Outer Limits 4x4 Board

All done now.

Now have 1" extended shackles f+r
2" lifted rear springs all round
RUF

Small 225/75 tyres till i get the 31's

We did the RUF by cutting the fixed mount of and relocating back about 2".

Sits a bit higher in front at the moment. Will prob make up some bigger shackles to compensate the front moving

No shocks in photos as I have not bought any yet.

photos below

That's a different way of doing it. The Vic guys will have kittens coz you haven't moved your axle forward (:finger: Grimbo, Greg, BigSteve, Gwagend00d etc) but for 31s you should be golden.

PLUS the cool thing is when you DO go ahead and do a chassis extension you can go ahead and put even loooonger springs on. Yeah man!!

So you have actually managed to do a RUF and shortened your wheelbase by doing it

Can i ask why you have done it like this? Seems that when you go to 31s you will have firewall clearance issues. If I'm getting my 34s to touch the corner of the firewall with my RUF and 2" bodylift I reckon your 31s will more than touch they will foul big time causing alot of damage. Have you test fitted 31s to make sure they will fit

Wheelbase is the same as before, if not slightly forward.

Forgot to mention that I also redrilled the springpad about 1" back and also the the Ubolt pad under the spring relative to the springpad.

:-) whoops. forgot that one.

cheers

Now I'm confused. When we have RUF we have moved the axle about 1.5" forward of where it was. You have moved your rear mount back 2" (so that is now -.5" backwards) plus you redrilled the spring pad a further 1" backwards (so now -1.5")

Hmmm,

Where I moved the rear mount back, the end is in the sort of same spot as the RRO kit. I had to move the axle back so the tyres were not in the bull bar. I can easily move the axle forward (to the factory spring pin position )after I do some cutting and I have the 31's. This was so I could drive it after the springs were in and no more modding as of then as I had to drive the zook straight after spring swap.

Also the helper spring is also taken off.

cheers

There are a few advantages with RUF: here are all I can think of.

a)Brings axle forward 1.5" to clear bigger tyres.

b)Gain 4" of droop (with the right shocks)

c)Improved ride

d)Massively improved balance, which is an effect of A and B, but mostly A

I have not read it the same way Grimbo has, I reckon you have 0.5" over stock wheelbase.

Therefore, even with with 2" body lift, you will be limited to a 31, and you have not really improved balance. I don't even think that you will see all of the ride improvement, because the longer wheelbase alone helps to reduce pitching.

It is an "elegant" way of doing it in that the car looks very stock, but IMHO it will perform pretty much stock too.

I have seen two cars set up in a similar way. Neither of them seemed to work anything like a chassis extended car. Not sure what happened to one of them, but the other one belongs to Josh, a vic club associate member, andn he now has hilux rear all round, spua, and all sorts of moved mounts.

Note - if you go with the right length shocks with RUF done either way, there will be tyre contact between inner guard/shock mount and the tyre if you have NT axles, annything over 30" tall and "sensible" backspacing.

Yeah, sure you can run way long springs now if you add an extension, but personally, I would have done the extension first to get all the RUF gains, and a large tyre in, then moved the back mount back if Iwanted to loose control with funky long springs.

Sweet mate well done.

I see what you are saying. I have basically just done my own RRO kit instead of bolting plates on I have cut and welded the rear mount.

Same as Camo has done.

cheers

Still trying to understand why you did it this way. It would have been a little less work to extend the chassis at the front, move the shackle mount and off you go. Less work and better result.

vitarajim wrote:Still trying to understand why you did it this way. It would have been a little less work to extend the chassis at the front, move the shackle mount and off you go. Less work and better result.

how is it less work to extend the chassis?

looks good just get some bigger tires under it

are u happy with the flex u r gettin out of it? or u thought u would get more?

The chassis extension i found to be quite easy. With the increase of wheelbase comes better stability and less rubbage on the firewall associated with the larger tyres that most of us want to run.

I guess the amount of work is may vary depending on the equipment available and the desired result.

In the end if he's happy with the result, thats all that matters. But i see no reason to go that way, do all that work and miss out on the other advantages associated with RUF.

vitarajim wrote:The chassis extension i found to be quite easy. With the increase of wheelbase comes better stability and less rubbage on the firewall associated with the larger tyres that most of us want to run.

I guess the amount of work is may vary depending on the equipment available and the desired result.

In the end if he's happy with the result, thats all that matters. But i see no reason to go that way, do all that work and miss out on the other advantages associated with RUF.

so u have 1 inch longer wheelbase doin it your way?? what else?

Thats alot more flex then he had before, and for what he has planned it will most probably work well.

If he did a chassis extention it will decrease his approach angle, and with out the bigger tires eg: 33+ he would not gain it back compared to the diff in the stock location.
Also he does not have the fab skills or tools to pull a chassis extention.

At this stage I think he is on a very tight buget and this is an excellent upgrade at a very low cost

Read post above from Gwagensteve.

so with the chassis extension u have one inch longer wheelbase

he gets the better ride and flex that ruf gives

and he would have a better approach angle then if he did the chassis extension

he is only goin to 31's

so i reckon he done it the best way

it would be also harder for a cop to spot the rear hanger moved back then the chassis extension

Thanks for the praise and comments. Was quite easy as there is one cut and weld of the hanger. no bootie fabbing needed.

