Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey dudes

i have a 1hz, 160 thousand kays, and i want to make sure that it is as clean as possible inside. I know that oil is supposed to be black as it picks up contaminants to take them away at oil change time but....

1. how good are the after market flush additives you add just before a change, and can anyone recommend a brand

2. is using a cheapo kmart brand oil to do a quick flush and pick up any extra s**t in the galleries before using my normal oil a bad thing (ie. mixing oil brands)

3. can anyone tell me of any other ways to do this.

4. in another thread someone mentioned using a litre of diesel, but i am not too convinced it's safe - any comments

5. any other ways of doing the job.

6. i am using penrite HPR Diesel, any one else who thinks its a good brand.

cheers

P.S.

the reason i am so paranoid about this is because on my old nissan four pot, i took off the head and it was full of jellied oil and crap in the galleries. And i used to service that one very regularly.

PPS

if your fuel injector pump is crap and is injecting too much fuel, it will grenade your nissan four pot in a most spectacular way!!!

Allot of people have mixed views on this, but i spoke to a family friend who is a diesel mechanic and he said buy 5lt of kmart oil, mix in say 500ml - 1lt of diesel and once you have dropped your oil, flush that through for about 5min with the engine just sitting idling. Then drop that and put in your new oil and filter and it should be good.

Other than that, there are several flushes around, Flash Lube or the CEM oil flush that seem to be farily reputable.

Or u can just change your oil every 1,000km.

Aslong as u use a good quality oil, Penrite HPR is good, thats what i use.. you shouldnt have much trouble.

Your not going to stop the oil jellying under the rocker cover, it will do that clean or not. If your worried, changing the oil more frequently will minimise the gunking up.

rockcrawler31 wrote:
6. i am using penrite HPR Diesel, any one else who thinks its a good brand.

is that Penrite the 20W60? it's too thick for japanese diesels - toyota specifies a 10W30 (5W30 for cold conditions!) for this engine! I have tried a variety of oils in mine and find the thinner ones give better startup pressure and maybe slightly better fuel economy. thicker oils are also prone to film shearing at higher rpm which can result in meta to metal contact in the bearings which is a bad thing so unless your engine is badly worn, and it shouldn't be at 160kkm, stick to thinner oils.

opinions are divided on what to flush with, or not. the small amount of diesel mixed with 5 litres fresh oil sounds like a good compromise. The 1HZ isn't as prone to sludging as the earlier toy diesels but it still happens. the best way to keep a lid on sludge is to change the oil regularly and make sure the fuel delivery isn't over rich.

The penrite HPR light deisel is a 15W40 i think

Yeah im interested in this one too, cos i change my oil every 5 or 6k and ive niticed that if i dont go on a long run every now and then my tappets sound like they arent getting enough oil. im wondering if i am suffering from too much sludge in there.... someone did say that it can take up to 45 mins of running the motor before all the s*&$t burns out the oil and the oilways unblock. next time i drop the oil i am gonna go for a long run, get the oil realy hot, then use a flush product . i am using castrol RX super diesel oil.
is this good or is there better

RX Super is a very good diesel oil. I use GTX diesel (lower rating), the Castrol distributor told me if I use RX Super my engine (275 000 km) may acutally start to use oil because RX Super has a much higher detergent content and may clean the engine too much causing it to use oil. He said RX Super is fine in a newer motor which has had regular oil changes.

Diesels dont like short runs, due to the acids which are produced as a byproduct of the combustion process. The oil needs to get hot to burn off these acids which can attack bearing metal. Cold running (short triop) engines generate a lot more sludge as well. If you look at the usage history of a very high mileage diesel, its most likely done a lot of continual work. Short trip diesels tend to wear out a lot quicker.

So, if you just need to go to the shop for a carton of milk, take the wifes car! (or walk) and make sure your thermostat is installed and working!

I just (last night) drained all my oil put in about 3 litres of diesel and let it run for about 5 mins idling. Then drained the diesel and put in all new oil.

Any probs with doing this, heard it works a treat, looked like it did diesel was black as. First time I have ever done it though.

DUR71 THOUGHTS wrote:I just (last night) drained all my oil put in about 3 litres of diesel and let it run for about 5 mins idling. Then drained the diesel and put in all new oil.

Any probs with doing this, heard it works a treat, looked like it did diesel was black as. First time I have ever done it though.

Geez only neeed 3lts, the patrol would probable need atleast 7litres to reach the low tide mark on the dip stick.

Cant see the pony in flushing unless motor gunked up. You will see if it is by the inside of filler cap.

Regular oil and filter changes with good 15/40 will keep it clean.

5000k for standard dirty diesels ie. 4.2 Nissan, 2.8 Hilux etc

Bazzle

Has anyone used that CEM cleaner as seen in 4b Monthly for $90? reckon i am keen to run diesel through my 250 thousand toyota 3b motor but wonder if the 'detergent' might do a good job?

Has anyone used that CEM cleaner as seen in 4b Monthly for $90? reckon i am keen to run diesel through my 250 thousand toyota 3b motor but wonder if the 'detergent' might do a good job?

i ran diesel through my 300 000k H, slightly smoother, and burnt a tad less oil...

Been running Castrol GTX 2 through my 1hz for the last 90,000 (since 203,000) and I'l give you the hot tip mate - this is by far the better oil to run.

With diesel's, as long as you change the oil when its hot - you will take the sludge with it - I can remember stuffing up a fitting of a new oil filter on my old Yota 47 once(those damn canisters and bolt - don't pinch the O ring!) and had 9 litres of brand new oil in it - I turned it over for 1 minute and lost all the oil - it came out black as the ace of spades(after 1 minute!)

If you are keen on running an oil through to cleam it all up without chucking diesel in - go down to your Cat dealer and Buy some CAT diesel oil. They have a sheet load of detergents added in and do a thousand k's on that then dump it - its like an enema for your engine!! Be careful as you remove buildup you will remove coke from around the rings and allow it to burn more oil... bugger!

My housemate works for CAT and he does the same thing to his 80...

As long as you are doing the changes regularly you shouldn't have a problem. I also have a fix for your gearbox which should be getting notchy into second at around 160K... will save you $2000+ and give you another 100K out of the gearbox... PM me for that tip...

toyotroop wrote:Yeah im interested in this one too, cos i change my oil every 5 or 6k and ive niticed that if i dont go on a long run every now and then my tappets sound like they arent getting enough oil.

Diesels will glaze the bores if not treated to a long run every once in a while. not really a good thing. They will also go much better. Even just a run up the freeway, few hills thrown in, will help it mucherer.

And if anyone suggests Bon Ami as a cure, treat them with much care, they are mentally unstable, walk away very fast get in your car and dont come back.

I used to work for Detroit Diesel and i found both there Four stroke and Two stroke oils work wonders. 4 stroke stuff has lots of cleaning agents and will clean the baby right out. just run it for a 1000 kays or so. 2 stroke stuff does wonders for engines that may be starting to glaze. i put it in my 308 that was using oil due to and light running, and it fixed it right up. Both oils are friggin great guns!