Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I'm doing an oil change on my 2.8D lux , i bought some synthetic oil, expensive stuff, a friend of mine said it was the best stuff to put in, but then another guy i know said that i need to put some oil thats for diesels only? . I read the back of the container of the synthetic and it says its suitable for petrol and diesels, so i know i can use the synthetic, but what is the best oil to use for a diesel and why?? what do you guys use?

i use penrite 20/60 as it gives me better oil pressure at high temps and seems to last longer than other stuff i have tried

ULX-110 diesel supreme.

It has a lot of molybdenum in it, which works like a deck of cards, very high compressive strength (5 times that of steel), but the shear load is very low, so you get wear resistance plus reduced friction. I use it in a 1HDT (80 series factory turbo) and through oil analysis have extended the change interval to 20K, plus increased fuel economy by around 6-7% (although I use the gear oil in the box & diffs as well, which is similar with lots of moly)

use synforce crusier oil....best shit around use it in my turbo hilux and never have any troubles and is made for the med to bigger engines..and come in a handy 10lt pack

cheers

thanks guys, really apreciate your feedback, looks like there are some diesel spec oils after all, i might take this shell synthetic back to the shop, has anyone out there used synthetic oil in their diesel? what results did you get if any?

I have just started using Fuchs ultralube 15/40 diesel in my 2.8l hilux and it seems to be running a lot freer. I have done 4000 klms since the last change and have noticed I reach 100 klm/hr at 200 less revs. which must equate to better fuel economy or more power.

ummm, how does oil change the the revs at 100? you're changin your oil, not your gearing.

I read of a study carried out in New York about five or six years ago, can't remember all the detail now but a number of the taxis motors from new were lubricated with a whole lot of different oils from home brand & recycled to the most expensive oils available, after a million kilometres all the motors were pulled down & wear was measured. There was not any significant differences in wear between engines using the "best" oils & those using the cheapest no name brands. The only thing that mattered was that the correct viscosity & grade of oil was used for a particular vehicle. I couldn't help but think after reading this that we men get sucked in by advertising just the same way as women do with their detergents & wrinkle creams & so on

LOL yup we sure get sucked in hehe, now that you mentioned it, what is the right viscosity and grade for a diesel like the 2.8D lux?

stick with a good 15/40

shell rimula x
castrol gtx (for short runs apparently?)

the penrite 20/60 is too thick and can cause some high pressure problems (did in my cruiser)

Schmidty

As I have had it explained to me by a diesel specialist . The old oil I was using was a 20/ 50 oil and was too thick for the 2.8 motor it sludged up and was drawing horsepower so to get to 100 i needed more revs.

I dont know how accurate that assesment is but it does make sense when you think about it.

I can only go on what reading I get from my taco when driving and as i said 200 les revs for 100 and a lot freer through the gears.

hey Quick 60 --ULX-110 diesel supreme-- where do i get this stuff?, i done a search on it on the web and apperently its avaliable almost all states in australia but not NSW?? how come? do any places in NSW sell it?

Yeah, me. PM me

Edit: I'm not a retailer, just sell it to mates on behalf of ULX

bigjedd wrote:
I can only go on what reading I get from my taco when driving and as i said 200 les revs for 100 and a lot freer through the gears.

is your hilux auto or manual? if manual, you're having yourself on. the revs for a given speed cannot change unless you have changed gearing or tyre size. If auto then you may see a slight difference in revs for a given speed until the torque converter locks - but these rpm differences are more likely to be due to different oil in the transmission/converter. once converter lockup occurs the situation is the same as for a manual.


cheers

Brian

Anyone heard of an oil called "Fuchs" its german made and is avaliable at most autobarn shops the guy at the shop reckons its the best stuff on the market and has been specially formulated and used in european industrial machinery for years and now hitting the domestic market, he gave me a good sales spiel but i'm wondering if anyone out there has heard of it too?,

Hey Quick 60 is there any way i can get some of that ulx diesel supreme to my doorstep? since for some strange reason i cant get it in NSW

quick60 wrote:ULX-110 diesel supreme.

I use it in a 1HDT (80 series factory turbo) and through oil analysis have extended the change interval to 20K

You change your diesel oil every 20k?

dibbz wrote:

quick60 wrote:ULX-110 diesel supreme.

I use it in a 1HDT (80 series factory turbo) and through oil analysis have extended the change interval to 20K

You change your diesel oil every 20k?

you think that's too often?

i guess a direct injected diesel that does majoritively long runs could change every 10k, wouldnt have expected every 20k. That oil must be really good.

who did your oil analysis out of curiosity.

Oilcheck in Sydney (schedule 2 about $42)

I use penrite HPR light diesel oil or BP something (works fine in the truck so will work OK in my Hilux)

hey quick 60 what do you mean by this?"Oilcheck in Sydney (schedule 2 about $42)" ??

MUZZ wrote:hey quick 60 what do you mean by this?"Oilcheck in Sydney (schedule 2 about $42)" ??

think he was replying to me

regarding where he had his oil analysis performed.

Yeah I was (replying)
Oilcheck is the name of the lab in Sefton, NSW
They have a good website with a tutorial on oils - it's a good read and very informative, you'll learn a lot about oils and metal wear in you engine. Check it out at:

http://www.oilcheck.com.au/Index.htm

Shadow wrote:i guess a direct injected diesel that does majoritively long runs could change every 10k, wouldnt have expected every 20k. That oil must be really good.

who did your oil analysis out of curiosity.

Shadow, you are spot on there, the indirect engines tend to soot up the oil a bit too much and thicken it, but direct injection engines run much cleaner (and hence more efficiently) so the oil is a lot cleaner for the same number of hours. I have tested a 1HZ (indirect n/a) and the oil was on its last legs at 13K, but the 1HDTs tested at 15-16K come back with test results saying the oil is still OK for service. I think the newer cruisers with the 1HDFTEs have now got a 10K cahnge interval as they have electronically controlled pumps, and run even more efficient than the 1HDTs. By efficient I mean they are not over fuelling the engine, and therefore do not produce the soot as a byproduct of incomplete combustion. The common rail diesels are similar as they inject at much higher pressures and burn all their fuel.

MUZZ wrote:Anyone heard of an oil called "Fuchs" its german made and is avaliable at most autobarn shops the guy at the shop reckons its the best stuff on the market and has been specially formulated and used in european industrial machinery for years and now hitting the domestic market, he gave me a good sales spiel but i'm wondering if anyone out there has heard of it too?,

I changed from Pennzoil to fuchs as penzzoil no longer have a premium diesel oil, and would not use it again, my 1HZ burned fuchs like it was going out of style, I am now using Caltex delo 400 without drama.

Fuchs is a german company but oil is not blended there, the German technology talk on the label is a good marketing thing IMHO.

I've heard the same about Penzoil from a guy involved in motor racing who went thru 3 motors before changing oil brand.

I have heard of Fuchs, and it is not a bad oil, but does not have as high TBN of visc. rating as the ULX (read the tutorial on the Oilcheck website and hopefully you'll know what I'm talking about) The Delo 400 is alright too.

Basically the TBN is the oils ability to neautralise acids in the engine, the higher the number, the better it is, and the longer it will protect your engine from corrosion. Fuchs reccomend HD 1540 which has a TBN of 9.5, the ULX has a TBN of 12. Caltex GTD is 8, not sure what the Delo 400 is, but may be on their website somewhere.

In the end it's down to how much you want to spend. The ULX is $10/litre, but considering the extended change interval and slight increase in fuel economy you get, it works out the same price.

PM me if you want some in Sydney.

castrol rx super is my choice, buy it in 20 ltr drums and change every 5 k