Outer Limits 4x4 Board

been looking at getting a 100 series with the 4.2 1hd-fte and thought they were all IFS but then found one that CLAIMS to be solid axle front end, is this true did they make a few 100's 1hd-fte with solid axle fronts? im new to this forum so if it sounds stupid dont be too harsh haha

cam9022 wrote: is this true did they make a few 100's 1hd-fte with solid axle fronts?

No they did not. But plenty of 105's have been converted.

Hamo

didnt think so but had to make sure dont tell me that i just sold my 105r haha has anyone done the cape and kimberleys with IFS and howd'd it go?
a 2" lift all round with dropped boxed diff front should hold up?

cam9022 wrote:didnt think so but had to make sure dont tell me that i just sold my 105r haha has anyone done the cape and kimberleys with IFS and howd'd it go?
a 2" lift all round with dropped boxed diff front should hold up?

you should brace the lower control arms on the front from memory they are a weak spot.

cam9022 wrote:didnt think so but had to make sure dont tell me that i just sold my 105r haha has anyone done the cape and kimberleys with IFS and howd'd it go?
a 2" lift all round with dropped boxed diff front should hold up?

Ive got a 03 100series 1HDFTE, 285/75/16 Copper STT's, 2" lift all round, 25mm diff drop in front, EFS springs and torsion bars, bilstien shocks. Superior Engineering kit.

Not happy with the shocks, they have a plastic stone guard that makes an annoying noise constantly as they fap! up and down the shock body. very annoying!.

rest of the lift is great, haven't installed the airbags that came with the kit but will when i get a camper trailer.

I did the cape this year, it was all a breeze. Old Telgraph Track was easy. Only daunting part is the creek crossings and suspension doesn't help you here.

There was another 100 1hdfte there with arb 2" lift, and twin diff locks, and it never looked like stopping anywhere, just walked through all the muddy shit that i had to carry speed through.

Fan blade pulled into the radiator on mine which fucked it. patched it with araldite, and it probably would have held forever, but got it replaced in bamaga.

I would suggest zip tieing the fan during creek crossings to stop it spinning which will stop it pulling into the radiator.

Aparently theres another toyota oem fan that can be fitted in there that wont hit the radiator, but probably doesnt move as much air.

cheers shadow, seen that kit on the superior website the stage 4 kit i wasnt keem on the shocks either might even see if i can swap them for something better, was gonna get a rear locker heared the front was pretty week to hold a locker but thats from ear to ear might end up goin front as well if convinced and have the coin. will be taking zip ties up cheers for that

cam9022 wrote:cheers shadow, seen that kit on the superior website the stage 4 kit i wasnt keem on the shocks either might even see if i can swap them for something better, was gonna get a rear locker heared the front was pretty week to hold a locker but thats from ear to ear might end up goin front as well if convinced and have the coin. will be taking zip ties up cheers for that

the locker in the front strengthens the front diff, makes it less prone to blowing teeth apparently.

The front ifs upper control a arm balls are a weak point. they handle about the same as a solid axle variant, mainly due to the standard shocks being rubbish.

A arm balls? is there a way of strengthening them, i have heard of people welding plates to the chassis were the a arm is bolted on to stop cracks to the chassis is that wat ur talking about?

cam9022 wrote:A arm balls? is there a way of strengthening them, i have heard of people welding plates to the chassis were the a arm is bolted on to stop cracks to the chassis is that wat ur talking about?

No the factory balls also fail. There must be something not quite right up there as the loads are obviously over stressing components.

I saw yet another failed ball over on Fraser on the weekend. I failed to check for any extra plates that may have been welded, or any cracks to the chassis. Unfortunately due to tides and our time schedule we were un able to assist the tourist in getting the thing back to Kingfisher.
This is the third instance I have personally seen the upper A arm fail.

One thing I have noticed is each one of the above were standard suspension and tyres???
Just something to be cautious of. There are plenty of IFS cruisers getting around without fault.

Just to clarify Grimace. You're talking about the upper ball joints? I've had a fairly large fleet of IFS 100s coming in for years and I've never even seen the slightest bit of freeplay let alone a failure. How common is this? Any links to further discussion? Keen to know more. LYLT.

RAY185 wrote:Just to clarify Grimace. You're talking about the upper ball joints? I've had a fairly large fleet of IFS 100s coming in for years and I've never even seen the slightest bit of freeplay let alone a failure. How common is this? Any links to further discussion? Keen to know more. LYLT.

I only know of the three instances were I seen it. Never researched it. Have herd stories but without proof I wont comment on them. But will say was told on the second instance (by the then owner of the cruiser) that it was a common occurrence? Now after seeing a third I think it is something to be wary of.

Funny on two occasions it was on a vehicle that was recently on a beach (bribie, and latest being fraser) the other instance I am unsure of when and how it failed but again it was the top a arm ball.
I also trying to recall, but I think every time it was the passenger side, if so it is probably just coincidence. Can't confirm this as my brain is a bit too fried atm.

But like you have stated, and my closing comment on my previous post there is heaps of cruisers travelling around without drama.
Kind of like the 3L hand grenade in the pootrols...

You can get a complete tube upper A arm from the states that uses a high misalignment joint instead of a ball joint.

It has extra clearance for the shock which lets the suspension droop another inch or two before it binds on the shock and balljoint.

[quote="Shadow"]You can get a complete tube upper A arm from the states that uses a high misalignment joint instead of a ball joint
will have a look into this A arm from the states and see wat the costs are.

cheeers

http://forum.ih8mud.com/jts-parts-acces ... ravel.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

this one uses a uniball at the top A arm.

something else has popped up in my head from a 4wd mag about a engine swap (1hd fte) to a gxl 105 solid axle front would like to know wat it would cost all up to do that as well as parts list, also will it match gear box, engine mounts and shit like that??

cam9022 wrote:something else has popped up in my head from a 4wd mag about a engine swap (1hd fte) to a gxl 105 solid axle front would like to know wat it would cost all up to do that as well as parts list, also will it match gear box, engine mounts and shit like that??

Thats what i was refering to above.

Hamo wrote:No they did not. But plenty of 105's have been converted.

The best info on that is on the Lcool site & you have to sign up for access.

Hamo

1hz and 1hdt 1hdft 1hdfte share engine mounts being essentially the same block

HZJ105 uses R series manual gearbox(weaker), HDJ100 uses H series manual. i believe the FZj105 might use the H series gearbox, but the input shaft is different?

Best bet is to get a complete 1HDFTE driveline from a HDJ100 or HDJ79, engine gearbox and TC. While your at it get the 5 speed auto cause its a great box! (4 speed auto not as good apparently)

Then theres all the wiring! i think killalux can do a plug and play engine harness for this conversion.

Don't forget the diffs, They are a different ratio due to use of the R box 4.3 i do believe.

James

yea cheers hamo ur comment made me look into it about, now im getting more interested in a conversion
so roughly how much would it be for a complete 1hdfte engine, gearbox and tc, getting a 5 speed auto and converting to manual and the wiring loom etc...
i searched the forum but couldnt find anything that gave good facts and prices.

shadow: thats the info im after thanx any more info throw it my way so i can understand wat im in for cheers

cam9022 wrote:yea cheers hamo ur comment made me look into it about, now im getting more interested in a conversion
so roughly how much would it be for a complete 1hdfte engine, gearbox and tc, getting a 5 speed auto and converting to manual and the wiring loom etc...
i searched the forum but couldnt find anything that gave good facts and prices.

shadow: thats the info im after thanx any more info throw it my way so i can understand wat im in for cheers

Most are buying written off 100's for around $10,000 & using the motor & gearbox + electrics then selling whats left.
Some have claimed (after selling off) about $6,000.
It would be better if you have a good motor to sell as most of them get done because theyve blow up a turbo 1hz.

I wouldnt worry about the diff's. Fit bigger tyres IE: 285/75/16 will bring it back to standard ratio's

Hamo

ok cool u have talked me into it.
now thats sorted on to the next thing on my mind
I read that the 100 series run really good with a 3.5" dump and 3" exhaust, if u were to run say 14-15psi through it would it run even better with the 3.5" all the way through or would u loose power and gain heat??

I've got a 3" mandrel with stock dump. The 100 series dump is apparently ok. The 79 series is restrictive and beau desert do a 3" mandrel dump for them.

cam9022 wrote:ok cool u have talked me into it.
now thats sorted on to the next thing on my mind
I read that the 100 series run really good with a 3.5" dump and 3" exhaust, if u were to run say 14-15psi through it would it run even better with the 3.5" all the way through or would u loose power and gain heat??

I run a Beudesert system on my 1hd-ft 80 series witch is 3 1/2" dump pipe & 3" mandrel exhaust @ 14-15lb boost.
I havnt heard of any one running a 3 1/2" system yet, But i would think there would be to many problem route ing that size aroubd the rear diff.
You would also run into problems if you wanted to upgrade the rear fuel tank to a long ranger.

Hamo
PS search pickles for a wreck

Shadow wrote:I've got a 3" mandrel with stock dump. The 100 series dump is apparently ok. The 79 series is restrictive and beau desert do a 3" mandrel dump for them.

I think you will find the beaudesert dump pipe is cast iron & 3 1/2"
This one's mine

They dont come like that though, Mines ceramic coated

Hamo

Hamo wrote:

Shadow wrote:I've got a 3" mandrel with stock dump. The 100 series dump is apparently ok. The 79 series is restrictive and beau desert do a 3" mandrel dump for them.

I think you will find the beaudesert dump pipe is cast iron & 3 1/2"
This one's mine

They dont come like that though, Mines ceramic coated

Hamo

Cool, is yours fitted to a 100series or 79 series?

i was told by beau desert that the 100series oem dump was not worth upgrading, have they changed thier opinion since then?

looks good hamo, so the stock dump is 3"?????? (the one u got shown here ^^^^^) is it 3" were the zorst bolts to?? looks like it changes diameter about 50mm back?

cam9022 wrote:looks good hamo, so the stock dump is 3"?????? (the one u got shown here ^^^^^) is it 3" were the zorst bolts to?? looks like it changes diameter about 50mm back?

Yes the stock dump is 3" & yes the beudesert is 3" for the last 50mm & 3 1/2" for about 200mm
Stock dump pipe on the left & Old style beudesert dump pipe on the right (note they are now cast iron)


Hamo

Hamo wrote:

cam9022 wrote:looks good hamo, so the stock dump is 3"?????? (the one u got shown here ^^^^^) is it 3" were the zorst bolts to?? looks like it changes diameter about 50mm back?

Yes the stock dump is 3" & yes the beudesert is 3" for the last 50mm & 3 1/2" for about 200mm
Stock dump pipe on the left & Old style beudesert dump pipe on the right (note they are now cast iron)


Hamo

is that sto0ck one from a 79 series hamo?

mine doesnt look like that, its got a much larger bend radius

Shadow wrote: is that sto0ck one from a 79 series hamo?

Hamo wrote:I run a Beudesert system on my 1hd-ft 80 series

Hamo