Outer Limits 4x4 Board

A quick question, my old amn knows how to adjust the valve clearances so he said hed show me, is the principle the same between petrol and diesel motors? if so, what are the required specs?

Set cyl 1 at TDC (mark on crank pulley aligned with timing case mark) Cyl6 valves should be rocking--inlet opening and exhaust valve closing.
Adjust valves 1,2,4,5,8,9 to 0.35mm with a feeler guage

Rotate engine so valves on cyl 1 are rocking and mark on crank pulley is aligned with mark on timing case. Adjust valves 3,6,7,10,11,12 to 0.35mm

Nick

Might sound kinda basic, but how do you perfectly align the timing marks to set the motor to TDC???

An ozy, I'd strongly recommend that you splurge out and buy the service manual... a very worthwhile $40-50 investment if you are going to try your own servicing.

So how does everyone rotate the motor when doing the valve clearance?

Is there a trick to it?

I was going to use the front crank bolt but that's a big sucker nut which I don't have a socket for.

Do you need to remove the glow plugs or can it be done sealed?

Cheers,
Kris.

Jack up both axles on one side of the car--engage freewheel hub and rotate front wheel is the way i used to do it--now i use a socket on the crank pulley

NIck

when i did mine on my TB42 i pulled off the fan on the front and used a i think it was 27mm socket on the crank and good long ratchet to turn the motor around

I use the nut on the power steer pump, turns it over easily enough and set exhaust and inlet to 12 thou.

Cheers, Jeff.

Woop wrote:Jack up both axles on one side of the car--engage freewheel hub and rotate front wheel is the way i used to do it--now i use a socket on the crank pulley

NIck

Sounds like a plan, will give that a go tomorrow.

matthewK wrote:when i did mine on my TB42 i pulled off the fan on the front and used a i think it was 27mm socket on the crank and good long ratchet to turn the motor around

Not sure what nut you have but the big bastard on the front of my GU TD42 looks to be about 50mm+. I've got up to 32mm sockets and it just laughed at them ...

Dak wrote:I use the nut on the power steer pump, turns it over easily enough and set exhaust and inlet to 12 thou.

Cheers, Jeff.

Interesting, wouldn't have thought that turning by one of the belts would be "grippy" enough to crank the engine. I assume this is with the engine still "sealed"?

Either way, thanks for the tips guys, will give it a go tomorrow.

hey shaun , normally we take the glow plugs out, makes it a bit easier and u can normally turn off one of the belts with a bit of pressure on the belt with the other hand to tighten and help it turn a bit . the clearances are 35 thou but i'm not one hundred percent sure if gu and gq is the same , we set my gu to 38 thou slightly loose as they tighten up and we reckon its minimally better for torque??( on petrols its slightly better and less time between the next adjustment) and my mates gq we set to 35 thou . most of the time they will be tight as thats what diesels do , and setting them usually won't reduce much engine noise as we were hoping on my mates gq but it will make a difference to performance well it did on ours .

Dak wrote:I use the nut on the power steer pump, turns it over easily enough

Cheers, Jeff.

second that

another way to rotate motor is to put it in gear, handbrake off and rock vehicle back and forwards till No1 or 6 are rocking.
Easy.

eighty8 wrote:another way to rotate motor is to put it in gear, handbrake off and rock vehicle back and forwards till No1 or 6 are rocking.
Easy.

Does it matter if i use reverse or drive.. Cos in drive the car just rolled down the driveway and the motor didn't turn over

I used the pulley on the power steering pump as well.
Works fine. Just apply a bit of pressure to the belt to stop it slipping.
The whole thing is easier to doe with 2 people.
One can crank and the other adjusts.
(I have to sit "in" the engine bay to adjust the tappets...... bloody 5"lift and 35s........)

I take my glow plugs out and put the car in gear and roll it.