Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I just installed 30mm front spacers and OME struts. However instead of coming up 45mm its actually sitting up 60mm, and the front wheels look toed in. Also it has made the tyres rub on the inside when i turn full lock. Is this normal and what can i do about the toe in.

Yep....

Unlike the back look where the coil is spaced - it's about 1/2 way along your a-arm.

I shaved mine down to about 25mm as I wanted the equivalent of 2" lift to go with datto springs and 30mm coil spacers in the back (about 60mm lift).

That's why they also sell 15mm ones.....

I'd pull em out and cut a bit off them....if you've got a drop saw that's probably ideal but go slowly or they will melt.

I cut mine down by hand and it took ages........

Yeah but the car is pefectly level as i had raised springs in the rear, im just concerned with the toe in. I have 730mm from wheel to guard in the front, and 735mm in the back. Does this sound reasonable?

When you lift it that much, your camber generally goes out and needs adjusting. You can get camber bolts from Pedders.

i also had the same problem.

my fix, got a wheel alignment. this usually happens when all independant suspended cars are eithered lowered or lifted.

cant really think of a way to explain why this happens, but i'll try anyway.

before your lift, the front lower arms were more horizontal (parrallel to ground). so when you put the spacers in, the ball joint on the arm would have moved down 60mm, (double the spacer because the spring is in the middle of the arm and not where the ball joint is) same as lifting a leaf sprung vehicle with only drop shackles, 2" drop shacles usually mean only 1" lift.

so now your front end is sitting higher, the ball joint has not only moved down, but also inwards to centre of you car. the length of you lower arm from mount to ball joint, will always remain the same.

now, the reason for your alignment probs, is because the steering tie rods, are still the same length, and haven't been adjusted to suit the lift.

in other words, putting the spacers in and lifting the front up, resulted in the distance between left and right ball joints (track) decreasing. but the steering tie rods havent changed, so they need to be adjusted (alignment) to straighten the front wheels.

hope this makes sense, not sure if its 100% correct.

thanks guys well it looks like i need a wheel alignment from pedders. Im still looking around for rear shocks, coz iv got OE shocks on and have bugger all downward travel.

Cressida MX 62 rear shocks... join the fun

Nah seriously you need something a bit shorter than that based on your setup...HQ would do nice

from my experience, esp. with swb soft tops where theres not a lot of weight at the back, try to stay away from GAS shocks that were designed for a larger, and heavier car.

i tried some HQ shocks, good in travel, although still not as long as i wanted, but the ride was totally crap. it was too harsh/stiff.

i found after wheeling or just driving around town, that my back and neck were sore, not due to almost lying down driving position, but because of the hard ride up back.

i think i have holden commodore shocks now, not sure what model thay are off, not sure if i can find out from whatever it might say on the actual shock, but they are an original factory item, as its all black, and not a gas shock. its oil/hydraulic.

the choice also depends on what lift and what springs you are using.

hope this helps. Steve.

The front has come down to 5cm which is ideal, I spoke to the guy at pedders and he said i need a camber kit and it costs $230 fitted. .
I have decided to get pedders trakryders at the back. they are 50mm longer than standard. hahaha they wanted $75 to fit the rear shocks!

I used HQ factory shocks and they were good....old oil type ones.

Good ride and lifted SWB are opposite poles.....