Outer Limits 4x4 Board

After a handful of defect notices and some rust coming back through I have decided to chop my loyal 60 into a single cab ute. I'm after any advice or tips. Ill pay someone to cut and weld the panel in mod plate it. but I want to keep costs down so ill strip it and cut it then paint it once the panel is in.

Also anyone in Brisbane who can put the panel in and mod plate it?

i hear their pretty anal in QLD..
ive been holding off till now to get up and travel.

what they get you for on the defects.

if you have another car to use for work, or the pushy ..
you might pick up a decent body and do a swap, could take time finding a shell and all.

i think it might pay, for you to speak to an engineer, before the chop chop, they might be able to assist and tell you where to cut the body.
and then you can do that, as you said then find someone to finish it off.

ive heard horror stories where people get others to do it and cost a fortune, and never get car back for like ages..
that was regarding the 75series and coil conversion.. funny bastard too.

idealy a panel beater would be perfect for the job.
i know one such guy, that gets his work passed straight away.. hq sedan into a ute or something ?

also sometimes the cheap,... costs you dearly at the end too..

The defects have been for numerous little things. It's currently bright green so I am thinking ute chop and plain white might keep their interest away.

I drive it rarely, I think they just look at it because of the colour look up the rego see the defects and pull me over for a look.

I was planning on cutting it 10cm or so further back then neccessary that way whoever does the final cut has room to do whatever then need to do. It won't be fancy it will just be a flat panel with a window.

No tips to share (apart from your pm milo)

Good tools to take with me etc?

Should be some choppy chop pics next Friday if my mate is free to load it.

Hey mate, not too sure about the new laws that have apparently come into play up here in the last month or so, but a mate chopped my 60 cab a couple of years ago all from home and i got it blue plated no worries. Spoke to the engineer along the way and had a couple of inspections. I had carpeted all the interior (including the roof) but had to pull it back out so he could inspect some of the welding/plating.

so I guess tip 1 would be good communication with engineer,

tip 2 get the cab chop/seating capacity (and colour) done on the same mod plate/paper work and they should probably only charge you for the one modification and obviously it keeps all the paperwork together.

Tip 3 plenty of photos for engineer just in case

Tip 4 label all wiring/plugs well as it saves using a test light when trying to hook up new tail lights ect (that loom runs down just inside the bottom sill under the doors from memory)

Also try and use a hilux or the 60 rear window at the back, they are laminated automotive glass and cheap and easy to come by if you break one. If you get something cut to size will be a pain if it breaks.

Hope that helps a little,

Cheers, perko

Cheers for that, laws in that regard haven't changed I'm told.

Has thought of most of your tips except the window so thanks for that.

Didn't get a day off last week hopefully this week.

Has anybody got a chopped 60 in brisbane I could take a look at?

Buy a 105

Had the 105 for 9 months. Will keep the 60 for chop chop if it doesn't sell.

Lots of 80 series chops getting round on stalkbook, best one i have seen used the upper tailgate and roof panel that was chopped out for the rear. The ribs on the roof gave it a really nice factory look plus added strength. May be something to consider for the 60.

i used the top tailgate on my 60 chop and a rear cab middle section from a rodeo in bottom half as i wanted it to all look factory.i also used back of roof so i have gutter right round but fiddly job as you have to cut both sides so all roof ribs and gutters etc line up right.not sure about qld but in nsw factory glass is prefered by engineers

fatso wrote:i used the top tailgate on my 60 chop and a rear cab middle section from a rodeo in bottom half as i wanted it to all look factory.i also used back of roof so i have gutter right round but fiddly job as you have to cut both sides so all roof ribs and gutters etc line up right.not sure about qld but in nsw factory glass is prefered by engineers

throw up a pic if you took some photos

I have cut my ex GQ and a Jimny and its pretty straight forward.

Measure and mark it out. I scribe a line with a sharp tungsten for accuracy, as nikko comes off with burnt paint. Cut it within your skill limits - if you are good with a grinder 2-3mm off the scribe line is fine.
Use the 1mm discs on a 5" angle grinder and a hacksaw or reciprocating saw for the pillars.
I then use a sandpaper disk with a rubber pad (Norton) in the grinder as they are great for working the line in. Concentrate as doing edges with on of these is risky business (they grab if used incorrectly (pinched in corners etc), and can cut a chunk of rubber off the backing, making them way out of balance - they are then seriously hard to hold on to. I last did that on roof sheet 7m off the ground in a forklift cage- not fun)

Get the pillars square to the skin sheet - keep checking as it looks terrible on the inside if it doesn't mate up.

Work out what back to use and trim it the same way.
Align and tack it all. Its pest to flange the sheet with a handheld jenny, or bend it in at the joint so bog will cover it.

Weld in short runs and move often to avoid heat warping.

Apply bog, sand, paint.

I had mine blue plated once it was completed without issue but that was in 05.

cheers bru

Did any of you guys that have chopped add any extra reinforcement to the rear wall? Or is the fold and creases in the rear wall stiff enough?

aussiedogger wrote:Did any of you guys that have chopped add any extra reinforcement to the rear wall? Or is the fold and creases in the rear wall stiff enough?

most of the pics ive seen have a rhs frame inside.
across the rear

might as well throw in kids restraint anchor points while your at it..
for now or down the track..