Diesel and Petrol 4.2's are they the same??
Anyone know?
Thanks
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
waterpumps
Re: waterpumps
bogged wrote:Diesel and Petrol 4.2's are they the same??
Anyone know?
Thanks
dont know if they are the same but 4.2 diesel water pump power max part number is wp 6056 
2001 pathfinder tjm(nissan ) alloy b/bar hella 160 d/lights ARB h/light loom , ipf d/light loom GME TX3400 UHF , 2 power outlets in back
www.yarrawongamulwala.com.au
www.yarrawongamulwala.com.au
Woop wrote:Pretty sure that the bolt patterns are different--also i think Petrol is re-buildable but not diesel. New pump from Nissan= $120 i THINK...
Nick
Thanks nick, i'll take my old one round mates place.
He has a TB that he rebuilt, 2 mths later head blew up again, as the Headgasket was faulty!
He is up for $2000 so far for the head. Poor prick is broke from the first rebuild. The head is $200 per air bleed thing (1 per cyl), and other shit...
He is talking of gettin a modded pump, with different impeller, as apparently the petrol ones at high revs cavitate, thats the cause of the issues with air causing heads to overheat then go bang. But thats more $100's.
Water wetter
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/redline3.htm
Need an Aussie agent? anyone?
Maybe a shop selling racecar parts?
Bazzle
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/redline3.htm
Need an Aussie agent? anyone?
Maybe a shop selling racecar parts?
Bazzle
Bruce,
I found a fair bit of electrolysis where the aluminium front cover mated to the front plate on mine during the re-build. It was so bad that getting the front cover off was pretty difficult-- I also found some very bad pitting in some of the surface surrounding the water pump impeller in the front cover suggesting some cavitation occurred at some stage. Make sure there is an earthing strap from the aluminium parts to steel. Allow some time for air bubbles to clear after filling.
Nick
He is up for $2000 so far for the head. Poor prick is broke from the first rebuild. The head is $200 per air bleed thing (1 per cyl), and other shit...
He is talking of gettin a modded pump, with different impeller, as apparently the petrol ones at high revs cavitate, thats the cause of the issues with air causing heads to overheat then go bang. But thats more $100's.[/quote]
I found a fair bit of electrolysis where the aluminium front cover mated to the front plate on mine during the re-build. It was so bad that getting the front cover off was pretty difficult-- I also found some very bad pitting in some of the surface surrounding the water pump impeller in the front cover suggesting some cavitation occurred at some stage. Make sure there is an earthing strap from the aluminium parts to steel. Allow some time for air bubbles to clear after filling.
Nick
He is up for $2000 so far for the head. Poor prick is broke from the first rebuild. The head is $200 per air bleed thing (1 per cyl), and other shit...
He is talking of gettin a modded pump, with different impeller, as apparently the petrol ones at high revs cavitate, thats the cause of the issues with air causing heads to overheat then go bang. But thats more $100's.
[/quote]
Nick, if you haven't got your front cover on yet and you need any welding to fill any pit marks, let me know and I may be able to weld it for you.
As for cavitation, a good test for the coolant you buy is to give it shake in the shop and select the coolant in which the bubbles quickly settle down, as these coolants are the best for resisting cavitation.
Regards Andrew.
As for cavitation, a good test for the coolant you buy is to give it shake in the shop and select the coolant in which the bubbles quickly settle down, as these coolants are the best for resisting cavitation.
Regards Andrew.
[/quote]Woop wrote:I found a fair bit of electrolysis where the aluminium front cover mated to the front plate on mine during the re-build. It was so bad that getting the front cover off was pretty difficult-- I also found some very bad pitting in some of the surface surrounding the water pump impeller in the front cover suggesting some cavitation occurred at some stage. Make sure there is an earthing strap from the aluminium parts to steel. Allow some time for air bubbles to clear after filling.
Nick
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
Thanks very much for the offer of that Andrew--I've actually put everything back together and all seems to be ok so far. Basicly, the 2 long studs that hold the aluminuim cover to the front engine plate had 'welded' themselves to the bores in the casing. Finally freed them and had the front cover plate (steel) sandblasted then powder coated,--this in combination with the sandblasting cured the small amount of pitting in the steel plate, after which i checked it with s traightedge and all was ok. I ended up putting the aluminium cover on a large sguare flat oilstone and gently removed the pitting then checked it again for 'true'
It seems that the 2 small o-rings that seal the coolant passages are very marginal, but so far seems ok. I used loctite antisieze on the studs on re-assembly. I'm using Castrol Diesel Pre-mixed coolant. But i will try that test you suggested. I'll post some pics of the pitting.
Nick
It seems that the 2 small o-rings that seal the coolant passages are very marginal, but so far seems ok. I used loctite antisieze on the studs on re-assembly. I'm using Castrol Diesel Pre-mixed coolant. But i will try that test you suggested. I'll post some pics of the pitting.
Nick
Gotta admit it wasn't my original idea Bruce. I got the info of are.com.au and gave it a try when I was buying coolant for my new radiator. Trouble is, wouldn't you know that the best coolant for resisting cavitation is also the most expensive damn it.
Regards Andrew.
Regards Andrew.
bogged wrote:awill4x4 wrote:As for cavitation, a good test for the coolant you buy is to give it shake in the shop and select the coolant in which the bubbles quickly settle down, as these coolants are the best for resisting cavitation.
Regards Andrew.
How simple is that! Good thinkin 99!!
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
awill4x4 wrote:Gotta admit it wasn't my original idea Bruce. I got the info of are.com.au and gave it a try when I was buying coolant for my new radiator. Trouble is, wouldn't you know that the best coolant for resisting cavitation is also the most expensive damn it.
Regards Andrew.
might go give mine a shake... :( still havent changed it, but did grease 1 wheel bearing today LMAO lazy prick I is
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests