Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just wondering if anybody has seen the LT95 fitted with a remote shift ,

eg maybe in the foward control 101fc ?

Have one in my project i needed to get the shift to come back a bit before it can rise , the way i made the shift lever will work OK but not exactlly what i want , getting reverse thows a fiar bit of strian on the little pin in ball area of shifter , so might look at a remote from another mod or,modifing reverse lock out spring, to make the gate change easyer.

...Yes...thats how it works in a 101".

When I got my 101"s, the stub-shifter on the gearbox was missing (rough buggers in combat kit who had them before me broke them regularly..!!)

As I'm sure you'll have done, the 'hinging' pivot bolt on top needs to be
able to work forwards/backwards (no lateral slack at all).

The hinge point needs to be about 1 &1/2" above the ball, or the 'throw'
will be excessive & lever flex & twist will occur.

The most useful bits of metal for modifying R/R & L/R levers to suit the job are 3 old SWB spring shackle plates.....cut the drilled ends off to use as the eyes in the link rod & on the lever....They weld nicely, & are large enough that as wear occurs, they can be redrilled to take bigger bolts; tho' with care, grease nipples can be tapped into the edge of the two used on the levers.

A length of tie-rod or drag-link is a nice thickness tube to use for the link
& it is perfectly possible to make it all work without the levers being exactly in line.....as long as the L/R lever used to operate the other is able
to move sideways just fractionally more than the stub on the 'box.
(Use the remaining 4 shackle eyes to make the clevises on the ends of the rod...)

From what you say, do I understand correctly that you want the box lever to stay low (as if under a rear deck on an F/C), then rising up back of the engine...?

How much further must it come back before the rise..?

You may find it easier then, to make the stub lever L-shaped....with the
leg of the L-extension pointing forwards, then put the eye on the end of that, & have it rise from there. But I'd try to avoid going forwards more than 4-5" max before the pivot or it may not work fore/aft smoothly (& a triangular gusset will be needed above the ball on g/box...or it will twist the lever when selecting reverse)

Hope this is of some help....

Thanks nick , I thought maybe the 101 had a different housing on the top
but sounds like they added the remote on to the existing one.

I need to come back only about five inchs , the shift works fine at this piont for all foward gears but given the angle it binds on the pin in the ball area when reverse is being selected, revers seems to have quiet a strong detent spring , I havnt pulled the top of the box off yet, Have you seen the detent arrangment , do you think it would be possible to reduce the the pressure needed to select reverse ?

Heres a pic i simple added a piece of flat bar , ,The exit piont is right under the heater box wich i have already removed two inchs from.
Thanks for your relpy nick .

As I recall, reverse has a hinged piece on the shift rail that is held in the closed/lock-out position by a strong tension spring with 2 eyes. When you push the gear across, the lower end (below ball) pushes the hinged piece open.

Thanks bush,
Might have to get a spare shifter plate and have a play with the spring I thinks .

Dozoor wrote:Thanks bush,
Might have to get a spare shifter plate and have a play with the spring I thinks .

PM me an address, I'm sure I have one I can send to you.

Its taken me a couple of days to nut this one out, as what you are trying to acheive should be possible ...Without stressing the pin....after all, they are supposed to take (& do) the leverage from a much longer stick...

(I think) you would get the strain off the pin (which is being created by the short stub/long crank you have set up, maybe by having the short bar
coming offthe stub lever at a 45 degree angle from where it is now & towards you as you sit in the seat.....this would then create a slightly clock-wise throw as you pull for reverse, rather than the 100% anti-clock twist you presently have.

This should still work OK for forward gears & if it is a nice shallow-look
Corvette style shifter you seek, then experimenting with slight curves to the short bar should do the trick...??

Just a couple of thoughts anyway.... BTW...what on earth is it in...??

Thanks nick , BUsh is sending me a spare reverse lock out setupBig THanks Bush, so i can have a play with it to reduce the presure needed going to throw the heater and dash back in and try getting every tho out of the stick lenght before it comes in arearward direction , X the fingers .

Its a 89 sierra on a 76 Range rover Chass -350 chev Nick,
Slowly getting there. Thanks for the help guys.