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Any tips for bracing diff at Ball?
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 2:20 pm
by CJ Burns Esq
HAs anyone got any tips/templates for webbing the front diff on a GQ between the ball and the housing?
Any assistance or comments appreciated.
CJ
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 3:31 pm
by ludacris
Have heard that an upside down v shaped metal welded along the top for strength. for the front off the diff a 10mm piece shaped along the front does the job.This is what I am going to be doing.
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 4:22 pm
by bundyrum4x4
Cheeze does a kit for this, includes all brackets required to strenthen the front housing. Must get on myself BEFORE I bend mine.
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 8:30 pm
by Cheezy4x4
True I have a laser cut kit for diffs that include brace for both sides of the ball and a lamination fot the tube on the long side that also includes the side of the pumpkin.
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 10:07 pm
by A1
Heres a pic of the gusseting on DRAFTYS new GU front
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 11:11 am
by ludacris
How much is your kit CHEEZY.Cheers.
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 4:20 pm
by bazzle
Heres a pic of the gusseting on DRAFTYS new GU front
Weld an old bearing ring around drain plug so it doesnt round over.
Bazzle
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 5:44 pm
by CJ Burns Esq
Next question, can the webbing on the ball be performed without stripping the seals out? I'd hate to stuff the seals.
CJ
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 10:09 pm
by hazard
To weld the gussets properly (ie pre heating etc get enough penetration) you will have to strip the seals out...
Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2004 1:13 am
by XterraGuy
So are the GQ housings known to be weak. I've only dealt with the centered H233B rear, perhaps the extra leverage of the offset housing invites more potential for flex...
bazzle wrote:Weld an old bearing ring around drain plug so it doesnt round over.
No kidding, I was able to grind the hole in mine square again the first time I changed the fluid, but just last weekend I was swapping in a third member with 4.90 gears and the plug was a mangled mess. Got my Dremel and carbide bit and had another go at it like before, but got carried away and made the hole too big (going to have to take it on out to accept a 3/4" breaker bar) and it's been shaved so short that regardless of the hole size it's just not deep enough to get the breaker to engage it. Need to plunge down into it with a bit too, should be oh so fun. The housing itself takes abuse without flinching, but that damn drain plug needs something.
Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2004 7:02 pm
by big red
XterraGuy wrote:So are the GQ housings known to be weak. I've only dealt with the centered H233B rear, perhaps the extra leverage of the offset housing invites more potential for flex...
bazzle wrote:Weld an old bearing ring around drain plug so it doesnt round over.
No kidding, I was able to grind the hole in mine square again the first time I changed the fluid, but just last weekend I was swapping in a third member with 4.90 gears and the plug was a mangled mess. Got my Dremel and carbide bit and had another go at it like before, but got carried away and made the hole too big (going to have to take it on out to accept a 3/4" breaker bar) and it's been shaved so short that regardless of the hole size it's just not deep enough to get the breaker to engage it. Need to plunge down into it with a bit too, should be oh so fun. The housing itself takes abuse without flinching, but that damn drain plug needs something.
i had to weld a short socket extension bar to mine to undo it then fitted a new one and welded a ring of pipe around it to protect it.
my problem was that i had ground most of the plug away and didn't have any Square left on the plug.... my GQ one semed to have a deeper square section than the GU one.