Outer Limits 4x4 Board

im sure this question must have been asked before but...

i know there is not arb locker

but get the impression that a factory locker is available in some markets, is this so?

and if it is has anyone sourced one? and finally are they worth sourcing?

thanks!

The factory lokcers for the Gen 3 were available in NZ. that might be your best bet for sourcing one.

As for the benefits , well until I had my front locker fitted (which BTW will fit your NP & is available from ARB) I would have said YES, but since having the front locker installed , I would say now to get the front locker first, as IMO that makes more improvement than the rear. Then if you are still not satisfied, try & source a rear locker.
cheers

i think a rear would be more useful, if you've pitched the front in the air its better then even bet that both rears are on the deck for pushing duties + thats where most weight will be if you've got a load on board... but... i was more interested to find out if the factory locker was "any good" functionally does it have any weaknesses?

ive got a couple of associates in NZ i might see if they can ask around...

Well, I have tested many spots on my property now with & without rear & front lockers on.

This has revealed one thing for sure. There has been NO occasion (yet) with the front locker only On that I have not been able to get thru.

Whereas on the other hand on the same spots the rear locker only has NOT been able to pull me thru.

ANyway the rear locker doesnt have any weaknessess that I have noticed

It runs at a lot less pressure than the ARB lockers & no doubt is probably a lot less trouble refitting than an ARB. That is for the non IRS rear ends anyway.

Your NP being IRS maybe a bit harder to fit, I dont know. But in any case it may be best to get the entire rear end, just to make sure you have all the bits & pieces.

Good luck with your search

contact wrote:i think a rear would be more useful, if you've pitched the front in the air its better then even bet that both rears are on the deck for pushing duties + thats where most weight will be if you've got a load on board... but... i was more interested to find out if the factory locker was "any good" functionally does it have any weaknesses?

ive got a couple of associates in NZ i might see if they can ask around...

In the instance you refer to, if both rear wheels are touching they are getting "some" traction with or without a locker. But with the front in the air, all torque is going to the raised wheel providing you with no pull what so ever (effectively only 2WD). With a front locker, at least one of your front wheels is helping the two back. (effectively 3WD - 50% increase in drive) Let's face it, there are few situations you'll rooster a back wheel before a front unless going downhill when you've got gravity on your side anyway.

To a certain extent I agree with most of the weight being on the back wheels but after being in a mates Paj on the weekend after fitting a front locker, definately money is better spent on the front first. That and the fact that the front is the most easily sourcable for you at the moment. Don't forget you've got an LSD in the back that's also going to help the rears keep turning.

thanks for that... i would have thought that the IRS rear would be a quick swap - especially if you got the whole thing... that is at least if its like the old datto 1600 (etc) a diff swap was not such a big deal - hence the idea of the factory rear sounds "easy"

Definitely a front locker makes more of an offroad improvment (especially if you have a rear lsd) than just a rear locker. I had a rear locker for 2 years before fitting the front Detroit and it made much more difference offroad than the rear one did.
There are a few Gen 3 models running around with front Detroits that go very well by all accounts and much better than a Gen 2 with just a rear locker.
The Gen 3 has a very good gear driven rear lsd so I'd be definitely going a front ARB first before tossing out that good lsd.
The IRS centre is like a salisbury type which should be an easy swap just depends if the CV's are the same length as the lsd version.

thnaks for that... perhaps a fornt only is the way to go...

when you say gear driven lsd is it a torsen?

It's not actually a Torsen brand lsd but works on a similar principle which is more effective than the previous clutch pack lsd's.
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/inte ... ro_05.html