Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Factory Locker...Wizard Bolt In A frame rear....
Factory Locker...Wizard Bolt In A frame rear....
HOwdy all,
I am still contemplating swapping my $h!tty rear drum A$$ end over to a disc brake rear before whacking in lockers. After some opinions.
I have found a chappy who has a complete rear housing w/ factory locker. So obviously this means I gain a locker and disc brakes at the same time and it may work it a little cheaper than a rear air locker installation.
I can justify the factory locker idea a) safter better brakes b) get locker at same time.
But I could also just leave my drum rear whack in an air locker, do the same up front, and have the brakes properly adjusted and just well leave it........A chappy I wheel with has this setup on his LWB GQ and it works gosh darn fine.
Let's say the old man and I can Fab up some big hunk of shite to protect the exposed diaphragm on the back of the factory locker. What can go wrong with these things. ? Does anyone have any wiring diagrams. ?
Basically I can either go Factory locker + Fr locker or leave the drum rear put in r locker and go fr locker as well...
Help...
I am still contemplating swapping my $h!tty rear drum A$$ end over to a disc brake rear before whacking in lockers. After some opinions.
I have found a chappy who has a complete rear housing w/ factory locker. So obviously this means I gain a locker and disc brakes at the same time and it may work it a little cheaper than a rear air locker installation.
I can justify the factory locker idea a) safter better brakes b) get locker at same time.
But I could also just leave my drum rear whack in an air locker, do the same up front, and have the brakes properly adjusted and just well leave it........A chappy I wheel with has this setup on his LWB GQ and it works gosh darn fine.
Let's say the old man and I can Fab up some big hunk of shite to protect the exposed diaphragm on the back of the factory locker. What can go wrong with these things. ? Does anyone have any wiring diagrams. ?
Basically I can either go Factory locker + Fr locker or leave the drum rear put in r locker and go fr locker as well...
Help...
Last edited by JemmyBubbles on Sat Sep 18, 2004 12:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]





I am aboot to go and buy the rear housing with the factory locker in it and all the goodies that come w/ it... MMmmm hope ratios are the same so I don't gotta do much : ) But they aren't most Ti's were 3.9 me thinks ???... and my little DX shorty is... 4.11

Any help with wiring the thing up would be tops. It seems as though the two solenoids are missing from the firewall on the wrecked vehicle I am aquiring this thing from.. So basically the wiring is gonna be a bastardised jobbie so some kind of help would be tops.
I aint ever played with vaccum before


Drop me an email please with any help...
Ideas for a diaphragm gaurd as well would be tops
at
JemmyBubbles@hotmail.com
CHEERS
Jeremy
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Does a drum rear locker spline fit the disc brake rear end axles? what do you have to change diff centre wise? Iv'e got a ARB locker in the rear and plan to go to disc's sometime in the future. i put the locker in cos i had to remove the diff centre for bearing change anyway. Do i need to buy a new locker when i go to disc's or can they work together?
JemmyBubbles wrote::x Fine don't help![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
I am aboot to go and buy the rear housing with the factory locker in it and all the goodies that come w/ it... MMmmm hope ratios are the same so I don't gotta do much : ) But they aren't most Ti's were 3.9 me thinks ???... and my little DX shorty is... 4.11![]()
Any help with wiring the thing up would be tops. It seems as though the two solenoids are missing from the firewall on the wrecked vehicle I am aquiring this thing from.. So basically the wiring is gonna be a bastardised jobbie so some kind of help would be tops.
I aint ever played with vaccum beforeI have a fairly good auto elec. mate who ows me a few favours so that could help..
![]()
Drop me an email please with any help...
Ideas for a diaphragm gaurd as well would be tops
at
JemmyBubbles@hotmail.com
CHEERS
Jeremy
We looked at a mates factory locker and worked out it wouldn't take much to replace the vacumn actuator with a short stroke air ram.
His factory diff lock switch has a common and an output for each solenoid for each direction. It would not be hard to use a solenoid from pneumatics specialists like SMC, MasterMac or Festo that normally operate in one direction (locker off) unless it receives 12Volts then changes to the other direction (locker on).
Pat,
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
Brisbane, Australia,
JK 4door Rubicon, currently 4 Sale :(
It's a Jeep thing, I don't understand........
mmmmmmmmmm....
Interesting.....
When I break this stuff I will try that
Cheerz,
Any Pics ne one..
When I break this stuff I will try that

