Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey Guys

I've got a couple of brake shafts from Warn high mounts to drill/tap and machine up end caps for. Just wondering what size bolts others have used for this mod. Have some plated high tensile bolts here in 12mm unless anyone suggests that size isn't appropriate.

Call Mal Leslie and ask what he uses?
03 9459 2859
Perhaps explain that your in Tas or else you'd bring it to him to do......

Thanks Mate, did think of giving him a call but hate to take advantage knowing that I won't be paying him to do the work.

I used M10 from memory.

Maybe look on the gigglepin site. cheers bru

Pretty sure the gigglepin shaft's use a 1/2 inch bolt

I just knocked the brake shaft out of my high mount this afternoon and was wondering the exact same thing.

Looking at the GP site is depressing!

Thanks for the info guys, reckon I'll go for the M12

GRIMACE wrote:I just knocked the brake shaft out of my high mount this afternoon and was wondering the exact same thing.

Looking at the GP site is depressing!

Not wrong there, just been drooling over their gear myself.

I used m10 from memory. Can't see a problem with m12 so long as you don't go boring any more than you need to (30mm would be more than enough)

sorry for the hijack but who do we all recommend for the supply of a new 6hp XP motor?

Fourbys!

dogbreath_48 wrote:I used m10 from memory. Can't see a problem with m12 so long as you don't go boring any more than you need to (30mm would be more than enough)

That was my only worry with using the M12 bolt didn't want to be removing more material than necessary, only planning on boring in 25mm

GRIMACE wrote:sorry for the hijack but who do we all recommend for the supply of a new 6hp XP motor?

Hijack away! New motor will be on my shopping list before too long, seem to go for $460 on EBay, advertised for $400+ freight on Patrol 4x4 by Dave Matcalfe.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/classifieds/re ... otors.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Any other links to better prices?

bru21 wrote:Fourbys!

lol, already left a message for Ryan to call me.

Quick update on this thread.

Did the job a few days ago, ended up deciding to use a M10 bolt, seemed to be the best compromise between bolt strength and material removed from the shaft.

Just discovered the Gigglepin shaft only uses a M8 bolt anyway so I can stop worrying about whether my bolt will be large enough.
http://www.gigglepin4x4.net/Downloads/G ... ctions.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hey mate just wondering how you drilled yours. Ive had mine in the lathe and used numerous types of drill bits and cant make a dint in mine just keeps takeing the edge of the bits.
Cheers steve.

Few more details on the last page of my build thread.

I hit it with the oxy first, was still having the same trouble as you. I'd been told that the case hardening was only about 0.5mm thick so I machined about that much out across the 10mm width I wanted to drill. I used a tungsten carbide insert to machine that section, doubt a HSS tool would even touch it. Drilled it easily from there, started with a 6mm carbide drill bit then went straight to the 8.5mm ready to tap it. Tapped it by hand in the lathe using the tail stock to ensure I tapped it straight.

Cheers mate I'll give it a try. Nice write up and pics on your build up thread to mate.

tas80 wrote:Few more details on the last page of my build thread.

I hit it with the oxy first, .

Dont so this as the heat effected zone from the heating causes all sorts of abnormalities in the material. The easyiest way to do drill it is to use a masonary drill to start with and counterdrill where the shaft has been centerdrilled, as this will remove the material that has been hardended during the case hardening process, you will need to sharpen the masonary drill as best you can thouogh this is not so critical as it is not the finished size. Then slightly face the end of the shaft just larger than the major diameter of the size thread that you will be tapping. Then you drill the shaft with the correct size drill, use lots of coolant and reduce the speed that you would normaly use for that size drill, it may also pay to sharpen the drill to 130 degres. And hey presto you have a hole in your brake shaft.

Wouldn't it just be easier to use a carbide drill bit? I can imagine trying to sharpen a masonary drill bit would not be that easy unless you happen to have a silicon carbide pedestal grinder (or are happy grooving the shi# out of a standard wheel) and if you have one of these your prob in a machine shop where carbide drill bits are accessible..

Just a thought?
Brad

Yes you could buy the correct drill for the job, but most people wolud have a few small masonary drill bits and if they dont the required size for this job wold cost ~$10, so a very cheap option. For the average joe buying speicalised tooling is not cost effective. We are only talking bout a 6mm drill, so sharpining on an aluminium oxide wheel is not an issue. Have you a better option for the average joe that is obvisouly not a skilled machinest with access to all the wiz bang tools, but just likes to do thing themselfs with the help of someone elses machines??