Page 1 of 1
Blowing seals/plugs
Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 1:48 pm
by muttis3LV6
Hay all
I went out for a play in the weekend and was doing some alsome hill climbs, some i had to go full noise on and the video tape shows the front bouncing farking high.
The next morning i find a very big sticky mess under the car. I first though it had blowen the front input shaft seal where it comes out of the transpher case, fixed all that and was washing it befor i put it back together when i found that the Welsh (?) plug had sprung a leak, have put a new one intoday but was wondering has any one else done this?
ie full travel at full noise = blowen plugs?
if so is there a solution?
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 7:41 am
by Brett G
i think the RSPCA would have something to say about you blowing seals mate......
hahahahahahaha, I'm sooooo funny!
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 10:21 am
by muttis3LV6
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA no not funny
So what am i the only person to do this?
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 10:32 am
by -Scott-
Blowing seals and leaving a big sticky mess?
Nobody else will admit to that!
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 10:48 am
by muttis3LV6
mmmmmm everybody funny today
Ok so serious here has anyone ever had problems with there front imput shatf?
Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 3:01 pm
by muttis3LV6
OK here we go again and this time without the jokes
i have stuffed the seal again
HAs any one else done this or am i special?
Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 5:55 pm
by its fishi
err...heh...heh-heh..he said stuffed the seal hehh
some things never change
Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 7:38 pm
by hudson44
Hey 3LV6
You couldn't have posted this at a better time, I was just about to start the same post. My fron't transfer case seal has been leaking for about 2 months. I have put 4 seals in her... 2 from Repco, 1 from a bearing mob and now a genuine mitsy one. The bloody thing's still leaking!!!
After racking my brain, replacing the vac solenoids to stop the front shaft spinning when the free wheeling hub was locking itself in. Changing different grades of oil and replacing the front diff mounts, all of which i thought may have caused this, i have come to the conclusion that the transfer case breather must be blocked.
I had a quick look last weekend while fitting the genuine seal and popped the hose off the breather pipes and blew compressed air into the transfer and gearbox. Air seemed to be going into the gearbox but not the transfer case. Am going to try to run some wire down the very small pipe at the top of the transfer to try and free her up. If the breather is blocked then the easiest way of getting rid of the pressure is through the front seal!!!
This may be your fault too, it's definately worth looking at as i have personally tried everything and it's really giving me the sh*ts.
Any thoughts from anyone else on this subject would also be great!
Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 8:09 pm
by J Top
Frank has posted on this many times, apparently the frost plug in the front d/s yoke fails and oil leaks out, seeming like a failed seal.
This doesn't explain the time delay between replacing the seal and the leak coming again though.
Checking the breathers is a good idea.
J Top
frank
Posted: Sun Oct 30, 2005 8:36 pm
by klrevo
where is frank by the way? its been a while since hes popped his head up, whats he so busy doing then ey???
better be something good that he can tell us all about,
dean
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 6:32 am
by muttis3LV6
but i changes my frost plug in aug, cant of failed already can it?
am getting to the car this week so will check the breather hose then
thanks
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 6:36 am
by muttis3LV6
Hay hudson
I would go for a ARB front locker befor the back one. I can get further with the front engaged and the back open than visa versa.
When the paj lifts a wheel, yes i know you might find it hard to belive but the indy front does have its limits
the ARB keeps you going
Posted: Mon Oct 31, 2005 8:08 am
by Bitsamissin
Hudson, I would replace the slip yoke first ($120 from Mitsu).
They leak internally through the welch plug making you think it's the seal.
I learnt the hard way.
You can use your old one as a spare after plugging it with some epoxy resin.
If it leaks after replacing the slip yoke & seal then most likely the t/case has been overfilled or the breather is blocked. Possibly there could be a alignment problem causing the shaft not to run true. Also you can adjust tension on the seal by removing the spring and snipping a bit off and re-fitting.
5sp t/case breathes through the selector boot (there is a small hole in the rubber) the auto version has a seperate breather.
In regards to lifting the front end and hitting the ground hard the biggest risk I would have throught would be busting a CV rather than popping out plugs or seals.
Posted: Tue Nov 01, 2005 7:48 pm
by hudson44
Cheers Frank. Will pop the console out this weekend and make sure the breather is clear. Had a look a week ago from underneath and it did'nt seem real clear. Does the plug in the yolk pop in and out, or will this just leak again?
Hey muttis... Any Locker at this stage is just a bit of a dream at the moment. Money's a bit tight at the moment and if i could pick up a cheap rear one i could put it in myself!
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 10:53 am
by grumpy221
Bitsamissin wrote:In regards to lifting the front end and hitting the ground hard the biggest risk I would have throught would be busting a CV rather than popping out plugs or seals.
and bustin engine mounts
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 11:14 am
by -Scott-
My welsh plug started leaking somewhere on the way home from the tip. Oil from the uni joint in the transfer case end of the front drive shaft all the way back to the fuel tank.
I figured I'd pull it and epoxy it, but if a replacement is only $120 that might be the way to go.
Scott
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:23 pm
by hudson44
Yeah i was thinking of the epoxy bodge job. The only problem i can see might be a balance issue if the glue tends to set on one side of the shaft. Although it is only the front shaft and doesn't normally spin at high speeds!