Dewse is correct and also if i extanded wheelbase I have to move bull bar as well. Wouldnt look very nice with bull bar 4" from front of vehicle.

$ is tight and I could probably managed it but 32" is probably this biggest I will go. If I want 34x9s I will cut the guards out.

You could not pick the mount moved once I have cleaned it up and covered it mud. Looks legal enough for me.

cheers

Well done, as i said, if it works for you that's all that matters.

redzook wrote:looks good just get some bigger tires under it

are u happy with the flex u r gettin out of it? or u thought u would get more?

That is what we are getting at, he will struggle to fit anything bigger than a 31" The firewall will get in the way and from that position he won't be able to cut enough to clear any bigger. if he thinks that 31s are as big as he is going then cool, nice clean job but we all that you will want to go bigger

No question that it is neat to do the way you have, jus that you won't have all the gain.

with a 2" body lift and the chassis ext. an ARB bar sits very neatly onthe top of the extension on a couple of little brackets and will not sit forward of its current position and the relationship to the body will be spot on.

Greg's car ran like this when he was HT and had the ARB bar.

There is some discussion about how much extra flex you have picked up. Until you do shocks, you won't have picked up any.

A few thoughts: You have gained more lift than we do with ours becuse you have dropped both ends of the spring. You will need a shock with around 10" of shaft travel to get the most out if your new setup.

As the articulation increases, the compressed wheel actually gets higher up into the guard as the drooped wheel falls away.

I have only ever RUF'ed cars with a 2" body lift, and I have found that the tyre needs more room than you would imagine, once the right shocks are in there. Grimbo's car was rufed with N76 OME's and NT springs, and to get enough offset onthe rim to keep the tyreout if the shockmount /inner guard etc, he was a LONG way into the firewall (i.e getting mighty close to the throttle.
that was with 34's with the axle the full 1.5".

I would say that you will want 2" of body lift and some creatively offset rims to run a 31 with full travel with your current wheelbase and proper shock length. I would avoid going into the forewall with cutting - this gets VERY complex and messy. This is most of the reason that we do teh extension - it gets you up to a 34 and leaves the cutting on the guard only.

Or you could buy my 29's at a good price

Grimbo the problem is that he doesn't have the cash to go bigger then 31's because of gearing costs etc.

Body lift is no prob, if he just comes over when i've finished mine.

leave the dude alone... he's done it this way, and seems to be happy with it. all this advice after the fact is just irritating, "i know better than you, you shouldn't have done it that way, do it my way instead". not everyone is going for huge tyres and max performance in every facet of their mods!!

[/rant] (having a crappy day at work)


looks like u've done pretty tidy work nicbeer.. you've got more flex then before, and it still looks pretty stock (avoids attention from the pigs)

i do believe that no one has said he has done it wrong. What people are discussing on an internet based DISCUSSION site are simply different alternatives, advantages and disadvantages.

There are many people with different applications, opinions and methods around here. That's the best thing about an opinion, it's never wrong. It may vary from someone elses but it's not wrong.

Nobody has ragged on him for doing it this way, we're simply discussing other advantages in doing it with chassis extension and others are voicing their opinion as to why they believe it is done better by moving the hanger backwards.

Hope you get the point. It's discussion.

think 'bout if you'd been in his position, just done a mod and are happy with it... then u post up 'bout it and everyone's goin on 'bout how it shoulda been done different.

anyway, i'm over it... sorry for ranting in ur page nicbeer

stumped wrote::roll:

think 'bout if you'd been in his position, just done a mod and are happy with it... then u post up 'bout it and everyone's goin on 'bout how it shoulda been done different.

anyway, i'm over it... sorry for ranting in ur page nicbeer

It's okay stumped I got the same impression a bit, but it does just come down to experimenting. If people did experiment and make a t bucket we would still be modding horses and jumping them down cliffs

This mod really suits nicbeers requirements and if he wants bigger tires later he may rethink his design, or he may use longer spings hilux ifs as an example and extend the chassis.

oops, me looks to started a bit of fun.

Thanks stumped.

As I have said I have just copied the RRO Kit. If that was no good they probably would not sell it.

All points taken. Just thinking bout them at a later date...

Found Links to RRO bits:

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=

cheers

the RRO is usually used with a SPOA so the firewall clearance issue isn't a problem. We haven't been bagging what you have done just pointing out a couple of things you may have not been aware of that's all

Thats fine, Bag away.

Going by rro its spua. oh well.

cheers for all.

grimbo wrote:

redzook wrote:looks good just get some bigger tires under it

are u happy with the flex u r gettin out of it? or u thought u would get more?

That is what we are getting at, he will struggle to fit anything bigger than a 31" The firewall will get in the way and from that position he won't be able to cut enough to clear any bigger. if he thinks that 31s are as big as he is going then cool, nice clean job but we all that you will want to go bigger

A question for those that have extensions, my RUF is done similar to this as with diff moved forward the steering bound up and even 31's rubbed big time. With it moved back to stock at full stuff the tyre still touches under the headlight so how do you guys get 34's in? Big bumpstops or lots of hacking?

Nice job Nicbeer looks sweet

U realise now u have 3" of lift you have to do a swerve test wich cost $1000 or your not insured. 50mm all up (susp and tyres) is all you can have in wa have fun.