Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok anyone thats been following my build up knows that ive just taken it for a roadworthy now i need some info

are the rear drums supposed to be loosened off so they can be removed or should i just be able to remove them without ajusting the brakes??

will the standard steering colum be fine with a 1.5" body lift my steering colum has been hacked and modified so im not sure if its been relocated but ive gotta replace it for the rwc

front swivel hubs are leaking from the rear i got nfi what these comprise of but i can get a new felt kit is that all i should need to stop it leaking or is there more too it

the rest of my problems seem to be easy repairs so ioll leave it at that for now

cheers
pcman

drums on my bj have a spring and arm in place to stop unadjusting and is fiddly to disengage..i use a screw driver to lever off in emergency or use a ratched to wind 2xhigh tensile steel bolts into the tapped holes in drum. yes my brake srouds look nasty.

steering shaft not sure, what do you mean by hacked

i can help with swivel hub seals
kit is a good start - do you want to completely rebuild or just replace the seals ... i will try find a sweet pdf i found last week... stay tuned

if want to do yourself and would like help pm me

S18

and ps i reckon i've never slipped my drums off without letting off adjustment...

you should be able to remove the drums without having to ease of the wheel cylinders.

they can be very farkn tight if they have not been off in a long while.

i have replaced all my brake drums and half the wheel cylinders.. i can give you a hand if you like...

scotto.. im also looking at swivel hub rebuild,, post the link to the pdf when you find it..

maybe you should not have degreased your driveway/garage

you will have lips on your drums and will need to back off the adjustment.
possible cause is driving mud heaps! wears into drums.
if steering has been cut and welded should be replaced.
leaking sweivel hubs should be the small axle seal leaking and over filling
the hub with diff oil
.[quote][/quote]

Repco has a swivel hub rebuild kit with all the felt washers, bearings, shims etc etc that you need. Its a fairly simple job, go and buy a manual and follow it step by step and you should be OK. Should take for a first timer 2-3 hours a side I would imagine ??

cheers guys thanks for the help
the steering colum where it mounts to the firewall has had the standard bracket cut off it and a 6mm plate welded to it for some farken reason i spottted it but had nfi why its been done im pretty sure ill be able to get a standard steering colum from the wreckers near me they had 2 40's that they where wrecking last time i was there

i was looking at offroadshop.com.au and spotted
REPAIR KIT, STEERING KNUCKLE TOYOTA LANDCRUISER FJ40 Price: $168.93
http://parts.offroadshop.com.au/images/ ... es/SH3.jpg

im sure my local parts place can get the same in and im guessing that will do what i need it to and more they also had a few seal kits but i figure while its apart might as well do it properly

looks like im up for new drums on the rear then ill have too see how big the lip is and see if i can get them machined first anyone got a good 2ndhand set

cheers
pcman

try here for prices for a whole shitload of parts.. i found it the other day..


http://pricebook.donkyatt.com.au/

$102.38
for the SH3

thats a awesome link ill use that alot cheers

well ive ordered a sh2 hub rebuild kit for the 1975-79 fj40 so hope that is what mine is cause its a 75 with disk brake cheaper than elsewhere at $100 even also ordered brake shoes get these this afternoon
priced new drums at $130 each so ill go find some 2nd hand ones
im sure it will be ready for the 40 weekend

the_smoo wrote:try here for prices for a whole shitload of parts.. i found it the other day..


http://pricebook.donkyatt.com.au/

$102.38
for the SH3

That will definately be saved into the favourites

and typically nothing goes to plan the wreckers has sold both the fj40's that they where wrecking
anyone got a fj40 steering colum and a pair of decent rear drums

pcman wrote:the steering colum where it mounts to the firewall has had the standard bracket cut off it and a 6mm plate welded to it for some farken reason i spottted it but had nfi why its been done

when the body is lifted the column bracket at the dashboard, the fire wall and the steering box go out of alignment. You can get around this by packing up the steering box and fitting the bracket from a FJ55 to the dashboard.

let us know when you r gonna rebuild your knuckles, i will give you a hand if you like..

i gotta find out how to do it as well!

2car thanks for that im tempted to just remove the body lift if its gonna be a pain in the arse it will still be high enough toi clear the current tyres and prolly larger i beleive

smoo im not actually sure if im gonna rebuild them now ive spent the last hour degreasing and pressure washing the built up greas n crud off the hubs and taken it for a short drive in high4 with the hubs locked and there not leaking at all im gonna get a cov er note and go for a drive to a mates place tomorrow and see iof there leaking if its only a slight leak im gonna degrease it before i take it back to the rwc joint and hope they pass it i dont see the point in spending 100bux if its only a slow oil leak

i also degreased the front diff center it was just covered in built up grease n crud that i hadnt noticed but i know that it hasnt been dropping oil from the pinion so thats weird it was prolly fixed by the last owner but they didnt clean it

still in need for steering colum and rear drums might have to ring hall 4x4


o and the front guards where they attatch to the body/tub are they supposed to be bolted they claimed that they should be cause if you lean on them they move away from the body i just thought that was how they where

and will brake drums of any other landcruiser suit the fj40

You will need 1970 to 1979 FJ40, 45 or 55 front or rear drums. Drain all of the oil out of the front axle and don't use 4wd. That should slow the leaking down long enough to get your rego slip - just don't forget to re-fill it afterwards.

