Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Who has done this in NSW?

What's the process, does a engineer draw the plans and I just build it and he inspects to give the ok?

I got on google and I couldn't find the rta specs the trailer needs to be built to I could only find a form/ application to get it registered.

I want to build it with drive over guards open centre section chequer plater alloy where the wheels sit basically to suit the lux but as light as possible.

Or does anyone have some/can draw some plans that I can buy?
Thanks brad

11_evl has one for sale ATM, cheap too.

Know it doesn't answer your questions but its done

I don't know how it works in NSW but I am building a 4.5T Plant Equipment Trailer for a mate at the moment & I basically drew up a layout plan (top & side view) after googling similar trailers. I am lucky to have a good friend who owns a trailer/camper business & let him go over my design. He made sure my design was robust enough & that was it.
I went to Transport Dept & got a VIN no. & plate. Once I have finished it I have to give them dimensions & they inspect it. If they are happy they allow me to rego it.

Now for a good set of 3T car trailer go to trailerplans.com.au & buy the plans to there latest 3T car trailer. This will give you the correct layout & materials list & you can make your own adjustments to suit you with the drive over guards.




brooksy

You should look at going to the 3.5t rating gives you that lityle bit mor flex ability.

It'll add up quickly when you look at figures.

I also recommend having a full filled floor. I have used mine for heaps more that hauling my car. Moving house, picking up furniture. Got a car shell etc that wouldn't have worked without the full floor.


Evan

Ill have a look at the pre made plans, sounds like the go.

Think your right going up to 3.5T, would be more useful same as full floor.

Does anyone know where 11-evil has it for sale, as I'd be interested in that too.

Reason for building is the cost to buy one is between $4,600- 9,000 and I can get steel cheap from work and the old man works for Repco so can save quite a few $$ there. I'm guessing it'll still cost around $2500 at least to build but that's only a guess.

brad 93hilux wrote:Ill have a look at the pre made plans, sounds like the go.

Think your right going up to 3.5T, would be more useful same as full floor.

Does anyone know where 11-evil has it for sale, as I'd be interested in that too.

Reason for building is the cost to buy one is between $4,600- 9,000 and I can get steel cheap from work and the old man works for Repco so can save quite a few $$ there. I'm guessing it'll still cost around $2500 at least to build but that's only a guess.

Brad,
you're more then welcome to come sus out my trailer, 3.5T unless I put on a 70mm hitch then it would be 5T

Pm 11_evl

Yeah I might do that steve, do you keep it at home? I thought you didn't have one?

11_evl's trailer won't be rated high enough being 2T I reckon my lux would be close to that.

Cheers brad

With rear brakes the gym can be 2.8t if that helps

Thanks any way but I think I'll just build one will have a look at your steve and see weather I will buy plans or just copy yours

Thanks for the info guys much appreciated.
Cheers brad

Can someone that has built one give me a rough cost that it cost to build one? Even pm me if you want.
Had a look at trailer plans.com.au they have 2T and 3.5T gvm trailers but not with drive over guards.

Easy to make driven over guards which is why I mentioned that to you in my earlier post.


brooksy

Your bible for building trailers under 4.5t ATM is Vehicle Standards Bulletin 1, http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... ne2009.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

BUSTED100 wrote:Brad,
you're more then welcome to come sus out my trailer, 3.5T unless I put on a 70mm hitch then it would be 5T

Is your trailer fitted with air brakes?

hotgemini wrote:

BUSTED100 wrote:Brad,
you're more then welcome to come sus out my trailer, 3.5T unless I put on a 70mm hitch then it would be 5T

Is your trailer fitted with air brakes?

no electric drum all round, with break away

Then, unless you've got an alternative means by which to comply with the full (eg. not section 4) requirements of ADR 38, I'd suggest that your trailer would actually be limited to 4500kg ATM.

http://www.comlaw.gov.au/Details/F2007L02223" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hope this helps.

what ever you do dont do the same as the hire tandem trailers or their car trailers.
they use the worst ever spring setup between the front and rear spring

i towed one once and the friggen trailer NEARLY TOOK ME OFF THE ROAD IT SWAYED THAT MUCH 90km was it, any faster, and the trailer would have pulled me off the road, it was wet too

USE THE ROCKER SETUP.. the centre pivot.. what ever you call it.
it balances the weight between the front and rear axle, and i guarantee you a beautifull trailer for towing ITS AWESOME
we used to tow a race car, on my uncles farm going to race meets, it would tow awesome no matter how fast you were going, 140k easy..
even with an eratic driver towing the trailer, it never faulted !!

get the engineered drawings, its your safest bet..

brad 93hilux wrote:Who has done this in NSW?

What's the process, does a engineer draw the plans and I just build it and he inspects to give the ok?

I got on google and I couldn't find the rta specs the trailer needs to be built to I could only find a form/ application to get it registered.

I want to build it with drive over guards open centre section chequer plater alloy where the wheels sit basically to suit the lux but as light as possible.

Or does anyone have some/can draw some plans that I can buy?
Thanks brad

Hi Brad

I actually build trailers, horse floats etc so I can help you out with any info you need.

There is no need for plans at all you can build it how ever you like as long as it's within the specs posted above. We never use plans as we never build 2 the same. I'm not sure with back yard builders but all we do is take them to get a weigh ticket, brown slip and then registered. They may be strictor with you I'm not sure. The most imporant part is getting your spring hangers in the right spot or you will never get it over 60 km/h without the tail wagging.

The best place for qulaity parts and advice is to speak to Dean at Marshall Engineering. He is one very switched on dude who can help you with any tricky questions you may have as well as help you get the axles in the right spot so it tows good. Our aim is always to have about 160kg on the ball so thats really what you would want to aim for. That should change when loaded if it's loaded correctly and the axles are set out right.

The Marshall engineering gear is better quality then that crap Trogan sell it's just not worth the dramas buying the cheaper stuff. I'd personly get the 4 tonne kit as there is only a few hundred dollars difference in it.


http://www.marshall-eng.com.au/Tandem_Axle_DIY.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

BTW If your after brand new 4.5 tonne kit going cheap I have one sitting here that was going to be used for the same idea as you. I don't need it now and we just built a 6 tonne version for work.

Cheers Mick

Where do you work mick?

Thanks for all the help and info guys, that's what I need to draw up a plan and soon have a crack at it.

Thanks

evanstaniland wrote:Where do you work mick?

County Floats. We mainly build horse floats but will basicly fabricate anything.

Do you do gooseneck setups?

Yes we can

can you PM me a price for a gooseneck (70mm ball) kit for a 2011 landcruiser ute and the coupling

cheers

PM sent mate

Hi Mick,

Can you also PM me with that quote for a gooseneck type trailer please. Do you do trailer plans for this type of trailer?

Thanks