Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Becasue I am bit bored and want to try something to improve my cars balance on rocks, etc I am thinking of ditching the 5 link rear on the 4 Runner and duplicating the radius arm 3 link front on the rear. Idea is to have much better roll resistance on the rear and a more equal balance with the front.

Only difference would be the radius arms would taper in at the diff by about 100mm each or 200 mm out of parralell.
I can only see this possibly helping with a flex a little bit, but no down side.

Any thoughts peoples on the tapered rear radius arms in particular?

Cheers

I had a bundera that had 3 link front and rear. It was seriously top heavy, and wanted to roll for nothing. Not sure if it's what you are describing. Might be worth a look.


Cheers bru

i no a guy how put front radius arms in the rear of a 40 series not very successful think it had a lot to do with the way he set it up

Don't go backwards struth, buy or build a torsion sway bar for the rear.

bru21 wrote:I had a bundera that had 3 link front and rear. It was seriously top heavy, and wanted to roll for nothing. Not sure if it's what you are describing. Might be worth a look.


Cheers bru

That is a Major concern with this, limiting suspension too much and being cross angled too easily = wobbling around on two wheels risking a tip over.

Z()LTAN wrote:Don't go backwards struth, buy or build a torsion sway bar for the rear.

Probably right, I have some D22 torsion bars that have the same spline both ends and are about the right length, also a mate with a CNC shop that could do the arms.

Oh well back to the thunking board.

Is it worth limiting the up travel a bit on the rear since it moves about twice as far as the front?

i think you'll find a sway bar will do that for you anyways.

There's examples of a radius arm rear working and examples of it not working. There's a guy who used to be in here down your way who front and rear RA'd a zook with excellent results. Gwagen steve is his name and Gwagons also have front and rear RA's.

Perhaps triangulate the ra's with slightly inboarded chassis ends. That will free them up a bit anyway so you'll still get travel but only so far.

M

Yes I was aiming for a 200mm center difference on the rear, being 200mm closer at the axle end.

At the end of the day removing the brackets for the current lower arms at the axle and chassis isn;'t a big job, nor is it a big job to refit them alter. The top arm brackets do not have to be touched to trial the setup.

Where as a torsion bar type sway bar is probably more work.

Hmmmmmmm

I would use a falcon ute sway bar.

I have one here new but would be a pita to ship it to vic?

Its a Selbys one that has adjustable ends that would work sweet!

They are very universal.

Can you post a pic for me please or if it same size as an AU unit I can just go measure my ute.
One reason I have avoided a sway bar is because I would have to ditch my lovely stainless sub tank due the sway bar having to be rearward of the axle.
Mainly because of how I positioned the lower arms and the flipped 60 rear diff.

Cheers

EDIT: Very interesting my AU ute sway bar is almost the right size, no adjustability though.

rockcrawler31 wrote:There's a guy who used to be in here down your way who front and rear RA'd a zook with excellent results. Gwagen steve is his name and Gwagons also have front and rear RA's.

M

Rangie radius arms. Works well by keeping the roll stiffness under control and not chasing maximum travel, so may not impress everyone but it works.

That's the same radius arms front and rear yes?

Has plenty of flex for me and looks pretty well balanced.
Thanks for the pic.

Cheers

Struth wrote:That's the same radius arms front and rear yes?

Has plenty of flex for me and looks pretty well balanced.
Thanks for the pic.

Cheers

Steve is all about balanced ...