Cheerz,
Any Pics ne one..
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
I have the fact Diff lock in my '89 LWB. Apart from the odd solenoid burning out, it works very well and has given no problem. I have wacked the actuater in mine extreamly hard and its pretty badly bent but locker still engages/disengages fine. If he's selling you the locker, make sure you get the solenoid pack(located on the passengers side of the firewall in the engine bay) the switch, and the lockout module (located behind the center part of the dash, above the ashtray. You also need the vacuum tank to go with it as well as all the associated piping.
Nick
Nick
Yes please
I have been fairly lazy w/ chasing this up...
The car I am getting it out of is fairly well wrecked out. The rear housing w/ locker is still there and some of the vaccuum piping...
I would be bastardising the wiring. Please please give me as many pics as you can I am on broadband so load up
I would be much easier if it were 4.11 gears straight up cause then it is bolt n play. Gonna go check all this out today....
Cheerz...
Jeremy
The car I am getting it out of is fairly well wrecked out. The rear housing w/ locker is still there and some of the vaccuum piping...


I would be much easier if it were 4.11 gears straight up cause then it is bolt n play. Gonna go check all this out today....
Cheerz...
Jeremy
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
More on this matter...
Just a little concerned about clearance issues between the diaphragm and the panhard rod during suspension cycling.
My diff will be rotated back for a DC setup and I am guessing the space between the two will be a little less because of this as well.
Ne one played with those bolt in A frames that wizard performance make for the rear of GQs ??
My diff will be rotated back for a DC setup and I am guessing the space between the two will be a little less because of this as well.
Ne one played with those bolt in A frames that wizard performance make for the rear of GQs ??
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Re: Yes please
JemmyBubbles wrote:I have been fairly lazy w/ chasing this up...
The car I am getting it out of is fairly well wrecked out. The rear housing w/ locker is still there and some of the vaccuum piping...I would be bastardising the wiring. Please please give me as many pics as you can I am on broadband so load up
![]()
I would be much easier if it were 4.11 gears straight up cause then it is bolt n play. Gonna go check all this out today....
Cheerz...
Jeremy
Most of the wiring should already be there--it just may not be connected. There should already be connectors there for the difflock switch and the speed sensor module as well as the solenoid pack. The actuator is positioned right in the center of the diff housing--clearance shouldnt be a problem. Just make sure you get all the switches/solenoids/vac tanks as previosly mentioned.
Nick
ozy1 wrote:both drum and disc brake GQs have a 33 spline count and 1.31" shafts, but the the disc brake requires a RD17 where the drum model requires a RD24
the axles need to bottom out into the centre on the drum brake axle to get pre-load on the bearings. the disc brake axles can 'float'. that is the difference.
your panhard is probably gonna make love to the actuator box thing. you would want to measure that up pretty carefully before you commit to anything. stay away from a-frames or triangulated upper links unless you are prepared to change the lower links as well. otherwise you'll have all sorts of roll steer issues.
I have just D/C a fact locker ,no clearance problems.
The weak point on the nissan locker is the slide in lock ring.
Do Not Engage whilst wheel spinning.
They are slow to engage and sometimes you have to drive a slalom to get the coarse teeth to engage.
Just get a roll of brake pipe to run the lines.The vaccum tank pipe-work is different between the auto and manual.
J Top
The weak point on the nissan locker is the slide in lock ring.
Do Not Engage whilst wheel spinning.
They are slow to engage and sometimes you have to drive a slalom to get the coarse teeth to engage.
Just get a roll of brake pipe to run the lines.The vaccum tank pipe-work is different between the auto and manual.
J Top
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest