Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Anyone done a 6 inch lift on 80 serries GXl
Just wanting to know if there is probelms with front driveshaft angle on all wheel drive.

With 6 inches, you have alot of problems to overcome...like caster angle cant be brought back to spec without cutting and shutting the front diff, and when thats done, you get front driveshaft vibs, so part timing it or double cardoning the front shaft is the best options...then there is rear diff driveline angles, etc etc etc
best way to get 6 inches is to body lift 2 and put a 4 inch suspension lift in, which only requires a pair of caster plates.
Centre of gravity stays lower aswell, meaning more stability on cross angles off and on road.
Andrew

i have 6"lift with 5 deg caster plates on a dx 80 and have no probs

I have 7" kings unda my 80 and i had to put in castor plates and put a double card on the front shaft. the rear shaft is fine tho...

MUD80D wrote:i have 6"lift with 5 deg caster plates on a dx 80 and have no probs

MMmmmmm define no problems Reece...

crankycruiser wrote:I have 7" kings unda my 80 and i had to put in castor plates and put a double card on the front shaft. the rear shaft is fine tho...

Hi
How did you go getting this to fit...do tell how u did it.
Ive been under mine whecking stud patterns, and the diff and box are thesame...so the lux isnt a straight fit to the 80 either end.
Andrew

I also have 5" lift (measured 7" lift) with 5.5 degree castor plates on a DX with no problems, can leave the hubs locked at speed and there is no bad noises from the front shaft. steering could be slightly better but increasing the castor any more would put the tierod into the leading arms, it already hits on articulation. rear driveshaft angles are fine.

To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.

dow50r wrote:To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.

I also have extended brake lines, and panhards. my castor measures out of spec by a couple of degrees but it drives acceptably. the full-time 4WD should be more tolerant of bad castor.

does shortening then upper rear control arms make the tyre stuff better on full compression? my 35's rub on the rear bumper on full compression and I'd prefer they didn't!

dumbdunce wrote:

dow50r wrote:To get my 6" lift to spec, i had to shorten the rear top arms 10mm (to get the driveshaft angles thesame, and spring perches parallel) lengthern the pannies, space down the brake lines both ends, and had the front holes in the diff cut and rewelded 25mm lower (b4 caster plates, and the caster was never any good, tram tracked alot with 35's) Admittedly, the front shaft was not a real issue with my caster only corrected 4 degrees.

I also have extended brake lines, and panhards. my castor measures out of spec by a couple of degrees but it drives acceptably. the full-time 4WD should be more tolerant of bad castor.

does shortening then upper rear control arms make the tyre stuff better on full compression? my 35's rub on the rear bumper on full compression and I'd prefer they didn't!

Gday Brian
Your diff will be 5mm further forward with this mod. The top arms are 3/4 pipe, so putting a bolt shank inside and welding back together is what i have done (after taking 10mm out of them)
Another novel idea is to use a pair of caster correction bushes on the front arms instead of the rubber one that holds the arm to the body....this spaces the front axle 14mm further forward away from the once mudflaps... ... This is a little more involved with the bore of the hole needing to be brought out a mm or so for the bush od to fit...
Andrew

ferog got around a 6" lift put in the other week, castor correction, panhard, and i assume extended lines. no issues with vibes or anything like that....

sorry stuffed up look at next post

dow50r wrote:

crankycruiser wrote:I have 7" kings unda my 80 and i had to put in castor plates and put a double card on the front shaft. the rear shaft is fine tho...

Hi
How did you go getting this to fit...do tell how u did it.
Ive been under mine whecking stud patterns, and the diff and box are thesame...so the lux isnt a straight fit to the 80 either end.
Andrew

Well andrew the slip joint end out of the 80 shaft fits the hilux one so that fix's that end...
on the gear box end u need to grind out around 5mm near the holes so that they can be moved in to match the 80 pattern

I got a machine shop to do this work 4 me..

Too easy
From memory there is not a great deal of room on the d/c for moving the studs... nothing a miller wont fix though...
Andrew

dow50r wrote:Too easy
From memory there is not a great deal of room on the d/c for moving the studs... nothing a miller wont fix though...
Andrew

remind me why you can't just re-drill the transfer flange?

u cant redrill the flange because it is too small u would have to weld the holes up and put a ring round the outside of it to make it bigger..

crankycruiser wrote:u cant redrill the flange because it is too small u would have to weld the holes up and put a ring round the outside of it to make it bigger..

doh... that sucks

sure does but them the breaks.....

i had extended lines ect no probs with vibes at this stage lift measured at 6" in the back 7" in the front will settle to 5" eventually