I have thought of using different diffs under the zook, what have people done in this field??
I have thought of hilux and vitara. What needs to be done to fit hilux under a NT 85'
cheers
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
extending track
extending track
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Ahh...good old axles 
I've been doing a lot of research into the options available for planning the build up on my future zook. I think a lot of it depends on how much $$ you have available. If you wanted to build it in stages, say get it to 32s spoa etc, you'll probably put lockers/ratios etc in (I would at least as I'd want to be able to drive it), and then at a later stage if you want to go bigger and stronger it would probably be more effective to stay with a zook solution to keep existing parts..
Toys look like a great option but I dunno exactly how cheap they really are. You have to get the axles (and rebuild if required), drive shafts, adapt them to xfer and axles, worry about the off center rear (maybe cutdown an IFS rear, or look at a LC/Bundy axle but that = more weight and less clearance than even hilux diff and more $), less ground clearance, new ratios/lockers, brake lines, new x-over or histeer steering, even think about flares etc if you want to street it, that can all add up quickly..
If there was a "relatively" cheap, but descently strong zook axle solution, I'd go for it...
I've been doing a lot of research into the options available for planning the build up on my future zook. I think a lot of it depends on how much $$ you have available. If you wanted to build it in stages, say get it to 32s spoa etc, you'll probably put lockers/ratios etc in (I would at least as I'd want to be able to drive it), and then at a later stage if you want to go bigger and stronger it would probably be more effective to stay with a zook solution to keep existing parts..
Toys look like a great option but I dunno exactly how cheap they really are. You have to get the axles (and rebuild if required), drive shafts, adapt them to xfer and axles, worry about the off center rear (maybe cutdown an IFS rear, or look at a LC/Bundy axle but that = more weight and less clearance than even hilux diff and more $), less ground clearance, new ratios/lockers, brake lines, new x-over or histeer steering, even think about flares etc if you want to street it, that can all add up quickly..
If there was a "relatively" cheap, but descently strong zook axle solution, I'd go for it...
Murray i have been running 34" swampers on massively offset rims with NTs and a locked rear and 4.1 transfer case for about 2 years and haven't broken anything yet. I have just put a 6:1 transfer case in and will be testing it this weekend so we'll see but for Vic conditions the Sierra stuff has held up fine unless you 're into full throttle assaults on the tracks. Nice and slow works fine
Ransom note = demand + collage
I'd be looking to crawl (I love going slow..something I can't do now hehe) and will be doing as much rock playing as possible. So high grip driving would be the name of the game. I'm worried that with high traction, front locker, and zook axles the birfs will start going. Thought about rings but again, worried that will just move the weak point to the more expensive stuff, I'd rather break a birf than an R&P etc.. From what I've read, and what I saw at TT this year, 32s look like the safe limit, those with 33s were breaking stuff to easily for my liking.
And with the new Thorax coming out from Spidertrax in the US, I'd be looking to really crawl
And with the new Thorax coming out from Spidertrax in the US, I'd be looking to really crawl
grimbo wrote:Murray i have been running 34" swampers on massively offset rims with NTs and a locked rear and 4.1 transfer case for about 2 years and haven't broken anything yet. I have just put a 6:1 transfer case in and will be testing it this weekend so we'll see but for Vic conditions the Sierra stuff has held up fine unless you 're into full throttle assaults on the tracks. Nice and slow works fine
I totally agree with graham here.....it comes down to driving style...if u charge at stuff, or sit there spinning wheels etc, then you wil break stuff..simple..the slower the better, but at times u do need to go that extra bit harder....but not all the time
If u have wide track diffs then as far as i can see it is totally pointless going hilux diffs becuase uu r only getting an extra 2 inches width....
CAM
Posts: 3825
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 8:42 pm
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 8:42 pm
Location: in the sky , its a bird , its a plane ! No its super MOOSE !!!
I,ve been running 33" x 12.5",s for over 12 months, on & off road !!!
