Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just an indication of how many people would A be interested in such a product

And a price they would be interested

I am able to draw them so i might be able to get them made cheeper than walking in with a sample to a shop where they need to reproduce them - (i know how hard it is to draw something from just a sample - can be a PITA)

My work will not make these for me - i spoke to them today and they said they wouldn't - so here is the next option.

Buddy

Consider me interested! Especially it they're just $50 like you suggested in the chit chat section.

i'm keen

I've already mentioned i'm very keen!!!

I will be more than happy to pay more than $50.00 bubs as i know how much they go for in the states!

Tell me when you want these axles for measurements!!!!

they will be more than $50

as i will have to source some where else to make them

bubs, I can have these made in canberra if you want a comparitive price to work with???

Wendle wrote:bubs, I can have these made in canberra if you want a comparitive price to work with???

Wendle, mate my computer is busted today and im posting from my mobile phone:

Can you get these made WITHOUT the c-clip groove on the inner? we will need a riser or we can make a spacer to go from the seal run?!?
What $$ are we talking? and what are they made of? grade of alloy?
WHO?

cheers
rob

The diff doctor. He is a dude I went to school with, he makes a living narrowing big strong diffs to fit into little ricers & I know he makes all his own axleshafts. So I can find out pricing, I don't know if it will be a good price or not, but I can find out?

Cool find prices and can he doa custom axle, i will only really need a short side, but I may purchase two of each.

Answer all my questions from my last post and I will let you know! Bubs, feel free to answer those questions aswell. I want alloy axles ASAP!

BJ - Fire your questions to the man himself.

(02) 6288 1628 - Ask for Rob.

bj on roids wrote:

Wendle wrote:bubs, I can have these made in canberra if you want a comparitive price to work with???

Wendle, mate my computer is busted today and im posting from my mobile phone:

Can you get these made WITHOUT the c-clip groove on the inner? we will need a riser or we can make a spacer to go from the seal run?!?
What $$ are we talking? and what are they made of? grade of alloy?
WHO?

cheers
rob

Removal of c-clip easy
Riser - post a pic of exactly what you mean
If i make them they will be 4130 chrome moloy

Consider me interested

bj what would u want changed compared to this

depending on price, i may be interested

bubs,

im keen as mate can they be custom made like any lengths we want coz in keen as dude

see where it necks down between the seal riser and the 27 spline section, at the back of that set of splines, there is a c-clip groove, just cut the splines to finish there, and start necking up straight away to the riser!

bj on roids wrote:see where it necks down between the seal riser and the 27 spline section, at the back of that set of splines, there is a c-clip groove, just cut the splines to finish there, and start necking up straight away to the riser!

The groove for the small C clip? I have martacks on mine and don't need that one.

2car wrote:

bj on roids wrote:see where it necks down between the seal riser and the 27 spline section, at the back of that set of splines, there is a c-clip groove, just cut the splines to finish there, and start necking up straight away to the riser!

The groove for the small C clip? I have martacks on mine and don't need that one.

i have a cross pin and dont need it anyways, but thats a different area not at the start of the splines, OUTSIDE the birf, sitting against the cage clearly visible at all times, that is the c-clip im talking about!

bj on roids wrote:see where it necks down between the seal riser and the 27 spline section, at the back of that set of splines, there is a c-clip groove, just cut the splines to finish there, and start necking up straight away to the riser!

bj how will you get full lock?

About 10 mm towards the splines from the seal riser the shaft is 28.3mm thin to allow the birf to get full lock.

It is a good idea to do away with the c clip groves as this is a weak spot, and just have the axle splines finish to stop the birf sliding towards the seal.

Pal wrote:

bj on roids wrote:see where it necks down between the seal riser and the 27 spline section, at the back of that set of splines, there is a c-clip groove, just cut the splines to finish there, and start necking up straight away to the riser!

bj how will you get full lock?

About 10 mm towards the splines from the seal riser the shaft is 28.3mm thin to allow the birf to get full lock.

It is a good idea to do away with the c clip groves as this is a weak spot, and just have the axle splines finish to stop the birf sliding towards the seal.

ive got my stops adjusted, i don't need to use that tiny area that I will lose! (it will equal less than a degree or two, id rather have the reliability!)

Or Will the steering lock stops stop the birf swiveling around far enough to hit on the axle .
Their fore the shaft could be thicker than 28.3mm?

What about the ring welded to the end of the longs does this require extra clearance to get full lock?

