Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Sorry Guys,

I have read the threads about removing CV Joints, but I am not understanding fully, due to my lack of knowledge of all parts included.

I will be out removing these tomorrow, however I had a look at them on the weekend. I undid the 6x10mm nuts on the free-wheeling hub, but it doesn't come out. It moves about 8mm outwards but that is it.

I then went about undoing as many other nuts/bolts as I could but to no avail. WHAT AM I MISSING THERE...?


Cheers,

Meldge

Also being the same model of car, does anybody have a spare/unused, 40/45 Series Windscreen Surrounds (with or without glass). I have my windscreen sitting upright and being the 73 Series, it is very tall, the 40 Series is a lot shorter and I would like to size it up for fitment.


Meldge

I think I might have found the reason, On these Hubs (un-like the instructions i read for a hilux) there are 6 Allen Key grub screws that I need to remove.

The switch for the hubs also has WARN written on them, is this normal or are they better than standard?


Meldge

Remove the front of the hub (allen keys) then you will need to remove the cir-clip on the axel (may need circlip removers) then you should be able to follow your instructions

Hope that helps

The CV your pulling on is bigger than the hole your pulling it through. You need to dissasemble you hub completely untill all that's on the diff is the swival housing

you would have not removed the outer c-clip.

remove that, the free wheeling hub will slide right off.

remove the lock nut, the lock washer, the adjustment nut. These are large 54mm nuts..


The whole hub should now come off easy. watch the outer bearing doesnt pop onto the floor. There should also be a claw washer in front of the outer bearing.

Then undo all the bolts that go through the backing plate to the spindle.
Remove the backing plate. Grab a rubber mallett, tap the side of the spindle a coupla times and pull the spindle out..

axle will be sitting there covered in gumpta. rotate it so that the two flat spots are top and bottom and pull.. voila..

i only did this job on the weekend.. its easier than you think..

We also did it on the weekend at the Alpine challenge. All of the above is correct but it also depends on whether you have disc or drum brakes as you will need to remove them to access the spindle bolts.

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php

this has pics -

http://www.birfield.com/~morgan//tech/axle/index.html

Thanks guys, i figured that might have been the case, it started raining so i did not keep going...

I am heading out now, i dont have a 54mm socket, try a big screwdriver, I am not too concerned about all the parts, mainly want the centres, might keep axle ends, as going into a 60 Series diff, the rest is too short.

Thanks again, let you know how i go...


Meldge

Got them out, only took a few hours (with the flu)

There were the Allen Keyed Grub Screws that were the problem. Then when trying to break the seals on the rear axle ends i snapped a couple of the studs off, and that burred the edges, therefore i could not get the cone washers off, then had to use a smash the rest of them off.

Got there in the end, they are not LSD's, just open centres, but still good for spares, or bartering.

Thanks Again,


Meldge

Meldge wrote:Got them out, only took a few hours (with the flu)

There were the Allen Keyed Grub Screws that were the problem. Then when trying to break the seals on the rear axle ends i snapped a couple of the studs off, and that burred the edges, therefore i could not get the cone washers off, then had to use a smash the rest of them off.

Got there in the end, they are not LSD's, just open centres, but still good for spares, or bartering.

Thanks Again,


Meldge

wouldnt a whole diff be better for bartering O_O

Possibly would but a mate is scrapping the car for me, so I just left all of the heavy shite in there.

I could use open centres as spares while having LSD rebuilt if and when they break, could even barter them for services and or parts...

[quote="Meldge"] i dont have a 54mm socket, try a big screwdriver,
Meldge[/quote

go to an exhaust shop and get an off cut big enough - so that the corners of each of the adjusting nuts just touch

mark the pipe where the corner of the nut touches with a nikko

then get your grinder out and shave notches where the corners of adjusting nuts touch so that you can actually drop the nut n between the notches and there you have a home made 54mm socket

it took me half an hour and is prob the best thing ever suggested to me to try and make as i am always in there and find it a right pain in the coite using mallet and hammer to tighten bearing nuts

or go spend 80 bucks on a pipe wrench...

That is a good idea, I like it. I wouldn't have seen it too hard to tighten back up, unless worried about tightness, as they were extremely easy to come off.

Meldge

i bought the "wheel bearing adjusment tool" aka BFS from don kyatts last week for 28 bucks..

the_smoo wrote:i bought the "wheel bearing adjusment tool" aka BFS from don kyatts last week for 28 bucks..

Yeah I paid $15 for mine at a 4wd wrecker / parts joint.

yeh just buy (or borrow) a 54mm socket(tube spanner?)!

i got mine from the offroad fishing and camping show, $15

it didnt have a socket connection on the back, had a bar throughg the back of it, so i welded a plate and socket to the back of it so n ow i can use my old mans tension wrench on it.

the_smoo wrote:
i bought the "wheel bearing adjusment tool" aka BFS from don kyatts last week for 28 bucks..


Yeah I paid $15 for mine at a 4wd wrecker / parts joint.

ive no doubt i could sell it on ebay to some chimp for 50 bucks