Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have a SWB GQ and the plan is to run aux power to a fuse board behind the drivers seat. Was going to run +/- from the aux batt with 50amp wire (with a circuit breaker near the batt +). Just wondering how to hook up the + wires to the fuse board.
Also what do I do with the -. How do I branch this so it goes to where I want.
Things that are going to be powered of this are -
Roof Lights (32amps -4x100w)
Fridge (3-5amps)
Reversing Lights (16amp)
Inverter 600w (dunno what that one draws - guessing near 60amps - might have to rethink this size)
There will also be a couple of ciggy plugs for fluros, phone charger etc.

Not all this stuff will be going at once ie roof/reversing lights want be on when inverter is in use. The roof/revrseing lights will be wired into a switch that turns one of them of when the other is on.


Its the 6way one I think I have.
http://www.narva.com.au/Fuses_16.html

i would look at stepping up from 50 amp wire, which is 6mm i believe.. its recomended for most fridges to run off this gauge wire all the time so i dont think sharing it 6 ways will help, dont want the fridge cutting in and out cause every time u swich some lights on the volts are pulled down below cut off..
go to jaycar or jb hifi and get some 8 gauge car amp wire.. this will run things sweet as!!

PAD

i mean talk to rob, he wants to run the same thing.
We talked about C/B's and what you can run off what.
Just remeber P= V/I
You will find that a 600watt invertor wont pull 60amps as that is 600watts at 230v
Call me if you need help, or just p.m me

also, for some cable that can handle current draw, look at the winch cable, will handle it with ease.

i might happen to know somebody with access to 10mm2 flex.
You might have to beg thou

Big Red Toy wrote:i might happen to know somebody with access to 10mm2 flex.
You might have to beg thou

Bugger begging I will just make sure you get stuck good and proper in the snow. (so give me give me - PLS)

I think the stuff is about 8mm (50amp - was a guess buy the bloke at jaycar). Which should be fine (the alt on the gq's are only 50amp).
Fridge is currently being run of 4mm (20amp) wire with no problems for the last 4yrs.

Still not 100% sure how I am going to connect a 50amp wire to 6different posts on the fuse thing. But thinking of joining 2x30amp wires and then soldering 3 extra wires to this and just put terminals on the end.
And for the -ve thinking of just using a brass bolt and putting an eyelet terminal on the end of each wire and bolting them altogether.

AS for the inverter decided to try one of the elcheapos from super cheap. Think they where 500w for $150.

Big Red Toy wrote:Just remeber P= V/I
You will find that a 600watt invertor wont pull 60amps as that is 600watts at 230v

thats not true.

remember P=VxI

600w is 600w! to make power you have to have power.

the 230V side wont be 60A, but the 12V side WILL be 50A.

600w=12Vx50A
600w=230Vx2.6A

383FJ45 wrote:

Big Red Toy wrote:Just remeber P= V/I
You will find that a 600watt invertor wont pull 60amps as that is 600watts at 230v

thats not true.

remember P=VxI

600w is 600w! to make power you have to have power.

the 230V side wont be 60A, but the 12V side WILL be 50A.

600w=12Vx50A
600w=230Vx2.6A

Don't forget to allow for losses too- meaning more than 50A on the 12V side for the full 600W output.

Don't forget to allow for power factor correction

Turps,

It is possible with a suitably sized soldering iron to 'fan' the cables out from the one cable. Strip back enough insulation to allow you to twist them all together then tin the wires and solder them to your already tinned supply cable. then insulate with Heatshrink-- OR next time your in Melb, go to WHITWORTHS yacht shop in Elizabeth St (just accross the road from Autobarn) and get a thing called a POWER POST. This allows you to connect all your cables to a single bolt with sits on an insulated mount. It has a protective post to prevent accidental shorts. If you use the larger cable, you'll need smaller ULILUX battery style connectors--you can get these from L&H or Middendorps

Nick

Woop wrote:Turps,

It is possible with a suitably sized soldering iron to 'fan' the cables out from the one cable. Strip back enough insulation to allow you to twist them all together then tin the wires and solder them to your already tinned supply cable. then insulate with Heatshrink-- OR next time your in Melb, go to WHITWORTHS yacht shop in Elizabeth St (just accross the road from Autobarn) and get a thing called a POWER POST. This allows you to connect all your cables to a single bolt with sits on an insulated mount. It has a protective post to prevent accidental shorts. If you use the larger cable, you'll need smaller ULILUX battery style connectors--you can get these from L&H or Middendorps

Nick

Nick
I think I might go with the power distribution block. As the input wire is going to be 50 amp. I will probably use 30amp wire to each fuse. As some of the circuits will be around the 20amp (roof lights) and just want to reduce the voltage drop as much as possible. Also it sounds likt it will look much neater.
THis would also work very well for the negative wire. Might drop into the auto elec and see if he has any or a book I can look at.

Thanks

Turps

murcod wrote:

383FJ45 wrote:

Big Red Toy wrote:Just remeber P= V/I
You will find that a 600watt invertor wont pull 60amps as that is 600watts at 230v

thats not true.

remember P=VxI

600w is 600w! to make power you have to have power.

the 230V side wont be 60A, but the 12V side WILL be 50A.

600w=12Vx50A
600w=230Vx2.6A

Don't forget to allow for losses too- meaning more than 50A on the 12V side for the full 600W output.

yeah, i know. i was just getting the point across in a perfect world (its shorter and easier to explain in that world)

you get a rough idea.

Gunna need a BIG alternator to power all that.... And some good batteries.



Voltage= induction\ resistance. Ohms law....

DAZZ wrote:Gunna need a BIG alternator to power all that.... And some good batteries.



Voltage= induction\ resistance. Ohms law....

Not all of it is going to be turned on at the same time ie roof lights would be turned off when reversing lights are selected (on-off-on). Inverter would only be used when in camp (so no other lights on other than a fluro).

DAZZ wrote:
Voltage= induction\ resistance. Ohms law....

That's a new variation on Ohm's law to me- please explain "induction"? Do you mean "power"?

V= IR

P= VI

(v= voltage; I= current; R= resistance; P= power)

Bugger drew my Ohms law triangle rong!!!!


Induction (amps)= Voltage\ Resistance (watts)


Trade school was a long time ago!!!!!

DAZZ wrote:Bugger drew my Ohms law triangle rong!!!!


Induction (amps)= Voltage\ Resistance (watts)


Trade school was a long time ago!!!!!

Obviously! Ohms are the units for resistance, and by themselves don't determine watts (power.)

As murcod noted, P=VI, so (by re-arraging of terms etc.) P=(V^2)/R or P=(I^2)*R.

And, to be really picky, induction (well, inductance, actually) is the property of a coil, also known as an inductor, measured in "Henrys" and commonly denoted in formula as "L" (because "I" was already taken for current, measured in Amperes, and C stands for Coulomb, the unit of charge...)

Confused? Good, my work here is done!

Scott

(in desperate need of a life.)

Got this info out of trade skool text books, May and Crouse, these were the apprenti bible many moons ago!!!!!!




Don't go diss'n my bible biatch!!!!!!!!

DAZZ wrote:Got this info out of trade skool text books, May and Crouse, these were the apprenti bible many moons ago!!!!!!




Don't go diss'n my bible biatch!!!!!!!!

I've never heard it called "Inductance" before? As Scott said, I was taught inductance was to do with coils (inductors) and was measured in Henrys, with "L" was used as the abbreviation.

I was also taught that "I" always stood for current. That's from an electronics training background.