Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I just picked up a set of Dana 60's out of an f truck and would like to run them in the buggy im building, But the i will need a drivers side drop front, How hard is it to covert over to a drivers drop? or who in Brisbane would be able to do it?

I have tried searching on Pirate for it but most just pick up a new housing from the wreckers as it cheaper over there but i cant do that here in aus.

Buds Customs and OutCast off-road down the Gold Coast

Mate its fairly simple. The axel tubes come out press them back in and weld in place fairly easy and Diff mob should be able to do it. But as Ben just said Buddy would be good to go talk to is your looking to do upgrades as well.

Why do you need a Drivers drop? Wouldnt it be easier to find a different transfer case ?

It's not so simple as Dave said you need to shorten the long side and lengthen the short as the cross pin in the centre is off set hope that helps cheers Greg (outcast offroad)

Which then means custom length inner axles as well as cutting off the inner C's and rotating them (c*&t of a job) or buying a set of Reid inner c's for 500-600 bucks.

Just make your car a passenger drop. I did it that way and frankly i'd do it again as it means you have your driveshaft on the opposite side to the starter on an LS engine

Only drawback is the axles can't be plonked under a lot of aussie 4x4's with a standard transfer case.

VooDoo wrote:Why do you need a Drivers drop? Wouldnt it be easier to find a different transfer case ?

I already have the Engine Auto and Transfer, i was originally going to use a different set of diffs before these popped up.

look at selling the passanger drop one and getting a chevy drop d60 from the US. can get them already build fairly cheap.

my concern is as far as i know all chevy drops are Low pinion and the one i have is a Hi Pinion and im not real keen on running a low pinion up front.

This is true. My chevy drop is low pinion but don't see it being a problem.

I'd stick with Hipinion passenger drop & change Xfer. Simplest & cheapest option


brooksy

I agree that changing the transfer is the cheapest and easiest way to go
but flipping it to drivers side isn't so bad you wont need custom axles and cutting the c's off is about the hardest part .

What are the options for Passenger drop transfers, all i know is a np205. Would it be possible to flip an LT230. I know someone on here was talking about it a while ago but i dont know if they ever did it.

4_low wrote:What are the options for Passenger drop transfers, all i know is a np205. Would it be possible to flip an LT230. I know someone on here was talking about it a while ago but i dont know if they ever did it.

NP208 is also a possibility depending on gearbox, many 205's (whilst bigger) have crap low ratios
You could also flip/clock a dana 300, ratios and twin stick kits are readily available
Or stump up the cash for an Atlas or a Stak out of the US.
There is an Atlas 4 speed for sale at the moment

There is an LT230 being run flipped in a buggy atm. Seems to be hanging in there so far

This is trying to be a budget build, But the budget is looking less and less possible. If i ran a 205 i would probably put a doubler in front of it something like a 203/205 setup but that adds extra length that im not keen on. Im looking towards the end of the year before i will be ready to start bending tube for the buggy as im currently in the middle of building a house and that seams to take priority for any spare funds so any deals at the moment need to be a absolute bargin to be able to get the money.

Offroadboss, do you have any more info on the buggy or pics as im keen to see how they did it?

why not look for a 2nd hand atlas of pirate and ship it over?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/engines- ... speed.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Evan, I might just do that by the time i buy an Lt230 and then adapt it to the transmission and put a rebuild kit into it plus the cost of converting the diffs i would be getting close to the price of a used atlas, plus with an atlas i get front and rear disconnect and better ratio selection.

evanstaniland wrote:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/engines- ... speed.html

That's still $3000aud + by the time it gets here, and then the outputs need to be modded to suit ( or flanges/yokes purchased and changed over to suit) and an adaptor made or purchased to suit gearbox if necessary.
Assuming its not rooted when you open it up.

You could run a divorced Sierra transfer and run the input as the output and the front output as the input

Everyone is so wise... but few have done it..

the Stock C's are the same left to right, measure from the Cast housing out equal on each side cut the tubes, sleeve the housing and swap tubes over.. Axles will then fit as they would in its orginal configuration just on opposite sides . Set your steer angles equal each side and reweld... there is thousands of threads on Pirate that should you how to do it..
You will never press the tubes out without breaking the centre housing, this was told to me by one of the best in the business in the states when i did mine Wayne Israelen king of shock tuning..

Thanks MogLux, I was just reading through your build again as your build is going to be very similar to mine. What did you use as a sleeve?

4_low wrote:Thanks MogLux, I was just reading through your build again as your build is going to be very similar to mine. What did you use as a sleeve?

mine for sale.. just buy it im moving overseas as soon as i can...

well if you butt weld the tubes it will not be strong enough.. machine a tube that fits inside the tubes and plug weld.. no different to like joining cage sections in repairs etc..

That was how i was thinking, cut put a sleeve in and then grind a big bevel on both ends of the tube and weld it up. The run a truss across the top from c to c.

Moglux my comment about the C's was in response to the idea of flipping the housing and/or pressing out the tubes. It didn't occur to me that if you pressed out the tubes you could just re-rotate the castor angle to suit

I hadn't thought about sleeving the cut tubes but. Good way to do it i guess. Did you do a chamfer on the inside of the sleeve so the inner axles don't catch on the lip and make it a bugger to get them in?

Just thinking out loud here

Is it worth maching the inside of the cut off ends and the tubes so they're perfectly round, then machining the sleeve so the OD is 1-2 thou oversize. Heat the axle tubes before inserting the sleeve so when it cools it's an interference fit.

Just to help provide more support after welding, also to help keep straightness during the process with the amount of heat you put in. You could also drill a couple of holes in the factory tubes so that you can rosette weld to the underlying sleeve

Or i could be overthinking it

rockcrawler31 wrote:Moglux my comment about the C's was in response to the idea of flipping the housing and/or pressing out the tubes. It didn't occur to me that if you pressed out the tubes you could just re-rotate the castor angle to suit

I hadn't thought about sleeving the cut tubes but. Good way to do it i guess. Did you do a chamfer on the inside of the sleeve so the inner axles don't catch on the lip and make it a bugger to get them in?

Axle wont catch on sleeves axles are line 40mm ID of tube is like 75mm alxe seals are inside centre not at ends of the tube on a steer axle also .. sleeves are there just to stregthen the tubes where you weld them and to help keep the tubes straight ... tapper each tube end so you can get good penetration plug weld the sleeve in and all will be good

4_low, if you want more info on the LT230 call Bruce at All Metal Magic, on 55 746 919. Tell hi what your looking at doing, he's very interested in all this sort of stuff

I got Currie RockJock housing cut & shut passenger to drivers on a Winch Lux. Can't remember cost but it wasn't much change out of $1k by a Drag Racing builder. Long side was cut to suit short & opposite knuckle was machined off & slipped on & welded. Opposite had knuckle welded into new tube & put over machined sleeve & welded onto original short side tube. Was a tidy job & knuckles were only .2 deg out. Got caster set at 5 deg.
Tubes were 60 deg chamfered with 3mm gap so root run welded sleeve & 2 plugs on each side of joined long side.


brooksy