Pal wrote:Or Will the steering lock stops stop the birf swiveling around far enough to hit on the axle .
Their fore the shaft could be thicker than 28.3mm?

What about the ring welded to the end of the longs does this require extra clearance to get full lock?

pull yours apart and hold it in your hand, the longs stops it before full lock, but the toyota axle doesn't steer that far!

i will not organise custom length ones only stock relacement


want custom that what a drive line shop is for

bj on roids wrote:

Pal wrote:

bj on roids wrote:see where it necks down between the seal riser and the 27 spline section, at the back of that set of splines, there is a c-clip groove, just cut the splines to finish there, and start necking up straight away to the riser!

bj how will you get full lock?

About 10 mm towards the splines from the seal riser the shaft is 28.3mm thin to allow the birf to get full lock.

It is a good idea to do away with the c clip groves as this is a weak spot, and just have the axle splines finish to stop the birf sliding towards the seal.

ive got my stops adjusted, i don't need to use that tiny area that I will lose! (it will equal less than a degree or two, id rather have the reliability!)

bj I might be mis-understanding you, the part about *start necking up straight away to the riser*. If you mean to increase the shaft dia from the dia at splines to dia at seal, I don't believe it would increase reliability. The stress raiser at the c clip groove and finish of spline *is* a weakness.

HERE is what i'm talking about, clearly the red arrow is pointing to a broken axle, and the blue arrow shows the c-clip I am talking about, this c-clip sits in a groove, I want either a spacer or riser/lip, or end the splines HERE for the new axles the rest can stay the same, this is ALL I WANT!!! DONT HAVE A GROOVE, and maybe make a riser or end the splines, INSTEAD of the c-clip
GET ME?

BUT don't worry about it, cause all the experts know what they want! Cause THEY must be breaking them all the time

This is the axle I broke with my "make beleive" longfields, in my make beleive web wheeling dreams (thanks Grant, if you read this, do you wonder, HOW the stock birfs are holding up while the axles break? I wonder too

Bush65 wrote:
About 10 mm towards the splines from the seal riser the shaft is 28.3mm thin to allow the birf to get full lock.

It is a good idea to do away with the c clip groves as this is a weak spot, and just have the axle splines finish to stop the birf sliding towards the seal.

you can see the splines have twisted about 25%, and the axle has then sheared off, at the c-clip groove! This is all im trying to eliminate, I don't want to re-invent the wheel

Bj what John is saying and i totaly agrea is if you step the axle up with a straight shoulder for the CV to sit against instead of the C clip thenm you are doing nothing for its strength because the axle will still break on that shoulder.
Ending the spline right there with no shoulder wont work either as the birf will just end up jamed on the axle beacause it will push back on it till it starts to cut its own spline.
I think a spacer would be the best way to go then it could be machined to suit the tapered rise at the seal but still have a straight shoulder for the CV to rest against.

bj, you are dead right to address the elimination of the snap ring groove at the inner side of the cv. This is the critical section because of the stress concentration.

I took this photo of a 100 series axle that *doesn't* use a snap ring. It has a groove for the rolling process that produces the splines, but it's shape is slightly better than a snap ring groove.

Ruff's idea of a spacer has merit, the problem is the slope of the shoulder at the seal journal is not ideal for a spacer. The shoulder could be modified to suit a spacer, as shown on this sketch based on dimensions of a 100 series axle. Although this shoulder is a little worse as far as stress concentration goes, the critical section would still be where the cv is fitted to the spline. Extending the spline as shown and eliminating the groove should reduce the stress concentration considerably.

I have to make custom axles for the hybrid front diff in the bushie and I think I might make them this way, unless some better approach turns up.

bubs, do you have all the necessary spline data?

I took some quick measurements of the splines for 100 series front and rear axles. Still need to get some pins made so that I can get the *diameter over pins*.

The front axle at the cv end was 24 splines and the od was 31.7mm. The best *standard* match I found is diametral pitch of 20/40 and calculated od of 31.75mm.

The front axle at the diff end was 30 splines and the od was 32.6mm. The best *standard* match I found is diametral pitch of 24/48 and calculated od of 32.81mm.

The rear axle was 32 splines and the od was 34.2mm. The best *standard* match I found is diametral pitch of 24/48 and calculated od of 34.925mm.

By my eyeball, they are all 30 degree pressure angle, but I need to confirm this.

Once I get some measurements over standard pins I will determine the rest of the data. The pin diameters are 2.438mm for 20/40 dp and 2.032mm for 24/48 dp.