Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys looking into the next stage of my build and am considering what diff setup to run. I am going get some fabricated housing and stay with the 60 series center but I was considering a hybrid housing using 80 series outers. I already have all the 60 series outers off my current housings so is it worth going to the extra expense of getting 80 series longs and basically buying a complete axle just to strip the swivel ball and hubs off? Has anyone got any numbers of the respective max load before breaking on each cv? I know that the 60 series is about 9000 ft/lbs at 40 degrees does any know the 80 series figures?

Not sure on stats but I know the 80 series cv is stronger, not the axles really as they are similar 30 spline. The 60 being same as lux is smaller but can be quite strong depending on what power plant/ gearing/ tyres you run.

For me my lux on 37's lux cromo cvs/axles are ok but it's only that I already got the housing made with lux stuff.

To buy a 80 housing and complete knuckle setup wouldn't be very expensive, just gotta look in the right places.

Or the other option is to get bare 80 housing for the knuckles, and buy the 6 shooter setup for a good strong combo, that would be my choice.

Brad

It's not alot of extra cost but you will be kicking yourself when you break it wondering if you made the right choice.
Just do it right the first time and go the hybrid.

Well that's my opinion

Yeah, I know the 80 series ones are bigger or stronger I was just hoping for a numerical value so I could justify it. It will be going under my cruiser but I'm planning at putting a LS1 with a TH400 in it so nothing massive power wise but still enough to break shit.

I ran standard axles and 27spl longs for 3 years without incident on 37s and 40s.

Yep I drive like a nanna for sure.

Sooner or later everything breaks, drive accordingly and I'm sure 60s longs will be fine.

If your going a hybrid housing why not use a GQ/GU hi pinion? GQ centre and 80 cvs in a Buds Customs housing would be good. But as stated 80 steering, brakes etc are dear.

Maybe just use the 60 gear you've got for now cause you've it and upgrade to a GQ/Dana hybrid later.

Well I'm sticking with the cruiser center because there is no way I'm running nissan bits in my toyota, the toyota gods would spite me to death or at least to bad luck with my racing. Also the only real advantage would be the hi pinion as I have never broken one or seen anyone break on that was set up properly. It might be an option to run 80 series gear down the track, it will just mean cutting off the bracing and swivel balls. How cheap could you make a hybrid housing with dana outers that would stand up to possibly 40 inch tires max.?

brad 93hilux wrote:
Or the other option is to get bare 80 housing for the knuckles, and buy the 6 shooter setup for a good strong combo, that would be my choice.

Brad

What 6 shooters suit 80 knuckles?


Why not just put a set of dana diffs under it?

I can't justify that expense to run 37's really

I've broken heaps on toy centers. And a few Nissan rears but never a front.

Don't worry about make or brand. I had a toy tcase in my Nissan for years! Ford engine and box, Holden brakes, Toyota case, MQ/GQ and cabstar bus, British master cyclinders. I've added Chevy brakes, ford knuckles, etc now lol

You'll break a 60 and 80s on 37's. 80 high pinion are so small! No wonder guys go GQ.

Much harder to break a Dana on 40s

You can get Dana's relitivley cheap look on pirate for built diffs and import!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-ti ... -rear.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Ok, so If I got something like that. How much would I need to fork out to get them up to spec to be reliable on 40" tires?

they will need to be re-tubed for correct offset.

Yukon superset for the front

its got DRW rear hubs so youll need to get SRW ones.

Disk conversion

Dont know if they are KP or not.. Forged knuckles and c's are great

Prolly looking at 10k built and landed, or 8k if you build here..

Far out, is there a cheaper option at all? Or is that it? I see 14 bolts are pretty cheap but you still need all the shiny bits hanging off them yeah?

Well it looks like I've got a Dana 70b for the rear ( Thanks Warren). Now I just have to sort out a front diff
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-ti ... -60-a.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Would something like that be the go?

Yea something like the above but your still up for inners and locker and its 8 stud.

I got my 14 bolt rear for $400 and a bare Chevy front for $400

I'm looking at spending $7800k for front built Chevy d60, 14bold rear with Reid outers solid 6 stud hub front and rears, disc brake front and rear, gear,s artec hi steer king pin rebuild kits, locked with chromo front axles.

You should be spending at least a 3rd of your budget on diffs. Without them you dont go far