Here is a start -

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php

this has pics -

http://www.birfield.com/~morgan//tech/axle/index.html

I am waiting to hear from someone about getting some work done myself and depending on that I may be free-ish Sunday and am sure you are keen to do this for THE 40 REUNION so if you want a hand SING OUT LOUD or PM ME your details. No promises as this stage - but if you can work in a garage at night then ok too. The mrs is away this weekend so will be cruiser cruiser cruiser for me

mkay
scott

ps the hub retaining nuts are 54mm - i just made a socket that fits and am real keen to try it out
no more mallet and screwdriver

great links the one with pictures is awesome but now im scared what ive got ahead im sure i can stuff something up bigtime there lol looks very complicated ill send you a pm with some details you seem to know what your doing scotto so some knowledge would be good considering im on a tight budget and time is also tight

2 x AXLE SEALS = TEN BUCKS

you don't have to do it all

yeah but no point in pulling it all apart and only replacing 1 part like my parts store only ordering me 1 axle seal for the rear when you have to pull the diff center apart to get them out like im not gonna replace 2 4$ seals at the same time grrrr held me up another day cause they had to order another in

will a power steering colum from a fj45 fit a fj40 without power steering ??

been offered one from a guy on this board but need to know if it will fit first

the collumn will fit. But the shaft for the power steering one is a different length

i have just refurbished the drums all round on my FJ40 - 1973, including the handbrake. you will need to get the drums machined to suit the new shoes, including the handbrake set up if you have the older set up like me with it on the transfer case and not the rear axle.

i used a local supplier that totally cocked it up first time, machining out the drums and supplying the smaller shoes. there was no way the brakes would set up properly, with the pedal hitting the floor every time, the same as if they had not been machined. if you are getting second hand drums.. get the machiners to supply the shoes so they can provide oversize if needed. they will prolly do an exchange service.
i cant recomend the machining strongly enough, its only about 12 bux a corner.. and hopefully this will save you the amount of freaking about i had to go thru.

HTH

Rob

cheers for the info gonna take my drums and try to get em machined on monday im replacing the pads at the same time and have brought a standard set but if i have to i can get a oversize set

Hey, whilst on the drums.

I got Disk front, they ROCK! cant speak highly enough.

but my drums are crud!-rear

got a mate to help me do some work, he replaced everything (pads-shoes and the previously leaky cylinders in there) but couldnt get new/replaceable drums. the actual drums are a bit clapped out and the brakes had to be wound right out to touch them.

what do you recommend there? new drums??
what can i do to make it hold better on big hills??

and my handbrake is capoot! it leaks and doesnt work at all, whats a new or decent 2nd hand set up worth? and can the transfer mounted ones be beefed up? i hear nothing but bad reports.

cheers

DIRTY ROCK STAR wrote:
but my drums are crud!-rear

got a mate to help me do some work, he replaced everything (pads-shoes and the previously leaky cylinders in there) but couldnt get new/replaceable drums. the actual drums are a bit clapped out and the brakes had to be wound right out to touch them.

what do you recommend there? new drums??
what can i do to make it hold better on big hills??

and my handbrake is capoot! it leaks and doesnt work at all, whats a new or decent 2nd hand set up worth? and can the transfer mounted ones be beefed up? i hear nothing but bad reports.

cheers

hey DRS..
machine the drums and fit over size shoes. mine are awsome, been out today in the mud and wet.. worked great. i was going the disk front but baby forced a re think. am really pelased with drums now. do teh same for hand brake if on transfer too. used it on hills today, didnt budge an inch. without the OS shoes my pedal ALWAYS hit the floor.. and i had to pump 2 -3 times before anything happened. 5 mins after fitting os shoes to matched machined drums they were sweet.

is your handbrake handle on the floor or the dash?.. i converted mine to floor mount.

cheep as chips to machine drums, but the OS shoes are more exy than standards.

HTH

Rob

Hey Rob are the OS shoes available lots of places or do you go through a particular place? And you run same size drum yeah?
I have drum rear which $h!ts me - looking for a solution that is NOT rear disc conversion + trans brake...


40s

hi Scotto,
the guys that do the machining will be able to get the OS shoes. take your old ones in as they will/should do an exchange for a few bux off. they are about 8mm all up bigger on the DIA (ie both shoes) my drums where farked, but machineable.. they will let you know if they are beyond machining.. they are pretty cheap from breakers.. (read wreckers)

HTH

Rob,

cheers for that mate.

Yeah my handbrake is dash mounted. does nothing and the bastard leaks fluid. so its not the best. it makes driving steep stuff an issue.
the 2F naturally stalls then its issues to start it without rolling back im sure ya know what i am saying.

Hmmm, i might have to look into machining the drums then.
got a mate who works at a 4x4 spares and wreckers who is on the lookout for some nice new meaty drums but he said they arent too easy to come by for low $.

cheers. so the handbrake is the same go, bigger shoes hey??

DRS..
i also had that useless set up of dash mounted handbrake. i got a floor mounted handle for 15 bux from the wreckers and mounted it up onto the seat frame. took me about an hour to make up the frame and i modified the stock cable to suit. I have posted this info in this thread

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ht=mechman

i have detail drawings of the frame and details of the cable mods if you'd like that i can email to you.

you say the handbrake leaks fluid?.. mine is just cable operated.. and works really well on hills.
imagine this.. when i got it there was no booster fitted!!!!... hills where a no no unless i knew i was going up without stopping..lol

i have a 253 and as yet havent had any issues with stalling.. but tis early days for me yet.. only on/off the road a month...lol

umm, just realised.. no pics... let me know your addy and i can email some pics of the set up if interested.

Rob