Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Put the lux through its first comp tis weekend (suspension stuff challenge) and broke both engine mounts on the 3rd track. Ruling us out of track 4... It's a 308 in an LN65.

I asked another guy there with a 5L efi in a lux and he said he uses oem mounts, breaks em all the time but still puts oem ones back in Silly I thought, but, each to their own.

Question is, what are you using that is stronger than oem, what are the disadvantages of a solid pin type mount?

Cheers
Luke

I've done well with Valiant Slant 6 mounts.

I used them on my blown Lexus (450-500hp) and they outlasted a set of Jaguar V12 mounts (tougher version of Rover mounts) by a factor of 4.

One trick we used on old cruisers was to weld a couple of links of chain on either side to the mount to limit extension, rubber still did its job, but chain prevented mount open up too much and tearing...

Yea that's exactly what ive had to do...

http://www.monster4x4.com.au/blog/2012/ ... ne-mounts/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

my friend built dubai spec 500 rwkw+ turbo 4.8 patrol. He used patrol trailing arm bushes. they seem to be doing the job really well.

Or make something like these up ..

I run rubber spring bushes. Bit rough till they bed in but not too bad now

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... SHDOM.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

evanstaniland wrote:http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... SHDOM.html

+1

that will be rough as fuck with them wont it?

might aswell just hard mount the engine!

Yeah I'm not so keen on those mounts using the suspension style bushes. It's a road car as well so needs to have decent manners on the blacktop. What effect would they have on engine life being such a solid mount?

Buy some Rover ones and drill right through them and bolt them in. The mount acts like a massive rubber washer giving you enough play and is 1 gazillion times stronger than standard. You'll never need to buy mounts again.

I find this surprising.

If guys can mount big blocks and heeee-uge diesels without tearing up mounts then why can't it be done in a dirty old holden motor?

If you're REALLY having this issue then build a engine plate for it.

I'm guessing the mounts aren't installed in the correct location, so there's too much shear on the rubber.

-Scott- wrote:I'm guessing the mounts aren't installed in the correct location, so there's too much shear on the rubber.

^^ This.

Cheers,

Micko

We ended up buying new mounts and bolting them through with high tensile 12mm. If they break, then I'll just do the mount as above with leafspring bushes

leaf-spring style bushes, use genuine bushes which are often rubber to soften the vibration. don't forget the gearbox / transfer.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-713088/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


these are what ive used for my LS1 into 80series chassis

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-713008-ns/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; the mounts go together like this so you have a rubber biscuit above and below the chassis mount. the engine mount sits ontop of the top biscuit, bolt down through the engine side mount, through the top biscuit, through the chassis side mount, through the bottom biscuit, then a nyloc nut.

should still be a very good engine mount for vibrations, and no possibility of the engine breaking free as it would have to completely squash the bottom rubber to nothing and then the bolt will still top out on the chassis mount.

we had this issue a lot with our V8 SCANIA truck at work always tearing passenger side engine and Gearbox mounts.. Chained the Fucker down Engine And Gearbox Issue Solved