Outer Limits 4x4 Board

How long do you guys get out of a set of tie-rod ends? I put new cheapo ebay ones on my HJ47 for a roadworthy a few years back. Would of only driven 50-70,000km since then. They are now pretty much shagged with atleast 5mm of play in the ball joints. I expected them to last longer than that. I will try and get some genuine Toyota ones this time. How many kms do you guys get out of them? Could there be some larger problem at play that would explain why mine are suffering. My car has stock tyres, steering and suspension (including pencil thin dampener and tired old shocks)

I put new cheapo ebay ones on my HJ47 for a roadworthy a few years back

that is your problem, using cheap crap.

i use the OEM stuff, been pretty good, but the rubber boots perish easily. pedders usualy sell them.
just got to replace the rubber boots, got 10years out of mine, maybe 100k's.
still fine, soo far. 84 hj47 33 12.5 bfg muddies. arm strong steering.

the big one thats been replaced like 3times now is that CRAP idler arm at the front.
they fitted it the first time, 2nd, and i did the last time, soo easy.

I was in a bit of a rush to get my rwc so just settled for whatever. Will not get them again. Rubber boots are fine but the play in them is awful.

Doh, 2 weeks too late. Oh well mine are from Japan so fingers crossed.

So I called up toyota parts....$650 for what I needed and one had to come from Japan. Looks like a new pair of ebay ones are going on. :(

Ebay ones, I got ~20,000km. Switched to some decent ones from Repco, have 100,000km + on them now no issues.

Seems most dont come with grease added from the factory, and no grease nipple as well. planned failure

A little KY goes a long way

Yeah mine are all "sealed" except for the one on the pitman arm which is adjustable for wear and has a grease nipple.

poppywhite wrote:Seems most dont come with grease added from the factory, and no grease nipple as well. planned failure

A little KY goes a long way

Have you cut a new ebay/cheapy one apart?

dunno about other model cruisers but over here in NZ toyota are selling 70 series draglinks and tierods complete with balljoints on the ends for $45 plus gst each, they are ex japan and arrive withing a week with no freight charge on top

I got a genuine drag link + end (wasn't expecting the drag link to be included!) for not much more than an aftermarket end (which had to be cut down to fit my 75 anyway). I payed trade price - see if you can screw down your genuine spares people a little? The way my el-cheapo failed i'm considering replacing the rest (japanese aftermarket) with genuine though they still seem fine after ~80000km as i would expect them to!

yes red
The tie rod end I got from repco was greaseless, others for other vehicles over last long time have also mostly been greasless,

poppywhite wrote:yes red
The tie rod end I got from repco was greaseless, others for other vehicles over last long time have also mostly been greasless,

you mean they just dont have a grease nipple right?

they will definately have grease in there, they just dont need to be topped up for the life of the joint.

if they dont have grease, someone has stuffed up, metal on metal will not lost very long!

Shadow wrote:

poppywhite wrote:yes red
The tie rod end I got from repco was greaseless, others for other vehicles over last long time have also mostly been greasless,

you mean they just dont have a grease nipple right?

they will definately have grease in there, they just dont need to be topped up for the life of the joint.

if they dont have grease, someone has stuffed up, metal on metal will not lost very long!

No grease apparently....... not that I've checked personally tho... I will next time I buy one tho...

I just got and installed some from repco have "made in japan" written on them. Cost about $50 each. Have a bit of grease in them but no grease nipple.

My experience is that Toyota drag link end design is good - I like the way you can adjust them and rebuild if necessary. As for the tie rod ends, I find the after market ones seem to be fine for driving around on the road and last well, but they seem to be a bit of a consumable on my off road toy car and only I only get a couple of years out of them.

I also had a wheel alignment done once and the drag link was left at a large angle and it was chewing itself out just driving along on the flat. Fixed that by doing my own wheel alignments.

Bit the bullet and decided to change mine today but can't get them off, tried a bigger hammer and now the thread is starting to collapse what's your secret to getting them out.

Hit the end of the steering arm to squeeze out the tapered fitting (the eye end). Use a big hammer. It might take half a dozen sharp blows to shift but it should pop out. You won't hit it out by hitting the end where the castle nut screws onto - you'll just destroy the thread. But after some sharp blows on the end of the steering arm you can screw the castle nut onto the bolts and strike that lightly & it should pop out without damaging the thread. Most of the time it just pops out like on this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-iz ... creen&NR=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've tried those tie rod removing tools (the expanding jaw type and the fork type) but both of those just broke on my landcruiser. Plus they destroy the rubber boot but you'll be replacing the whole thing anyway.

It's a bit scary the first time as it seems unbelievable that it will work. Let us know how it goes.

Thanks mate, bought a seesaw style tool an snapped it, tried hitting the arm but didn't budge, may need a sledgie as best I had was axe. Will have another crack at it next week.

BJMorgo wrote:Hit the end of the steering arm to squeeze out the tapered fitting (the eye end). Use a big hammer. It might take half a dozen sharp blows to shift but it should pop out. You won't hit it out by hitting the end where the castle nut screws onto - you'll just destroy the thread. But after some sharp blows on the end of the steering arm you can screw the castle nut onto the bolts and strike that lightly & it should pop out without damaging the thread. Most of the time it just pops out like on this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-iz ... creen&NR=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've tried those tie rod removing tools (the expanding jaw type and the fork type) but both of those just broke on my landcruiser. Plus they destroy the rubber boot but you'll be replacing the whole thing anyway.

It's a bit scary the first time as it seems unbelievable that it will work. Let us know how it goes.

i fitted OEM stuff about 2001.
my uncle fitted them while i milked the cows, not a bad swap, after i see the effort he went to getting them off..
soo thought the boots would be stuffed, one looked soo.
soo got new boots, tie rods were fine, nice clean grease.
one boot had a small hole in it..
the rest were fine.
replaced 5 in about 2.5, 3hrs in the driveway, tyres on
damn missed a metal ring and got given the wrong size split pins..

that technique with the hammer is awesome
some took a bit to get, and with the wheels on but damn easy job

cheers buddy.. i was realy not looking forward to doing it, but it was a piece of cake..... quick too..

90,000km and about 12year.. pretty good out of a set of boots.. could have gone another 2years, but heading interstate..
want it to breeze past the qld pits
tie rods got plenty of life left

three cheers to BJMORGO HAPPY CAMPER

Thanks Cruzaamad

Apparently 555 joints are the go. Repco got mine for me last time, and I paid the regular price for them. Theyre reluctant to do the same for me again, in fact I'm still waiting on the phone call from November to say that theyre in..