angle to them???

Why not just fit a longer shock rather than the shock extension you have - it will give even more travel???

While the dislocation "half tubes" on the diff look like they will work, from what I have seen dislocation "cones" work better - the best design I have seen is Strangerovers that uses a conical hat of narrow pieced of flatbar instead of your pipe. It is lightweight and works well.

Lastly, for liability reasons it may be wise to have a statement that any purchasers should use at their own risk or that the mods are for offroad use only. Although they all look safe, welded suspension components (trailing arms) and dislocatable springs are not legal in QLD.

skids wrote:As for anyone questioning the traction on the dislocated wheel, i feel if you
havn't yet driven a dislocated suspension system and after the 6 months
development i have done you are simply assuming what you are commenting on.

might look good on a ramp, but does nothing for the stability of a rig

why the bumpstop extensions, doesn't that raise the C.O.G
david.

Ben the conrol arms arm laminated in 3mm wall seamless tube which is
welded onto the front and rear mounts and plug welded to the inner
exsisting control arm tubes.Alot stronger than the fuse welded factory
set up then the arm is bent to a certain no of deg and then gusuted.

What shock can you get that is 3'' longer than standard and bolts up to
factory mounts with out cutting and welding new ends on which usally
break or damage the seals or foot valve from the welding process.
The kit is built for the normal standard to 2'' raised coil sprung rover
who can use there exsisting shock if they wish.
A shock long enough to give this sought of articulation would simply
bottom out and bend or break remember what goes out must go back in
unless you lowered your bumpstop that much you will have around 1''
clearance believe me i have tryed it .

The cones are not bits of tube they are professionaly rolled with a .5'' taper and why would you need anything else for when the spring dislocates it only needs to slide up and down on one side of the cone
As you would know a cone is very strong and being made from 2mm
steel is very light.

My disconect limiting straps are N.A.T.A rated and when connected will
not let the spring dislocate. And yes i do sell the kit with a disclaimer or
you can have the control arms engineered aproved if you want to pay.

once again landy man you are commenting on somthing you have little or no experince in.

whatever

unretained, drooping springs will not offer the stability of retained springs... FULL STOP

go take a look at pirate, this has been hashed out time and time again, and you will find that most of the guys here and there that are in the know ALL run retained springs...

um does this mean gloves are off

sorry landyman i got a bit firery on the key board but remember my kit
is for standard or 2'' lift it works and well too and i have proven it is more
stable offroad i drive the bloody thing i should know.

more power to you but yeah it's a minefield. call 1800-dont-sue!

skids wrote:What shock can you get that is 3'' longer than standard and bolts up to
factory mounts with out cutting and welding new ends on .

If I remember correctly 80 series rears are longer than rangie rears. There are plenty of long shocks around that have a suitable sized eye at one end and a pin at the other - I think Strange Rover buys all his shocks from truck wreckers.

From what i can tell form the little bitty pictures. The bottom cones look a lot like RoverTym Cones except upside down. I will have to agree with Landy_Man that the unretained springs are very unstable especially on side slopes. I know this because I ran unretained springs for about 3 years.

Brad

mate i think it's just because one of your first posts is to sell something...
offer a bit more tech so everyone gets to know your experience with rigs.

Well take it or leave it what ever, i sell plenty of kits and i don't need to
argue with anyone. I'm happy with the results i've had with my kits and
that's all that matters. Got to go flat out at the momment.

Skids - I have seen your setup on AULRO and to be honest its abit of work to just have the original sized or similar shocks....
For that amount of travel and that size shock you dont really have to modify the upper shock mount to protect the shock... nor do you have to lower the bump stops....all you are doin is moving the suspension cycle not improving it.

The only real reason this would be a good idea is if you intended to run 36" or bigger rubber and really wanted to limit up travel to reduce scrub...... but who wants to run so big tyres on a standardish land rover ?


sorry to knock it but in the short time i have been on the 4by scene i have learnt that with rovers the simple setups are often the best

The kit does look well constructed just not well utilised sorry


Anthony

Once again the kit is for STANDARD TO 2'' RAISED HEIGHT TRUCKS
standard length shocks yes but i have gained 3'' exstension and only lost
1'' in compression,the 2'' bumpstop pictured allows 1'' safe gaurd when it
compresses. i'm sorry but there is no other way to gain more exstension
from a STANDARD SUSPENSION SET UP.

The kit must work or why has it near doubled it's ramp travel all the wheels are still on the ground and it still has a 1'' of compression left.

I'm sorry but you fellas are missing the application of the kit.

Shore you can have tall springs and long shocks to give this sought travel
but what about the center of gravity,that is the main advantage of my set up it's hardly changed.

The kit has absolutly nothing to do with being able to run bigger wheels
that comment could not be further from the truth.

The cycle has changed you are right there but not in they way your thinking the ratio now is about 60% extension 40% compression pretty close to 50/50 not bad i thought.

I have been in the industry since 1991 so yeah bit of knowlage there.

For anyone who can see past the miss-informed information that others are providing please contact me on my email mcbrowne@tpg.com.au as i don't have time to continually have to explain myself to tyre kickers with little respect for anyones knowlage.

misinformed my ass..

go look at scorpion racing... their "beginners" kit is the same as yours... lower the shock mount and put in some cones.....

this is nothing new.... well done for making an aussie version...

what i am saying is that IN MY OPNION reatined springs with the correct length shocks will be more stable on articulated climbs and off camber situations than dislocated springs...
I have run both on a Defender and a Rangie and will never go back to cones again.

P.S. are the exhaust clamps part of the kit as well

Does this kit only gives more flex in the rear?

When are you going to do a kit for the front?

I have a kit like this fitted to my 90 (in UK)
With the bent rear radius arms and Dislocation cones. But the cone you get here seat the spring at the top not the bottom. The bottom is bolted in as norm and then the cone bolts though the hole at the top. I also have shock mounts which sit 2" lower than the Land Rover one. (but bolt in to the same hole as the Land Rover ones)
I am running Old Man Emu Shocks (784's) and OME shocks (u44) and this gives me a nice travel in the truck. But does make a noise when the truck comes down and relocats the springs