Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Landcruiser MWB Soft Top 1986

Holden 5 litre or Chev 5.7 litre?
Manual or Auto ?

I am wanting to do a conversion. How have you guys done it, or would like to do it.


I would love some PRO's and CON's for your write ups.

Meldge

on a budget i would go the 5 litre and auto,money not a prob,i'd go the gen 111 with auto,less weight,no carby,but more bucks

Since the EFI Holden 5ltr was released in '87 they have never been a problem engine. They Suffer from low oil pressure at idle but it never causes a problem. I dont think there has ever been a more reliable V8 on the Australian Market. Parts are available everywhere. They dont suffer from heating problems,Cranks snapping or rods and pistons letting go.


I dont know why anyone would consider an engine that has had as bad a run as the Chev Gen 3 has. They say they have fixed all its problems now but these things are yet to be proven to last the distance.

Maybe in a few years my opinion may change but for now i would stick with Aussie Grunt even if it does weigh a little more.

i am a 5 litre man,had about 12 of them,but if someone put the two in front of me and said choose 1 and i didnt have money issues i would give the chev a go,but yeah the problems with the chev are an issue.doesnt seem to have stopped people buying v8 commodores though.

RUFF wrote:Since the EFI Holden 5ltr was released in '87 they have never been a problem engine. They Suffer from low oil pressure at idle but it never causes a problem. I dont think there has ever been a more reliable V8 on the Australian Market. Parts are available everywhere. They dont suffer from heating problems,Cranks snapping or rods and pistons letting go.


I dont know why anyone would consider an engine that has had as bad a run as the Chev Gen 3 has. They say they have fixed all its problems now but these things are yet to be proven to last the distance.

Maybe in a few years my opinion may change but for now i would stick with Aussie Grunt even if it does weigh a little more.

i totally agree with ruff . if i was to chose id run with the holden ,auto or manul its all good

What prolems are you having with them.
And is the Gen 111 the all alloy engine we know as the LS1, or are you including the cast block,alloy heads engine,the LT1
J Top

I wouldnt use a gen111, they cost a bit much and havent been here long enough.
The holden 304 is good, reliable, plenty of performance upgrades available locally, but that extra .7L would come in handy.
Stroking a 304 is an option...

But why not a 350 efi chev that isnt a gen111? or even a bigger chev? you can really never have too much torque

Cory

TPI LT1- 4L80E -205

Both engines are pretty tops. Most of the gen 111 probs have been sorted out and you can source new ones from the US for a reasonable price now (still expensive but better than what it used to be).

Holden 5L = Good low down torque, known reliability, plenty of spare parts, cheap to buy, Australian designed and built (although based on a chev)

Gen 111 = Can get good low down torque with a change of cam and still get more power than the holden 5L or 5.7L, spare parts are usually not an issue but can cost a bit more than the holden motors, expensive to buy.

My personal choice would be the gen 111 with a 4L-80E auto box(handles more torque standard but cost a fair bit) and will eventually get them when I get the funds. Then I would get a 427 stroker kit and top it off with a whipple supecharger ....

Make sure if you get a gen 111 it is not one of the early commodore ones otherwise you may be looking at a full rebuild.

mmm. GMH discontinued the 5.0ltr to make way for the 5.7ltr.

Personally the 5.7ltr VORTEC (steel block import chev not Holden) would be the go. They have been used in the US since 1996 in full size chevrolet/gmc trucks and SUVs.

They have prooven to be a very reliable engine that also responds well to bolt ons such as chips, exhausts, superchargers etc.

A number of places sell them such as Eagle Automotive, Yukon, Suburban Imports, West Coast Chev etc etc.

Re auto or manual, it depends on what you want to do. Myself in an offroad rig it would definitely be manual but if it was spending more of its life as a daily driver or tow rig i would go the 4L80E Chev auto.

These were used in Hummer H1's, Chev 2500HD and 3500 and are super tough and reliable.

There are aftermarket modules for programming of this auto as well, i can't remember who but can find out if you wish.

What about the V8 out of the Soarer isnt it? the one dude is puttin into a GQ.. 4.5-4.8ish ltr.. quad cam etc...

I thought the soarer was a 4.0ltr.

I had one (91 Soarer) a few weeks ago for a couple of days, maybe the gearing but it had nothing down low, once it got going was ok though.

Personaly I would use the Holden 5.7 (stroked 308)
THen the Chev 350 tpi.
Then Chev 350 vortex
THen LS1. G3.

http://www.cmr.uq.edu.au/~rotor/the_she ... is_rangie/
http://www.cmr.uq.edu.au/~rotor/the_shed/Rangemobile/

Michael.

from personal experience id highly recomend you to stroke an older chev and go the twin gas research carbs. doesnt cost alot to stroke a chev.

when i built my engine, the prices looked like this, new chev scat crank ~400 machining ~400. as opposed to a holden 5L crank ~1000 and there is alot more machining to fit the crank in a 5L.

personally i think gen 3s are crap. and a 427 would just be a more expensive peice of crap. a good stroker wont need a supercharger.

id prefer a manual over an auto anyday.

vitarajim wrote:I thought the soarer was a 4.0ltr.

I had one (91 Soarer) a few weeks ago for a couple of days, maybe the gearing but it had nothing down low, once it got going was ok though.

not sure what size it was. Lookin for it in the Nissan forum IUZsomething like that

It is my experience in these things that being different is asking for trouble Go with whatever is easiest on paper cause chances are even that will be a PITA

This is awesome, thanks for the info guys.

I will keep monitoring for PRO's and CON's as I still don't know which way to go.

