Outer Limits 4x4 Board

So ive got my high steer on my 80 wagon, I've got one on my 80 Ute as well with the steering arm on top of the hs arm, my wagon is a bit lower so I'd like to run the arm under the hs arm.

This time I'm using std tierod end and was wondering if there's any reason you can't run a tierod upside down?



Wagon

The Ute setup, as u can see the hole for the bolt/tierod is verticle, so it wouldnt put the tierod on any weird angles.

As long as it all fits and there's no clearance issues, there's no issue at all if the question is purely UP vs DOWN.

Baja Burley wrote:As long as it all fits and there's no clearance issues, there's no issue at all if the question is purely UP vs DOWN.

Yep as long as running them upside down has no adverse affects, then I'm happy !v

No problems. In case you didn't notice, the ball joint at the steering box is upside down on an 80 series

The only problem is if you have tapered tie rod ends. The bolt section that goes through the steering stem. Most of them are tapered so they won't physically fit upside down. But if that isn't the case then no problem. Go for it.

oldmate wrote:No problems. In case you didn't notice, the ball joint at the steering box is upside down on an 80 series

Haha oops, my bad

toughnut wrote:The only problem is if you have tapered tie rod ends. The bolt section that goes through the steering stem. Most of them are tapered so they won't physically fit upside down. But if that isn't the case then no problem. Go for it.

That bit is all good mate, I have a sleeve that welds in with the taper in it, so I can put it in which ever way I need

The taper at the steering box end can be reversed with a reamer, I've done it on my old patrol. worked a treat.

crankycruiser wrote:

toughnut wrote:The only problem is if you have tapered tie rod ends. The bolt section that goes through the steering stem. Most of them are tapered so they won't physically fit upside down. But if that isn't the case then no problem. Go for it.

That bit is all good mate, I have a sleeve that welds in with the taper in it, so I can put it in which ever way I need

You cant weld steering components at all. Instant defect.

I do happen to own a reamer designed to cut the correct taper though.

The old and the new.

There's not much I can do about having to weld it in. That's the way it comes. Also a mate in tas got his hellfire high steer engineered, so must be able to pass it ?

Also I have a reamer as we had to turn up a new bush, but it won't help due to the size of the hole in the arm.

See the hole in the arm where the bush welds in... Not much I can do about it unfortunately.!

for anyone that may be interested, heres the finished result.

No point worrying about welding in the taper when you have welded strongbacks to the tierods themselves

J Top wrote:No point worrying about welding in the taper when you have welded strongbacks to the tierods themselves

One day I'll replace that with a proper arm.... It was a temporary fix years ago............

Pretty sure the no welding steering components is more to do with cast iron parts as the heating changes the metallurgy and causes the metal to crystallise and break, or some such.

Billet high steer arms shouldnt be a problem or at least fabricated from steel plate items.

crankycruiser wrote:for anyone that may be interested, heres the finished result.

Any issues Cranky?

How much lift does your wagon have?
I'm assuming your reason for running tierod upside down is for clearance to the chassis?

It's all running sweet mate! Very happy with it.

Yeah it's for chassis clearance, if it was on top I'd lose a bit of up travel.

It's only got 4" under it.

Sweet. Looks good.