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5link info
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 9:20 am
by Fieldsy
Any one know where I can find info about how to 5link or 4 link set ups. I am trying to educate myself but am having heaps of trouble finding info that I can understand eg what sort of joints to use arm lengths things like that. I know there is info on pirate but can’t be bothered sifting through all the B/S to get to the good stuff.
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 4:24 pm
by Gwagensteve
I don't have the issue numbers with me, but about 12-18 month ago, Petersens 4 Wheel&Off Road did an excellent article on setting up 4 links. This was quite good inthat it catered for off road applications - more height and travel than these systems are "normally" designed with.
Otherwise, HP Books publish some books on race car chassis/suspension design, and all of the principles here are applicable to our application.
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 5:19 pm
by UZJ40
yep the article in Petersons was real good, and there wasnt a bad one in 4WD monthly also, i have both and can fax you the pages if you want.
it took me a few months of research but i am going to do the 4 link on the rear of my 40#. it is really pretty straight forward.
i need to find out about a 5 link front now?
5links
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 6:11 pm
by blackmav
big balls offroad have joints and mounts readymade, just add tube.
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 8:39 pm
by Fieldsy
yeah I have seen the brackets and joints my main prob is what joints for were, legnths of tubes, where to mount the brackts, all that sort of thing. ( I need to design it)
To build it I have a cunning plan

put it togher at home use my lame ass gasless mig to tack everything in place then get Hoonz to bring around his welder and nivi and use beer to get him to weld it all up

Posted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 7:00 am
by bru21
look what others have done and expand on it they have done the r&d. the lengths are to do with several factors such as drive shaft pivot at transfer, rotation of diff pinion drive shaft ends should always be close to parrallel to stop whipping, castor change throughout movement (parrallelogram is the best for this). the longer the arms the free'er the movement allowed
the longer the arms the less high movement joints are needed before binding. use rubber at at least one end to stop road noise vibration etc.
build it strong, but not too strong ie welding 12mm plate vertically to chassis is a stress crack due to concentration of stresses waiting to happen - avoid welding across a stress member rather along it.
bending tubes weakens them considerably in push - pull so overdesign them!
have someone competent look at your design and finished product
cheers
bru