Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok i've done a search, looked around and i can't find much


i have a safari turbo and intercooler kit on my patrol ute 4.2 diesel as u all know
i've had the turbo (T3) hiflow'd and im running 12psi boost at the moment
it goes nicely atm but its not tuned i also have an electric fuel pump added just before the fuel filter

Firstly Hiflow'd is having your compressor housing machined out and fitting a slightly bigger wheel of different characteristics for improved flow
more air mass to the cylinders ... i've used the same exhaust housing for
a quick spool up

i've installed a boost guage and VDO pyrometer (EGT guage)
some times my guage works .. some times it doesn't ... (EGT one)
it goes up then drops down to nothing ... is that normal?

whats the max EGT(degrees C`) i should run when running hard?

what temp should EGT(degrees C`) be when just cruising the streets?



Thanks
Luke

Gday Luke
Being a diseasal, the egt should be 800-900 deg max. Check out www.lcool.org for more info on egt gauges, custom intercoolers for the 79 series hdfte (which might suit you) and other nice tricks like running a fuel pump to supply diesel to the injecter pump. This makes a large difference to torque, as the pump can give full advance with no vacuum on its inlet.
Be careful to keep the egt's down, as the head on the 1hz is prone to cracking in the chamber.... i've seen a hdt in a 75, it went straight in
Andrew

sorry had to edit my post ... i have a patrol ute ...

800-900 degrees seems to be alot?

Thats ok, its still got a transfer...lol. know the td42 runs 14 psi with an intercooler.
Check out ebay for some cheapies.
BTW, what brand EGT do u have, and where did u get it???
Andrew

all stated ...

i have the kit already .. goes hard blah blah blah


the guage is a VDO guage

Depends on where Gauge picks up from. Normally 550 max after turbo on one of those as far I know.

Gauge should read all the time, check electrical conns.
Prob about 200 on light cruise.

Electric pump will prob work better closer to tank.

Bazzle

dow50r wrote:Gday Luke
Being a diseasal, the egt should be 800-900 deg max.
Andrew

what the?? are you trying to get him to blow up his motor? 550 - 600 post turbo, around 700 - 750 max pre turbo is safe level.

as has already been stated the 1HZ (and any indirect injected diesel including the TD42) is prone to cracking in the precombustion chambers when highly boosted and/or overfuelled. there is a diminishing return with additional boost on indirect injected diesels, there is a severe compression/expansion inefficiency in the precombustion chamber orifice which generates very high temperature spots in the head when high boost (over say 10 - 12psi) is introduced. if you're really into making big power from a diesel you need to start with a direct injected motor and go crazy from there.

cheers

Brian

Sorry Luke
Re-read your post a few times to let it sink in. I would take Brian's word over me re temperatures, i read on lcool that the intercooled and Dtronic'd hdfte yota was doing these temps on the sand dunes, not idling around town as u mention in your post.
Thats the beauty of setting the system up with the pyro, you can overboost it and choose to back off when temps go high (like the sic GTR's do for launching) or set it up failsafe and forget, in which case u dont need the pyro after initial adjustment really.
Andrew

My 80 series is in getting DTS turbo fitted, 3" mandrel exhaust, along with boost compensater, new injectors, valve clearances rectified, etc etc. Devesh @ West End was saying that 580-600 absolute max is acceptable on a TD42, and 550 max on a 1HZ.

Hoonz,
I will be getting the VDo EGT gauge as soon as it's all done. When i install it, i will let you know if my gauge does the same thing, but i would be checking the connections on yours to see if they are all sound, especially the earth.

Brain,
Installed your EGT yet??

mine all soldered connections .. its all connected ...

the guage needs power to run .. i've just tapped power from the accessories ... i've also used it for the light in the guage too ... maybe i should change that

Yeah, i would put the light on so that it comes on with the park lights, and hook the power for the gauge up with ignition. I cant see your wiring cuasing the problem tho, maybe a faulty gauge??

As I stated earlier EGT depends on where guage (pyro) is plumber in. After is ~550 before can be a lot hotter 100 - 150 more

Bazzle

mines plumbed in after the turbo on the dump pipe

slowhilux wrote:Brain,
Installed your EGT yet??

nope :( been back in hospital, now I'm out of action for another month

after that hopefully.

I have VDO EGT, Boost and Temp guage in a Dashpod in my GQ... Looks horn, and very practical.

EGT it goes into the exhaust not far after the Turbo.
Boost into crossover pipe
temp replaced OEM one.

On long hills EGT gets up to around 400/415...
Boost on really fuckin cold days 11/12psi@3000rpm
Temp guage needs different sender. :(

My TD42 runs on about 300deg on the hway and on long pulls it shouldn't get past 550.
I run just over 10lb in it and it has been going hard for years.
My VDO pyro is after the turbo.
On the machines at work they run ceramic coated pistons and run 16lb boost with up to 900deg exhaust temp but that is on a Cat 32lt v12

For those of you interested in a DIY EGT kit Jaycar (and possibly others) should have a kit available in the next month or so. Apparently it's a digital readout (easier/neater to fit than those big round gauges!) and has limit switching for overtemp alarms etc. The best thing is it should be less than half the price of VDO etc.!!

ACH wrote: The best thing is it should be less than half the price of VDO etc.!!

not when you get them direct from salesman of VDO

ACH,
Thats good info!! Went into Jaycar today, and the salesmen had no idea what i was on about!! Do you have access to better info on the kit??

