Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Does anyone have the problem with their exhaust (v6 or v8 or 4cyl with pipe near cylinder) heating up their slave cylinders??
Once I have been driving for awhile, it is difficult for me to go from neautral to 1st and from 2nd down to 1st due to the exhaust heat boiling my fluid and hence reducing the effectiveness of the hydraulic system.

Am thinking bout going to a clutch mob...but thought I would ask here first. I have moved my metal pipe away from the exhaust as much as possible, is just the cylinder is really close to the exhaust. The pipe is as far away as it can possibly be, as I designed the exhaust myself. Is v6 Chev.
Mate with same motor has this problem also, however another one who had a commo v6 didnt. Is there a difference??

Thanks,
Damien

maybe try some heat wrap around the exhuast, and a heat shield too? I remember when my brother in law turbo'd his cortina, he needed to put a shield between the brake master cylinder, and turbo, and all heat problems were gone..

just some advice

I had this problem once, but think it was contamination in the fluid, and the contaminant (maybe water?) was boiling, not the fluid. The clutch would go to the floor when it got really hot.

I bled the system and replaced the fluid - that solved the problem.

Otherwise - try Castrol SRF (silicone racing fluid) - has a higher boiling point - but $$$$$$$$$$$.

Otherwise fit a heat shield.

How and where do I get heat shields?? Exhaust shops?? How much room is required for one to be installed?? I have maybe an 1" and a bit of space between the clyinder and e-pipe.

yo..

just an exhaust shop can make up the heat shield if you dont have much experience with a welder..

I would also change the fluid!

good luck..

Yeah, I agree with changing the fluid. Brakes get damn hot without boiling off. If you're exhaust is that hot, you've got worse problems than a clutch that won't work!!!

Seriously, brake fluid is hygroscopic, ie absorbs water. Since water boils at 100C, it creates vapour in the line. It takes a lot to compress a gas.

Brake fluid can absorb I think around 1/2 its own volume in water. Using an old bottle of fluid that's been lying around open for a while can be bad, even if it looks ok

If you cant get that peice of pipe hpc coated, just put some thermal wrapping over it, use it liberally,then
Attach the heat sheild to the cylinder not the exhaust,
Change the fluid as sugested with high performace stuff, but make sure every drop if the old fluid is GONE, it will make heaps of difference, The Disks on one of my vehicles gets to a pint where they glow red and still wont boil good fluid, fark i have a brain numbing moment trying to remember what i use, ultra blue or something.. DAMN>>>>

Jes

As others have said get a high quality (and I think high "dot") brake/clutch fluid as the stuff you have is probli contaminated/cheap stuff.


Hope it all works out for u.

Nick

I use dot 4 no probs there

i was also told, never found out if it were true, but the fluid over time thins out, now the fluid in yours maybe what was in there from the factory so it will be like water anyway.


NICK

its possible..

but I doubt his fluid has been there since the build of the truck..

when brake fluid boils - throw it away.. thats what has farked it up

If you live up in 'tropics' you're supposed to flush & replace your brake fluid every 6 months due to it being hydroscopic. This is compared to 12 months down south.

Cheers,

Al

If you have had some experience bleeding brakes / slave cylinders, you could flush it yourself every so often..

I do my own - I like to have all fresh fluids!

I'm not that illiterate when it comes to mechanics. Did my own engine conversion Not that it's difficult for a carb car considering no computer What's more, is that it passed first time
Have changed fluid probably 3mths ago when replaced Clutch master. Am going to try wrapping exhaust.