& sometimes I dont drive easy !! (something to do with standard gearing)
& I havent ever touched front diff , CV,s or axles !!!!!!
but have done 1 rear crown wheel !!!( took 1 tooth off !!)
& sometimes I dont drive easy !! (something to do with standard gearing)
& I havent ever touched front diff , CV,s or axles !!!!!!
but have done 1 rear crown wheel !!!( took 1 tooth off !!)
MissForbyNoob wrote:
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
and one day i'll just become a worthless housewife.
v8zuki,
Now what`s wrong with something that`s been tried and tested and works very well. Do I have to create something else from scratch, not tested not as strong , cost me a bucket load of cash, R & D just to satisfy your " original" theory that there are stronger and cheaper, with parts off the shelf ready to fit, not having to custom make everything just to be your original concept.
Do you think we`re going to break Hilux front ends with Snakes high-steer, longfield - super axles & CV `s, landcruiser 6.16/1 R&P, on Suzuki lightweight frame and bodies.
I hope you don`t think Overkills front end is his original idea.
Better still , you come up with the goods, do all the bull$h1t testing required and then show us your goods. Will it be as cheap as shelved Hilux gear and more importantly be readily avaliable at the nearest wrecker. I think not.
Now what`s wrong with something that`s been tried and tested and works very well. Do I have to create something else from scratch, not tested not as strong , cost me a bucket load of cash, R & D just to satisfy your " original" theory that there are stronger and cheaper, with parts off the shelf ready to fit, not having to custom make everything just to be your original concept.
Do you think we`re going to break Hilux front ends with Snakes high-steer, longfield - super axles & CV `s, landcruiser 6.16/1 R&P, on Suzuki lightweight frame and bodies.
I hope you don`t think Overkills front end is his original idea.
Better still , you come up with the goods, do all the bull$h1t testing required and then show us your goods. Will it be as cheap as shelved Hilux gear and more importantly be readily avaliable at the nearest wrecker. I think not.
yeah hilux axles work but why bother there is a lot more involved than just bolting them on. There are new driveshafts, brake issues, steering plus the added size of the pumpkin which means you have to go to a bigger tyre to clear and then you start breaking stuff. Plus they need to be narrowed to legally fit under the zuk unless you want big ass flares to cover them.
We had the LJ on 36s out last weekend and he was driving some absolutely nuts lines on way steep hills and broke a cv driving backwards up a near vertical wall. Prety much any kind of axle would have broken. But my point is the standard wide tracks handled the 36s, front & rear lockers, twin transfer cases and a vitara engine no problems
We had the LJ on 36s out last weekend and he was driving some absolutely nuts lines on way steep hills and broke a cv driving backwards up a near vertical wall. Prety much any kind of axle would have broken. But my point is the standard wide tracks handled the 36s, front & rear lockers, twin transfer cases and a vitara engine no problems
Ransom note = demand + collage
Bentzook wrote:v8zuki,
Now what`s wrong with something that`s been tried and tested and works very well. Do I have to create something else from scratch, not tested not as strong ,
I hope you don`t think Overkills front end is his original idea.
Better still , you come up with the goods, do all the bull$h1t testing required and then show us your goods. Will it be as cheap as shelved Hilux gear and more importantly be readily avaliable at the nearest wrecker. I think not.
I have never said that it was my original Idea I think I actually told everyone that it was the same as what the yanks do.
Where would the sport end up if no-one tried or built anything that was different. And yes I am prepared to do all the testing and R&D as have the diff infront of my ZOOK now. Obviously a custom diff is going to be more expensive than an off the shelf item. As for the strength isue time will tell but most would say You can make a Dana 44 axle and uni joint stronger than a Hilux one ,Longfeilds or not.
Also the hybrid diff has more ground clearance.
Anyway each to there own
OVERKILL ENGINEERING
www.overkill4x4.com
www.overkill4x4.com
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest