Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Can anyone tell me why my rear brake rotors don't seem to fit properly!?

I know this is a little weird but I have noticed that when the rear of the truck is jacked up you can actually move the wheel/tire a small amount either way before the actual rotor moves. It is a little hard to describe but imagine the studs holding the wheel on move but the rotor assembly stays still for about 10mm of movement either foward or reverse. Makes a clunk obviously when the slack is taken up...

It is a concern cause looking at it it looks like it would eventually sheer the studs. I could be wrong. The mechanic had a quick look and is unsure but offered to check it out (of course costing $)

No leaks on the rear diff at all. Wheel nuts always stay tight too.
It is very weird so I hope someone has an answer.

Thanks
Brian

wheelbearing movement?

I wondered this but if the bearing was that fucked then it would have surely buggered the axle seal also and the diff is completely dry.
No leaks whatsover. Oil was just replaced the other day too.

Ok, had a good look tonight.

Looks like at some stage the truck has run with the wheel nuts loose or the wrong nuts or something and it has worn the studs slightly and marginally elongated the holes in the rotor. Other than this I have no idea. It has been like this ever since I got the truck as i noticed it when I changed wheels...

So new rotors and studs needed
the actuall slop is only about 2 mm but it is exagerated when the wheel is on and the little bit of backlash in the diff gears/axle.

Any ideas on how bad the ass reaming will be for nissan wheel studs?
And can ya get em in without having to take the axle out?

rotors prolly wont be too bad but still money I don't have!

cheers
Brian

I THINK there will be juuust enough room to drive out the old studs before they hit the bearing housing. Getting the new ones in could be difficult though..

Nick

Is it a PITA to take the axle out? Ie would I have to replace anything because I take it out?

Do ya normally just bang the studs in with a hammer or do they have to be pressed in?

Thanks for the help.

Brian

pretty scary stuff. you will want to put new rotors on as well. the axles come out easy..

Yeah it was a bit scary!!!

I am getting prices for studs and rotors. Would be no good to just get the studs. Definitely no room for skimping in the brake department!!!!

Anyone have any idea what I will be up for $$$ wise?

I would say that the dude who owned the truck before might have used a set of wheels that did not suit and they did not tighten up properly. Or drove around with the wheel nuts loose at some stage???
The only things I can think of really.

If I can get the studs out without taking the axle out then it will be easy to get em back in. Just use a nut to tighten them up and pull em through.

Cheers
Brian

Check DBA (Repco etc) for rotor $$$ too.
Studs can be pulled back with nuts, Oil spline 1st and check them regularly for the 1st couple of days as they heat up cool down as they may not of pulled right in 1st time.

Bazzle

what yr is your GQ? theres 2 different sized Discs in the GQ series..

Afta 93 I think have larger discs.

Shame, I will have a spare set of discs when I change my Discs for my slotted ones I got at home.
old ones are 12 mths old, machined once (ran out of pad at Yea on way home :( )

the rear discs are the same for all GQ's, ans all GU's with the exception of the 4.8 litre job.

DBA model# 622

they are expensive bastards as they are milled out of a very big peice of steel.

fronts are much cheaper!

thanks wendle.

I thought they might be a bit expensive! Repco want $194 each and not sure if the quality will be as good as dba and i am sure they (dba) will be more expensive again!

Wendle wrote:the rear discs are the same for all GQ's, ans all GU's with the exception of the 4.8 litre job.

forgot we were talkin rears.. this no sleep shit is killing me. :(

Best price I got so far is $130 ea for rotors. Obviously not dba ones but I think will have to do

fatassgq wrote:Best price I got so far is $130 ea for rotors. Obviously not dba ones but I think will have to do

How much extra were DBA?

I think repco have the dba ones don't they. If so they are close to $200 ea.

Nissan wheel studs are about $75 per set of 6!!!!

Plus brake pads cause mine are low and may as well replace.

This has turned into an expensive little PITA

Jeeze some people are trippers.

Just got told I should just drill the holes in the rotors out then sleeve em then I only have to get new wheel studs?


I told him to get fucked!

Just curious, how much for the slotted DBA rotors for the front?

Rod

I actually can't remember exactly but I think for both it was up around 360 or thereabouts.

Just get a machine shop to drill out 6 NEW holes in disk.

BTW Disks are made form Cast Iron not steel.

Bazzle

Shit just get a whole rear axle somewhere second hand.

They're only rear brakes.

Jason

I cannot get the disks drilled out as that would leave a bigger hole therefore the studs would flop around again more so!!!! Unless you mean fill the holes with weld first but then they would have to make sure everything was lined up exactly when they redrilled
OR redrill and put sleeves in (but I am not sold on this idea at all)

I don't need a new axle I can easily get new studs and replace em.

For $130 it is just never going to be the better option to fuck around doing this shit. Am 99% sure if insurance etc ever found out you had fucked with em then you would be in trouble too!!!

Maybe if they cost $1000 ea you might think about it

fatassgq wrote:
For $130 it is just never going to be the better option to ***** around doing this shit. Am 99% sure if insurance etc ever found out you had ***** with em then you would be in trouble too!!!

I think its more the fact that your fuckin with your fuckin brakes, and you dont want your fuckin brakes to fuck out when your fuckin flyin down a fuckin hill at fuckin 130 fuckin ks, that would be fucked.

spend the fuckin $ and do it right, its fuckin worth it. Know how you fuckin feel though, its findin the fuckin $ and the fuckin right fuckin time :(

fuck oath

fatassgq wrote:***** oath

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. bored...

what he meant by drilling 6 NEW holes, was drilling a second set of holes rotated around 30 degrees from the flogged out ones. so you will have a nice new hole NEXT to each flogged out one.
wether or not it is worth it depends on how much meat is left on the rotors before they are at minimum thickness.

wheel studs to suit a GQ are $8.50 each from my local bursons including a nut if anyone is interested