Just for interest sake, got the truck back from getting turbo fitted (and every other fuel related thing on the motor rebuilt or new ), and MAX exhaust temp is 561deg C at 143km/h in 4th gear, on the dyno. Now, i cant see myself doing 140 in 4th , but the temp ranges from 465deg C ( 1200rpm full load/full boost) - 561deg C (4100rpm full load/full boost). got a complete readout, starting at 1200rpm, going up to 4100rpm, in 100rpm increments.

On a side note, went for a ride in another West End customers 1HZ DTS powered 80 series, with high flowed turbo, NO intercooler, boost compensater, running 16psi...this thing hauls MASSIVE arse!! Had 31" H/t tyres, and 3" exhaust, and damn did it have torque! read in the region of 730nm @ wheels apparently!!

And the most interesting part?? It has been in it current guise for 87,000km!!!! Not 1 problem!!! The only reason it was at the shop was getting new radiator/heater hoses and belts put on!! Kinda dispels the myth of 1HZ not being able to support a desent amount of boost

Hey Phill, what did the boost compensator and pump overhaul bit end up costing you? I'm due for injectrs and pump service, wondering if it's worth the extra for boost comensation?

for comparison my EGT is similar (a bit under 600 post turbo) at similar speed (130 indicated = 143 corrected in 5th and accellerating (very slightly) on flat road, 28 degree day) but I still want an intercooler!

$$$

cheers

Brian

Brian,
To get the pump modified with the boost compensater, costs $1500. on its own. i think from memory, there were about $100 worth of bits needed
But. yeah, budget $1500. I want a cooler too, but it can wait til early next year, should stop spending money for a while

http://www.thermoguard.com.au/
Ian supplies a great kit and cheaper for you as no shipping to the UK

My 300TDI runs at 200-300 around town up to 675 max probe in gas flow before turbo as close to exhaust valves as I could get it, this involved re shaping the probe a bit.

This post was for me to specifically put up a link to that website, but u beat me to it!! Very good website, very informative, BUT, it states that the thermocouple SHOULD BE installed in the exhaust manifold, at the collecter, as the temps are obviously much higher. Im not so sure bout this (mounting it in the manifold that is, not that the temps WONT be higher!), i think i would still rather it read from the dump pipe, as close to the exhaust housing as i could get it.

slowhilux wrote:Brian,
To get the pump modified with the boost compensater, costs $1500. on its own.

hrm I'm over that real quick!

slowhilux wrote:ACH,
Thats good info!! Went into Jaycar today, and the salesmen had no idea what i was on about!! Do you have access to better info on the kit??

Just for interest sake, got the truck back from getting turbo fitted (and every other fuel related thing on the motor rebuilt or new ), and MAX exhaust temp is 561deg C at 143km/h in 4th gear, on the dyno. Now, i cant see myself doing 140 in 4th , but the temp ranges from 465deg C ( 1200rpm full load/full boost) - 561deg C (4100rpm full load/full boost). got a complete readout, starting at 1200rpm, going up to 4100rpm, in 100rpm increments.

On a side note, went for a ride in another West End customers 1HZ DTS powered 80 series, with high flowed turbo, NO intercooler, boost compensater, running 16psi...this thing hauls MASSIVE arse!! Had 31" H/t tyres, and 3" exhaust, and damn did it have torque! read in the region of 730nm @ wheels apparently!!

And the most interesting part?? It has been in it current guise for 87,000km!!!! Not 1 problem!!! The only reason it was at the shop was getting new radiator/heater hoses and belts put on!! Kinda dispels the myth of 1HZ not being able to support a desent amount of boost

Phill, the kit code is KC5376, and the details on the Jaycar website are here.

The info doesn't indicate whether a thermocouple is included, however.

The Thermogaurd kit from Ian in the Alice looks good, but not sure if it has alarm contacts for setting off a buzzer or whatever when a particular temp limit is reached.

ACH,
U r right, i dont think the TC is included either. Wonder where the TC supplier for the Thermogaurd kit is?? Surley the Jaycar one can be built for alot less than the Thermogaurd item, unless the TC is $200

slowhilux wrote:This post was for me to specifically put up a link to that website, but u beat me to it!! Very good website, very informative, BUT, it states that the thermocouple SHOULD BE installed in the exhaust manifold, at the collecter, as the temps are obviously much higher. Im not so sure bout this (mounting it in the manifold that is, not that the temps WONT be higher!), i think i would still rather it read from the dump pipe, as close to the exhaust housing as i could get it.

I agree there Phil...down stream of any chance to grenade the turbo and shortly after...motor.
Andrew

slowhilux wrote:ACH,
U r right, i dont think the TC is included either. Wonder where the TC supplier for the Thermogaurd kit is?? Surley the Jaycar one can be built for alot less than the Thermogaurd item, unless the TC is $200

Phill, there's a mob in South Oz that sells them but I don't have the info to hand at present. I recall reading somewhere that they were about $50-$60 but don't hold me to that!! I'll dig up the info later and post. I agree that on a DIY basis, we should be able to do it cheaper!

Dow50r, altho' it makes logical and safe sense that you'd mount the TC downstream from the turbo, I've read that the TCs used are pretty robust and give a more accurate indication of what's happening if installed just before the turbo. Apparently (i.e. according to what I've read) even if you instal close to the turbo in the dump pipe, external conditions can affect the reading - anything up to 100 degrees or more!! . But....there's plenty of punters out there that have the TC "post-turbo". I'll try to find the info.....

Gday
According to the posts on the lcool 79 series intercooler/Dtronic tests out in the Simpson, Pyro was installed pre turbo, and there was a reference to Aviation motors running them there aswell. Cant be all bad, but you would want to make sure you did a good job installing it, as manifolds crack from any sharp surface left like internal threads...
Andrew