Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys.. was just wondering how a 2 inch body lift will effect the auto gear selector? ive found heaps of info on the actually body lift process but just want to confirm the auto stick is not a problem....cheers

from memory the auto selector is just a piece of threaded rod, if the body lift affects this at all you can easily adjust the nuts/length to compensate

viperguy wrote:hey guys.. was just wondering how a 2 inch body lift will effect the auto gear selector? ive found heaps of info on the actually body lift process but just want to confirm the auto stick is not a problem....cheers

was no issue in my GQ auto...

Do you have the spacers yet? If not I have some 50mm steel body lift spacers for sale for $17.50 each.

Dont normally pick on $$ but 70mm is min for GQ/GU and ally costs about $8 a piece cut form Capral .

Bazzle

bazzle wrote:Dont normally pick on $$ but 70mm is min for GQ/GU and ally costs about $8 a piece cut form Capral .

Bazzle

70mm diameter of the alloy yes, but I think he meant 50mm high..

Body lift in the auto is no hassle as it's an electronic selector. worst case you might have to lengthen the wires, I doubt it though for a 50mm body lift.

yep sorry my mistake one too many ales will do that to me.

Cheers,

Andrew

amriemann wrote:Body lift in the auto is no hassle as it's an electronic selector. worst case you might have to lengthen the wires, I doubt it though for a 50mm body lift.

Cheers,

Andrew

electronic selector?? must be about a 1/2 inch thick threaded wire??? to the box!!

if you look under your car at the gearbox you will notice one link connecting the gearbox to the selector and on this you will notice a nut and bolt joining 2 lengths of slotted metal all i did was loosen the nut an bolt then do the body lift then tighten it up when i was done

If you are talking about the "T" bar selector there is no problem at all. It is connected to the box by a long rod with a "sloted hole" at the box end, just loosen the bolt connection here before you lift the body and do up later once the bolt has found it's new position. Mine works fine.

Mex

If you are talking about the "T" bar selector there is no problem at all. It is connected to the box by a long rod with a "sloted hole" at the box end, just loosen the bolt connection here before you lift the body and do up later once the bolt has found it's new position. Mine works fine.

Mex

cheers guys.. very helpful... i havent done the lift yet but will be soon.. i have a custom lpg set up that i have make sure wont interfere with the lift then it will be all systems go.. what do u guys think? alloy spacers or nylon? and do you think its best to buy kit or everything seperate?.. ill be doin lift myself....

Alloy/steel.This keeps the torque on bolts correct .

Bazzle

any last words of advice, secrets or tips that i havent read on here yet? did u cut up ur own tube or buy blocks to size?

viperguy wrote:any last words of advice, secrets or tips that i havent read on here yet? did u cut up ur own tube or buy blocks to size?

if you follow the step by step on my site (URL in sig) follow it exactly, you will have no hassles.

yep no probs bogged...ive had plenty of think time and read ur instructions so should be ok...cheers

i was also wondering....and this may be a stupid question so be easy on me....do the original body mounts stay and the new lift blocks go in over them? or do my new blocks accomodate the original mounts and the 50mm i wanna lift? just asking because i have that gq body creaking that im sure we all have, and have noticed that the body bolts are lose-ish...do i need new body mounts first or should i just make my lift blocks bigger to accomodate the original space? i hate doing half jobs so id love to sort this out once and for all at the one time if i need to do anything about it...thanks guys

viperguy wrote:i have that gq body creaking that im sure we all have,

The creaking and the reason the bolts seem loose, your body mount rubbers are worn out.

While you have it apart, clean up the mounts on chassis and body, and replace them... you have them out. They arent cheap, but when you replace them you will notice no noises at all.

You will see they are rubber, and have a steel tube down the middle of them.

Have been following this thread with great interest due to the fact that I myself are about to do the same task in a LWB Auto.The original body /chasis mounts that are in need of replacement,are they available from aftermarket places,4WD shops etc,or are they something that has to come from Nissan (perish the thought ).What do you expect to pay for them.

PATROLSNIFFER wrote:What do you expect to pay for them.

Rumour ARB is working on them.

Nissan about $400 for the 12 for a LWB. Again, if they last another 12+ yrs its cheap.