Maybe a ???, I don't know which one to go for yet guys.

Maybe i need to go for a run in some cars that have done similar conversions.

I spoke to a lot of people b4 my conv. It sounded like the torque curve of the holden 5.0L was better than the Gen iii even though the outright power was not as much. This also meant that the fuel economy was a little better.

Quite a few people told me that EFI was too hard but the plumbing was all there, it only needed a pump and surge pot which was installed inside the tank (saab part i think)

My mechanic recommenedd the VN engine as they are a little easier to work with but essentially the same engine that was used until the gen iii came out.

To give you an idea on $$$: Engine + heavy duty clutch $3500 (can be done cheaper if you're patient) Exhaust 900 gas 1000 all up project was 10,000 of which labour was only 1,000 or so

PM if you want more detail... good luck

Thanks again guys.

Just to clear up, as I have looked into the Soarer engines aswell.
The 1UZ is a 4.0 Litre, Alloy Block Quad Cam V8.
There is also a 2UZ, it is a 4.7 Litre Cast Block, also Quad Cam.
I think there is now also a 3UZ, 3.4 Litre, not sure on block material, but it has more power than the above two.

Don't get me wrong guys I can drive a manual, BUT I would like an auto, just me, the car and two pedals to worry about. Currently have a manual box, and all is good, rather go the auto for now, than worry about the sourcing the H/D clutch and so on.

I want to play with a B&M Shifter, Pro Ratchet. To do this I would need a VN / VP V8 wouldn't I, (not electric shift???). Or are the gearboxes the same between all models (I thought they changed slightly when they hit either VR or VS.

Also the older engine VN / VS does not need all of the MEMCAL and Body Control Modules and so on for the conversion as I understand, so less time and money there aswell.

I would try to get VP, I have heard of VN's having troublesome engines, but that may be V6 only, can anyone verify this for me.


That is all I can think of for now, thanks again. Your input has been great. If anyone still wants to chat some pro's and con's I will still be listening.


Meldge

memcal can be altered to delete all non required items.

Aprox $150.00

plus reprogram for ggsss.

Michael.

i'm pretty sure the electronic 4 spd auto came with the series 2 vr,and the vn/vp 5 litres werent the problem engines,it was the v6 in the vn and series 1 vp

So are the Non Electronic 4 speed gearboxes i.e. early commodore V8's just a strong as the newer ones?

Also will I need a Fuel Pump? V8Middy mentioned a Saab Item...?

for an auto box, wouldnt you be going a turbo 350/400/700??

Don't the EFI 304's come with a T700 behind them as standard, I thought all the EFI 304's were T700, just the newer ones were electronic versions of them.

I won't want to be buying an adaptor to go between engine and gearbox, then another one from Gearbox to Transfer.

So my understanding is, EFI 304's come with T700, then I only need one adaptor to Tranny. Then of course engine mounts, Fuel Pump, B&M Shifter and so on.

[quote="Meldge"]Don't the EFI 304's come with a T700 behind them as standard, I thought all the EFI 304's were T700, just the newer ones were electronic versions of them.

yeah vn,vp are T700 autos

OKAY - Can anyone please verify this for me.

Sorry to keep asking, but like anyone else, I want to know what i'm doing before I do it. I could then run a thread on the install.

VN/VP - 304 - T700 ?
VR VS - 304 - 4L60E ?

Either one will still need the 'vehicle speed sensor'?

MEMCALs - Fitted to all engines as standard - can exchange with Marks Adaptors for $330, or re-programme the standard for Approx $150.


Meldge

Go with a VN or VP 5ltr the wiring is a lot eaasier and the Auto has no real electronic gear on it except the converter lock up which can simply be wired to a switch. If your not to concerned about Economy then the Speed Sensor isnt realy needed. There is a few places that are local that will be able to wire this up for you for around $300 tow in Drive out. You can use a VL comodore external fuel pump. But would prob need a surge tank with a smaller low pressure pump supplying this.

I ran my VL Calais with an injected 5ltr and no Speed sensor for years with no problem it just wasnt as good on fuel as it could have been.

Its not that hard to wire one of these up yourself if you have a little electrical understanding and a wiring diagram.

RUFF - Are you able to get wiring diagrams, (if not easily accessible by me) as I don't mind fiddling around with wiring. Although $300 for wiring, it does make it sound a little on the difficult side.

How much difference would you see in the fuel consumption if not to use one. It is a daily driver and I go bush every weekend so it might be a good idea for me to add one.

Your mentioning Converter Lockup on a switch. I was looking at getting a 'Lockup Convertor' what is the difference in what you have mentioned? That way I could get better economy, I understand a lockup torque convertor also gives you a little more power (less loss through drivetrain), but can it improve take off and acceleration at all.

How much would you see a speed sensor (wire yourself) costing? I see the Marks Speed Sensor comes with a Connecting Loom for $330, seems okay if people want to charge $300 to wire, but then again, if they only cost a minimal amount in parts, then it would be good to do yourself.

I just don't know where else to get some of these required bits and pieces from, therefore I only know the one price.


Meldge

Great to see all the interest in the V8s, love them. Problem is with juice at $1.10ltr, I could about afford to start it up, warm it up and then shut it down

Then again, if you can afford the GenIII, you can afford the juice to run it.

Nev62 wrote:Great to see all the interest in the V8s, love them. Problem is with juice at $1.10ltr, I could about afford to start it up, warm it up and then shut it down

Then again, if you can afford the GenIII, you can afford the juice to run it.

juice AND oil.

thats why i recon go straight gas.